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Discussion Starter #1
I've been searching and i'm still a bit confused. I'm planning out my 2 way active setup using a pair of Hybrid audio 6.5 Clarous for the first time and still not quite sure about the power for the tweeter. I have read that a tweeter needs lil and too much power. I've seen ppl claim that an amp will only use 15% of the amps power so if i was to use a jl audio 300/2 and set it to draw "150 rms" to each tweeter 15% of that is 22.5 rms watts so if i'm understanding correctly i should be fine or am i over powering? I'm planning to throw 200 rms watts (from a bridged hd600/4)to each mid driver with the xover point at 63hz. these watts seem a lil high, but it's what Scott mentioned in a post "Properly crossed-over, 75 watts to the tweeters and 200 watts to the midbass" @ Buwalda Hybrids International Bulletin Board • View topic - Power Handling for Clarius running active? as far as protecting the tweeter he suggested a 8 uf capacitor. besides the fact that this capacitor is supposed to protect the tweeter what pro's and con's is there? Feedback would be great i'm trying to do this without blowing anything up. thanks
 

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Let's see if we can't shave the understanding of how things go here, right quick.-
The wording of the message is all misconstrued here dude...

1st, all your info is wrong. Scratch all that, its only confusing you.
Lets begin with, you can put that tweeter on a 10,000 watt channel and run it forever without problems.

2nd, its the responsibility of the user to determine what the active XO provided for the 2 way system, and begin there with your active tuning.

A easy way to clarify a safety factor in tuning the tweeter would be to suggest the crossover point to cut 18dB at 10kHz. This would be a safe point to start from using a 10kw(potentially) channel. Yet possibly the furthest from the correct values.

Prior to going active, you need to understand what the (#)dB cut means,(this is the slope) and where along the spectrum 10kHz is(this is the cross over point). This is what a advanced user, one who is competent to tune a active system, would have in mind while tuning.

The 8uf cap creates a mathematical equation.(_dB @ __kHz). This equation as well as the idiotic 15% tweeter power malarky, are values that will be different in every system.

You ARE better off understanding what you're doing, rather than grabbing at straws.

Your study guidelines could include: Cross over slope- frequency response- attenuation- power handling capacities- reciprocal proportion.

Too much more info would be starting to do your homework for you... If you get me on that... Your homework knowledge will rephrase the way your questions and asked, which can direct your answers closer to the advice you're lookin for...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Let's see if we can't shave the understanding of how things go here, right quick.-
The wording of the message is all misconstrued here dude...

1st, all your info is wrong. Scratch all that, its only confusing you.
Lets begin with, you can put that tweeter on a 10,000 watt channel and run it forever without problems.

2nd, its the responsibility of the user to determine what the active XO provided for the 2 way system, and begin there with your active tuning.

A easy way to clarify a safety factor in tuning the tweeter would be to suggest the crossover point to cut 18dB at 10kHz. This would be a safe point to start from using a 10kw(potentially) channel. Yet possibly the furthest from the correct values.

Prior to going active, you need to understand what the (#)dB cut means,(this is the slope) and where along the spectrum 10kHz is(this is the cross over point). This is what a advanced user, one who is competent to tune a active system, would have in mind while tuning.

The 8uf cap creates a mathematical equation.(_dB @ __kHz). This equation as well as the idiotic 15% tweeter power malarky, are values that will be different in every system.

You ARE better off understanding what you're doing, rather than grabbing at straws.

Your study guidelines could include: Cross over slope- frequency response- attenuation- power handling capacities- reciprocal proportion.

Too much more info would be starting to do your homework for you... If you get me on that... Your homework knowledge will rephrase the way your questions and asked, which can direct your answers closer to the advice you're lookin for...

Just great, I'll have to do some homework then. So those thing you listed are where i should start, any other topics i should look into after I check out those that you suggested? I'm a noob trying to learn something new which is car audio. thanks a lot!
 

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I am sure you would rather he just do the install and set up for you too.

Lanarian is doing you a favor by having you learn how it all works.

Put in the time and the rest will make more sense because it doesn't all end at your last question.

This is diyma after all.

Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm probably better off taking my vehicle to the audio shop. What tool does a shop normally use to adjust a head unit? My head unit is a Eclipse CD7000. They'll be adjusting my 2 way + subwoofer active setup. I'd like to know so if i decide to go to the shop i have an idea on what they 're going to use/do.
 
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