DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

681 - 700 of 716 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,830 Posts
If you want your volume back, it will likely require a higher frequency and/or steeper slope crossover.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,830 Posts
Higher frequency on the high pass? I currently have it set to 80hz with a 12db Linkwitz slope.
Correct. If the popping is happening from over excursion, then switching to an LR4 HPF and/or raising the crossover frequency will probably help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
So the midbass popping was fixed by simple adjustments of the crossover and levels...

But then this happened today. What would cause this? Too much power?

All connections look good, the speaker wire doesn't looked burned or melted...

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
We also discovered one day that the mid will play out to 20k effectively.
Regarding the mid playing out to 20kHz. A frequency response graph does not yield anything I would call effective. Sure, I played with them without a tweeter, and I have seen people compete like that. But I still think it is foolish. Playing around to see the limits of a driver in a sound room is one thing, and looking at a frequency graph tells you what a MIC HEARS, not what humans hear. A mic has no judge of character, or relationship to space or density or "airiness". The set came with a tweeter for a reason. Tweeters always have been necessary and I am guessing they always will be.
Has anyone tried using the mid up to... let's say 8-10k and the tweeter from there up? I'm wondering about how high the mid can EFFECTIVELY play. Don't get me wrong, I love the way these sound but I'm in the process of changing things around slightly and I'm curious about what these mids can actually do.

In one of my previous cars I had Dayton Ref 7" in the doors and Ref 3" in the dash and it sounded great but was just missing something. I added a tweeter from about 8k and up and it went from great to WOW!

I currently am running a Pioneer DD into a JL HD900/5 bridged to these running full pasive (tweeters set to -3) and am very pleased. HOWEVER... I just picked up a JBL MS-8 and, per Andy's recommendation, was going to do the midbasses off the R channels of the JL and the mids/tweets passive off the F of the JL (100w/ch).

A possibility I thought of was running full active... midbasses and mids off the JL (again, 100w/ch), and the tweeters off of the MS-8 (20w/ch) from the previously mentioned 8k or so and up for that "sparkle" and feeling these AMTs are hailed for.

It might be worth mentioning that as of right now I have the mids in the dash firing up at the windshield and the tweeters in the sails, BUT I'll more than likely be moving both to the A-pillars aimed across shortly.

Opinions or experiences... ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Has anyone tried using the mid up to... let's say 8-10k and the tweeter from there up? I'm wondering about how high the mid can EFFECTIVELY play. Don't get me wrong, I love the way these sound but I'm in the process of changing things around slightly and I'm curious about what these mids can actually do.



In one of my previous cars I had Dayton Ref 7" in the doors and Ref 3" in the dash and it sounded great but was just missing something. I added a tweeter from about 8k and up and it went from great to WOW!



I currently am running a Pioneer DD into a JL HD900/5 bridged to these running full pasive (tweeters set to -3) and am very pleased. HOWEVER... I just picked up a JBL MS-8 and, per Andy's recommendation, was going to do the midbasses off the R channels of the JL and the mids/tweets passive off the F of the JL (100w/ch).



A possibility I thought of was running full active... midbasses and mids off the JL (again, 100w/ch), and the tweeters off of the MS-8 (20w/ch) from the previously mentioned 8k or so and up for that "sparkle" and feeling these AMTs are hailed for.



It might be worth mentioning that as of right now I have the mids in the dash firing up at the windshield and the tweeters in the sails, BUT I'll more than likely be moving both to the A-pillars aimed across shortly.



Opinions or experiences... ?


So, did you do this? I was thinking the same thing...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
Nope. Never did. I still haven't installed the MS8 I bought MONTHS ago either. My son recently tried out for (and made) our local travel baseball team so we literally have baseball practice/classes 7 days a week. I'm hoping when the games die down in about a month or so I can get some time to do some work. It's also sapping me of any spare $$ as well. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I'm having the same issue with my mids popping. Has anyone confirmed this gets better after break in?
Just curious but anyone else had this problem as one of my 6.5's popped at relatively low volume as well! thought at first maybe some Styrofoam from box got in around voice coil(in center of cone around phase plug)?? if so did this go away after break in period? thanks Jim text me answer if possible(814)271-9849
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Just curious but anyone else had this problem as one of my 6.5's popped at relatively low volume as well! thought at first maybe some Styrofoam from box got in around voice coil(in center of cone around phase plug)?? if so did this go away after break in period? thanks Jim text me answer if possible(814)271-9849
I run the midbass at 100/24b to pound on 'em. 80/24db for more detail/lower vol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
I flush mounted the mid and tweets in the doors, that is just where I felt they sounded best. The woofers are in the door but I plan on flush mounting them also and then lining the entire doors. I have these powered by JLAudio JX 400/4 bridged (200 watts per ch) passive but I am now taking it active and I'm wondering the ideal watts per each specific component? Is there a consensus here? I have read a bit but this is a hell of a long thread! I'm just gonna buy a 6 channel rather than add another 2 channel and I want to get the best one for this application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
I flush mounted the mid and tweets in the doors, that is just where I felt they sounded best. The woofers are in the door but I plan on flush mounting them also and then lining the entire doors. I have these powered by JLAudio JX 400/4 bridged (200 watts per ch) passive but I am now taking it active and I'm wondering the ideal watts per each specific component? Is there a consensus here? I have read a bit but this is a hell of a long thread! I'm just gonna buy a 6 channel rather than add another 2 channel and I want to get the best one for this application.


photo hosting ebay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
How do you like them?

I had the Dayton version of the tweeters for a while and I really liked them. They require very low power to drive and need to be tamed, but once the tuning was done I was very pleased with the results. Due to their response (4.5k +), these tweeters have to be matched with a mid that can go that high or in a three way system. I still have the tweeters but since I went with the Illusion Audio C6 so I have them in my closet now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Yeah I like them quite a lot but I need more fullness, more thickness and I don't know how to get it. Maybe its in the EQ? This is all pretty new to me. I am currently shopping for a processor because I am only happy to less than 3/4 volume then it sounds bad. Got any suggestions for processors or getting thick/full sound?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Yeah I like them quite a lot but I need more fullness, more thickness and I don't know how to get it. Maybe its in the EQ? This is all pretty new to me. I am currently shopping for a processor because I am only happy to less than 3/4 volume then it sounds bad. Got any suggestions for processors or getting thick/full sound?
I have mine mounted just like yours...sealed up the woofers with electrician's clay for weight/rigidity and then put damping sheets in the doors. I find that I need to cut 2.5K and 10K a bunch, but then that's all my HU's EQ will do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
I have mine mounted just like yours...sealed up the woofers with electrician's clay for weight/rigidity and then put damping sheets in the doors. I find that I need to cut 2.5K and 10K a bunch, but then that's all my HU's EQ will do.
Are you referring to his or squeal sound in a female vocal? I can't seem to tame that one but I need it fixed asap. I am looking into processors now I need to go active.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Those that went an active set-up, do you still need to wire the small mids out of phase in the newer model of this set? I'm about to install them in my buddys Tundra and going active with a DSP-88R, a P900.4 and a P900.5... Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Anyone got an extra woofer? One of mine quit and PPI says 6 mos. before they get replacement drivers in. Ugh, may have to just buy a new set. Suggestions for replacement woofers? Might just by a pair that can play lower and louder.
 
681 - 700 of 716 Posts
Top