The only problem I ever had with a sub mounted that way is that. When you open the trunk the bass get about twice as loud. The install does look very nice though.
I know there are no leaks in the box and it is the right size as well. Not sure about the sub as I have never used this sub before or known any one that did.Can you determine if it is the sub or box or something else?
Nice install BTW!
Its tight but the sub is not hitting the seat. I removed the seat back and it sounds the same.Are you sure you're not just pushing either the sub or the amp too hard?
How much clearance is in front of the sub? Is it possibly hitting the backs of the seats at high excursion levels?
First as for the leak test I did that and if I hold the cone in fore 15sec and then leg go it pops right back out.Can you push on the cone of the sub and have the box "deflate" so you push the cone in, and then it slowly returns to rest position?
If you can, the box has a leak, if you can't than it doesn't...
High volume, are you hitting the seatback at all? The subs surround would show signs of it if you were...
How is your gain set-up... did you follow a proceedure or did you just set it and call it good??
Ok, I'm seeing a glaring issue with your gain set-up... If i've read it correctly, you've kinda gone about it backwards...As for setting the gain, I started by maxing the gain on the Sub out line on the CD player. Then I set the gain so that at the max I can run the CD player the sub was seeing about half what I thought it could take.
That had the gain at about 1/4.
After a few weeks and many hours of play time I retuned the amp and made some changes to the box as I said in post one as well as changes to the amps EQ setting. At this point the gain is at about 2/3s.
The CD players gain is now at about 3/4-7/8 so I can add more if the station I"m listening to needs it.
Thanks.
If it pops right back out, then you DO have a leak in the box.First as for the leak test I did that and if I hold the cone in fore 15sec and then leg go it pops right back out.
So Im sure there is no leak in the box.
I will check Voltage the next time Im home. I just didnt have the tool needed with me at the time. I do have a DMM though.Any $10 DMM should work fine to check voltage drop. What about the history of this sub is it new?
I can't tell you anymore not knowing what the sound is, I don't know what an air type noise would be from if the box is sealed and you had the seat out and it still did it so it is not a clearance-to-the-sub issue. I'm not sure if air would try to get into your trunk around your setup there, that might be possible with enough output.
I will try that for sure!You said it only makes it at certain frequencies...
Can you hook up a laptop and play a sweep (use sweepgen or something else free) and tell us at what frequency?
Now look at your EQ settings. Does it match where you boosted?
I will retune my amp and Head unit the way you said just to be sure. All thou I think my way should have had the same end resoult as yous. But hay you never know. I may have messed something up during my tuning.Ok, I'm seeing a glaring issue with your gain set-up... If i've read it correctly, you've kinda gone about it backwards...
First thing I note is MAXing anything is bad.. You said you maxed the Sub out in the HU, does it have a range, or a center point? like -15--------0--------+15 or something like that?
If so, set it to zero..
I give this as a gain set-up guide... it's just that though, a guide.. rear it and tell me if it makes sence to you, in the grand scheme of things, K..
First off, EQ flat, levels flat and gains at zero...
Find and download a 1khz tone and a 60hz tone (the 45hz mentioned above is a bit low, 60hz is the strongest of the "bass" tones and it's what is used for SPL drags, because of that) Stereo System Test & Analysis Tones by Nino B.
Play the 1khz tone on repete, turn up the HU until you hear a distinct change in the tone (you should have output even with gain at zero) back off, try again, back off.. make sure you hear a change.. The point that you back off to is your HU MAX now... (keep following, you'll understand in a minute)
Now, with the new HU MAX, play the same tone, move to the amp... bring up the gain until you hear a distinct change, back off... You now have the amp MAX (keep following)
Now, play the 60hz tone at the HU max... turn up the sub amp gain until you hear a distinct change.. back off, you are now at the sub amps MAX.. You can unplug the RCAs from the other amp, so they don't have to be playing for this if you like..
Now, this is just a guide, once you find these points, it's totally up to you to listen to some music you know well and make adjustments from there...
AFA the sub level in the HU, you should never MAX anything.. and by setting up this way, you have adjustability to go BOTH directions, not just down...
If I haven't followed you right, please let me know, i'll retract my statements..![]()
I think you have the reversed. If it had a leak air would get out and so the cone would slowly return to its rest position. If it has no leak it should go right back when you let it go.If it pops right back out, then you DO have a leak in the box.
If it returns SLOWLY to the rest position, then you don't have any leaks to be concerned about.