[randomguy]

Instead of connecting my power wire to the positive battery post, can I connect it to the fuse box?

You can see in my pictures the main positive wire comes off the battery and splits, one routes else where and the routes to the fuse box.

There is minimal room at the battery post, so it may be easier here at the fuse box. I just wasn’t sure if it was safe or could have issues, like voltage drops, etc.

Thanks
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[seafish]

IMO, in making that decision, the ONLY consideration that you will have to take is if the existing wire going to the fuse box has the rated overall ampacity as well as specific current carrying ability to power ALL of your cars functions AND your new stereo system at the same time.

If that wire IS large enough to safely to do so ... you are good to go !!!

If it isn't, you could potentially upgrade the size of the wire running from the battery to fuse box so that it has the required amoacity and current caring abiltityand then connect the wire running to your new stereo systems distribution block to the fuse box. Do NOT forget to properly size BOTH the wire and the fuse that run to your stereo power distribution block.

Whether or not using the above method is easier then simply attaching a new wire and fuse to the battery for the new stereo system will be up to you to judge.

All that said, adding powerful 12v accessories like stereos systems to a vehicle is inherently dangerous and you risk vehicle damage and even total loss if your auxiliary wiring is not designed AND installed properly.

Just my .02

 

[seafish]

Of course, adding more details as to the wattage requirement s of your new stereo amplifiers, as well as the existing wire gauge size and lenght, would let people here help you more, and more importantly, more safely

 

[randomguy]

Of course, adding more details as to the wattage requirement s of your new stereo amplifiers, as well as the existing wire gauge size and lenght, would let people here help you more, and more importantly, more safely

I would be running a Kicker Key 500.1
But most likely would be running at 2 ohms for 300x1, but could move to 1ohm for 500watts I the future. I was thinking 8ga but considering 4ga , from battery to trunk where the amp is , about 15 ft

 

[Chriswilkin22]

8 gaugee is fine assuming it's truly 8 gauge and coality cabling. The knuconceptz 8 gauge kolossus is fine for that amp.

 

[riceandpho]

undo the cover completely, see how the factory wire attach on the battery terminal, you might just want to bend a ring terminal at the battery post area if you can't do anything after that.

 

[96jimmyslt]

Remove factory terminal. Cut wire just after factory ring terminal. Add new battery terminal that fits factory wire size. Add new power wire for amplifier in new battery terminal.

Knu konceptz even has a terminal that will retain the factory connection - no cutting required.

Ultimate Positive Battery Terminal - Merchandise

www.knukonceptz.com

Vertical Top Post Adapter Pair - Merchandise

www.knukonceptz.com

Top Post Adapter - Positive - Merchandise

www.knukonceptz.com

 

[96jimmyslt]

But yeah lets see what's under that other cover first.

 

[mumbles]

I have never connected a power cable directly to the fuse block but have heard several stories where doing that caused issues with the ECM. I’d imagine that behavior would be based on how the rest of the electrical system tied in and how much of the car is run by the ECM… think older car = less electronics, etc…

 

[randomguy]

I couldn’t get the red cover off but found video screenshots of others that did.

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[Theslaking]

There's likely a nut and bolt at that 90° under that plastic. Tie in there.

 

[96jimmyslt]

Wow....a 90° bend with about 3 inches of metal? They really don't want people swapping to an aftermarket battery terminal do they lol. (It looks like it would be too short to cut and then stretch?)

I think your best bet would be the knu konceptz factory retaining battery terminals., assuming you can't stretch that wire enough.

You might also be able to completely replace the positive wire. Up to you.

 

[Jroo]

use one of the options listed above. Do not tap into the fuse box for power wire. A couple of years back, my son has a trailblazer. It has a large fuse box under the rear seat and several have tapped into that versus running from the battery. While researching, I found several posts and pics of people that had significant issues from doing so. The installer I trust said never do it. Just do it right the first time.

 

[JohnnyOhh]

wouldn't the right-right way be to find the alternator and add power & ground wire runs directly to the alternator post/ground?

 

[96jimmyslt]

wouldn't the right-right way be to find the alternator and add power & ground wire runs directly to the alternator post/ground?

I don't think so. You want the amplifiers to be able to get power from the alternator and the batteries.

If it were an 18v alternator dedicated to an 18v amp, then yes, direct to alt or something (spl)

 

[humandrummachine]

I don't think so. You want the amplifiers to be able to get power from the alternator and the batteries.

If it were an 18v alternator dedicated to an 18v amp, then yes, direct to alt or something (spl)

I've read that the reason you want to connect to batteries is because they act like a sink for AC ripple that could make its way to the amp otherwise. Doesn't matter for DC voltage, you'll actually get less voltage drop if you "shorten" the lengths of the wires between the amp/alternator/battery since they are the same point electrically for DC.

I've had my power wire connected directly to the alternator for a year now with no problems.

 

[japjoe7]

Here is how I had mine setup when I had an accord.

 

[JohnnyOhh]

i think although connecting to the oem vehicle starting battery is commonly done (and it works okay-good most of the time) ... it is not the best way to do the job. the right way to do the job is to run separate +12V and Ground wires from/to the source of power/truth, which is the alternator. This way all other electrical systems should be unaffected by the aftermarket audio system current draw.

if you are pulling current from the oem vehicle starting battery (with the vehicle on & running), then the system is probably not sized correctly for the alternator in the vehicle. you should consider adding a secondary battery near the audio equipment to supply current to the audio system. i think this concept also shows true in people's comments above wrt running power from the fuse box.... if you draw large current this can create voltage offsets in the vehicle that can affect other systems. again, i'm not saying it will not work,.... but it is not the right way to do the job.

the reality is (and i have done it myself many times.... but trying to get better)... it is usually easier to physically connector to the battery, so it is the way it is most commonly done. but it really is not the right way to do the job. it is cheaper & easier tho... which is hard to ignore in the real world.

I don't think so. You want the amplifiers to be able to get power from the alternator and the batteries.
If it were an 18v alternator dedicated to an 18v amp, then yes, direct to alt or something (spl)

 

[humandrummachine]

The battery + post and the alternator + are electrically the same for DC. If you connect to the alt you're just bypassing the voltage drop from the OEM alt-to-battery wire. And when voltage drops to battery voltage then you start pulling current from the battery and through that OEM alt/batt wire again.

 

[humandrummachine]

Made this fancy diagram lol... if you make the wires extremely short, the positive connections end up being the same point.