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Hey guys, quick question. I've lurked on this forum a lot, but never posted. This thread gave me the final push to buy these speakers. When I first installed them, I got a little nervous because even crossed at 150, the midbass would pop on bass heavy tracks, but after 2 weeks, I'm down at 100 and they sound great. I think they just needed to break in.

Before I ask my question, I'll just get all this out of the way:

I used 12gauge speaker wire, straight to the spring terminals on the midbass, used female connectors on the 3" mid, and butt connectors to go to the 16gauge wire on the tweeters. I'm powering them using a Kenwood KAC-8401. I have my rear speakers and these speakers wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load and the amp is bridged to 250watts x 2 @ 2ohms. The amp is high passed at 100. I'm using the passive crossovers. My headunit is a pretty cheap Pioneer (upgrading this next) and is totally flat on the EQ except for loudness on high (these are in a convertible, it just helps with the sound with the top down) but the problem happens with it off as well. I've also tried playing with both settings on the crossover to no avail.

Okay, so the only problem I'm having is that I listen to an incredibly wide variety of music. Acoustic, Indie, Emo, Piano-pop, most rap, etc sound amazing! But whenever I listen to hardcore or punk bands (no matter if they're poor production quality or major label bands) I get this horrific sound from the tweeters when the guitar plays (it's usually only heard when the guitar rings out.) It will happen at the same parts every song, so I know there is a possibility it might be on the recording, but it just happens on too many songs for that to seem feasible. It happens with both mp3's at 320kbps as well as FLAC files. The weird thing is, I've isolated them as my tweeters because when I disconnect them the noise goes away. However, I just realized, if I take the tweeter and hold it up to my ear, I can't hear the noise, as soon as I move it maybe 6" away, I hear it again. I've tried placing it right near the mid, as well as angled up towards the windshield, towards me, in a door location, no dice. Could this be a phase issue? Is it most likely in the recordings? Are my tweeters blown? So confused, this is my first "complex" install so there is the possibility I did something wrong and don't know it.
 

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Discussion Starter #562
I told Ryan to log on and chime in. I am thinking maybe something resonating in the car.

How loud/noticeable is it??
Does it sound like crackeling, hiss, ? Try to describe the noise a little more.

Does it do it on the left and right or just one side?? If just one side.swap tweeters and see if the sound changes sides.


Try it with the back speakers unhooked from the amp.
 

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Thanks for the quick response! Originally I just had the front ones hooked up, so that doesn't make a difference.

It is a horrid crackeling noise. It only happens when like there is a build up on the toms on drums, or a distorted guitar rings out a power chord, very specific instances.

Both sides do it equally at the same times. I tried a different amp, so I know it's not the amp. If I actually hold the tweeter and move it, it consistently makes it until it is RIGHT at my ear. Even at low volumes. As soon as it's more than a few inches away from my ear it'll make it again. It's not constant at all in the sense that it is always making it. But it seems like certain frequencies will trigger it. It happens at very similar parts of different songs, and always the same time, only when very distorted guitars are ringing out or like certain drum fills. I've rechecked the wiring at least 10 times, everything is wired correctly but it makes the same crackling noise as if wires were loose and not making great contact.

I tried lowering the gain to 25% and I set the gains originally with a DMM. The music isn't distorted so I don't think it's clipping. I've done a few installs but nothing like a 3 way. I haven't hooked my subs up yet because I wanted to make sure everything was running smooth on this end. Does it still sound like a phase issue and if so is there any possible way you could point me in the direction of some info on how to fix it?

I really appreciate the response!
 

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The crossovers are mounted on opposite sides of my trunk and I ran the left wires to the left one and the right wires to the right one, so it' impossible they got swapped. I double checked the wire on both tweeters though, I have gold to gold and silver to silver on the tweeter side and gold to positive and silver to negative on all connections of each crossover. Wiring is definitely good. And I'm a little bit north of Boston, MA.
 

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The crossovers are mounted on opposite sides of my trunk and I ran the left wires to the left one and the right wires to the right one, so it' impossible they got swapped. I double checked the wire on both tweeters though, I have gold to gold and silver to silver on the tweeter side and gold to positive and silver to negative on all connections of each crossover. Wiring is definitely good. And I'm a little bit north of Boston, MA.
Hay Dude, what i usually do to check my wiring before i power up my amp (since i always mix up my wiring and learned the hard way by destroying my facorite set of components , BA pro60se) I take a cordless drill battery and connect negative speaker wire to the negative on the battery and tap the positive side with the positive wire. never had an issue since.

Best of luck!
 

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Hay Dude, what i usually do to check my wiring before i power up my amp (since i always mix up my wiring and learned the hard way by destroying my facorite set of components , BA pro60se) I take a cordless drill battery and connect negative speaker wire to the negative on the battery and tap the positive side with the positive wire. never had an issue since.

Best of luck!

I wouldnt do that two a tweeter though. lol
 

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I simply verify all my speakers with a warn out 9v battery. Have used smaller 6v camera batteries as well. Sometimes the speakers don't match their markings. So wire it up and test just to have that piece of mind. You never know. Don't think I would try it with a 18V drill battery though. lol
 

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BigT -Sorry I misunderstood, but they are not swapped. All the polarities are correct too. It's honestly not the biggest problem, the speakers are absolutely incredible and accurate.

I'm really more concerned it's hurting the tweeters, but I'm not clipping and everything is hooked up correctly. I'm very pleased with the speakers and the fact that it only happens with songs with incredibly distorted or overdriven guitar makes me think it's more of a speaker too accurately producing the recording - which is quite the opposite of a problem! haha I hear things in songs I've never heard before, and even with the top down everything is incredibly clear and loud at a flat EQ where before I'd have everything boosted to get marginal sound.

If the only problem is sometimes getting a crackling on certain parts of songs for a few seconds, as long as it's not hurting anything, I'm not going to complain.
 

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So what is the deal with the woofers? Keep reading people have popping issues. I've yet to fire my system up. Not even close. Too many other projects and other crap keeping me from the install. But have seen over and over where they have to raise the crossover above 100 to keep them from popping. Are these just not capable midbass drivers?
I'm running fully active with my system so will have no problems swapping in different drivers if need be. Well, the midbass drivers that is. The tweets will be in spheres and the mids in their own enclosures. But the 6.5" could be swapped for a more capable driver if needed. I'm gonna run two Sundown SD-2 8" subs so they could play to 100hz if needed but would rather have them crossed at 80hz.
I'm sure I will just cross that road when I get to it as it wouldn't take that much work to swap them if they just can't hang.
 

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They are very stiff, I think they just need time to break in and loosen up. When I first put them in, I had to cross at 150 to avoid popping. After about two weeks though I crossed to 95 and they sound a lot better and don't pop, and I have it loud enough to hear when I'm driving with the top down in my car at highway speeds. I can play any type of music and they don't sound over exerted or stressed.
 

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What kind of power are you feeding them with? My system will consist of a RF 3Sixty.3 to run fully active. AMT tweeters and the midrange drivers will be powered off a Phoenix Gold Titanium 500.4 (75wx4 @ 4ohm)(under-rated?) Midbass drivers will be powered by a RF Punch 800A4. Either by 2 channels of the 4 or in bridged mode. Bridged is rated at 400 x 2 @ 4ohm. Obviously I would have the gains damn near all the way down but have tons of clean headroom. Or just use 2 of the channels which are rated @ 100w in 4ohm.
Plan to dial the system in with REW once I get the hang of it. Not sure if running in bridged mode is asking for problems. Too much power for those speakers, amp running hotter... If I just use two channels, it opens up the other 2 to run my rear speakers (Kicker RS6's) Problem with those is I cant run them through the DSP, not enough channels being I'm running the 3-ways up front. Maybe there is a 2 channel dsp I could use to run the rears through to deal with time alignment and crossover.
Thoughts?
For reference, this is in a C5 Corvette so it is a small 2 seater with hatch area behind you. Will have two Sundown SD-2 8" subs in the back corners.
Tweeters will be located on the A pillars just above dash height in spheres. Mids and midbass in the doors. I've always liked rear speakers. More so to just lift the soundstage of the front by slowly fading until you just can't hear the rears. So all sound seams to come from the front but the rears are still playing.
I've planned to get the PPI's and subs dialed in and then maybe start playing with the rears to see if I like them in there. If not, just cut em off.
 

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Discussion Starter #579
I have mine on 2 PPI Phantom P900.4s. I use 2 ch of one amp to run my 8"subs under the front seats
 

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I am running a Rockford Fosgate P400X4 which is only 50W RMS per channel. It's plenty loud, but the only place I wish I had more headroom was listening to Sirius radio. The signal input voltage is lesser than the other sources so volume 30 on USB, radio, and CD it to 40 on Sirius. I am running a separate Rockford Fosgate 600.1db for my 10" Kicker.

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