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Discussion Starter #1
I am the world's biggest procrastinator so I still have not installed yet. I feel like such a loser. I think I will bite the bullet and have system professionally installed. So I am asking one last time (I Hope). At ~$2k for install I only get one shot at getting it right.

Nissan Titan Crew Cab 4-door. Active 3-way + sub. Assume adequate processing (MS-8 or Bit-One.1) and amp power. JL Stealthbox 2 x 10W3D2 subs.

Midbass in doors due to lack of Kick Panel room
HAT L8
JBL 660GTi
Alpine F1 (Scanspeak 18W)
B&C 8NDL51

Midrange (still haven't fully decided, leaning towards Kicks but maybe A-panel or upper door)
HAT L3-SE
HAT L4
JBL 560GTi
JBL 400GTi
Alpine F1 (Scanspeak 12M)

Tweeters in A-pillar
HAT L1 Pro R2
Alpine F1 (Scan Ring Radiator)
Hertz ML280-S
Rainbow Cal-28
Scanspeak D3004/6020

I did listen to most of these speakers except the HAT L1 Pro R2, L8, and B&C 8NDL. They were positioned in the truck with towels around them using the F1 3-way crossover for the most part, but I also used Hertz MLK crossover for 2-way listening.

I will give my thoughts at the risk of undue influence and getting flamed.

Alpine F1 set was the smoothest with excellent bass extension in the midbass. Good but not outstanding detail. Nice imaging considering they were just towel wrapped. But when pushed really had the mids and to a lesser degree the midbass sounded a little distressed.

HAT L4 sounded excellent but I thought the F1 mid was better by a small margin. Also some stress when pushed hard.

HAT L3-SE - just listened to these in the house full range from 80 Hz up. So kept them pretty low powered. Imaging was outstanding but I was PLD was pretty equal. Smoothness rivaled F1 but seemed a bit more detailed. The soundstage seemed sort of small but that may have been a result of me seeing how diminutive the drivers were. As a dedicated mid that might not be a problem.

JBL GTi mids I listened to with ML-280 and Scan D3004/6020. Not as smooth as the either F1 or HAT. Very detailed almost to a fault. Bass extension almost at F1 level. Seamed kind of peaky. Very dynamic, never seemed stressed. They were LOUD and CLEAR. Sounded real and raw. Nice imaging maybe not at F1 level but close. I was afraid to push them further as I was using is 375 W Carver home amp.

I am leaning towards JBL 660GTi midbass in lower door, JBL 400GTi in upper door, HAT L1 Pro R2 in A-pillars, with JBL 560GTi/HAT L1 Pro R2 center channel with MS-8. I am a little worried I will get listener fatigue since the mids are very detailed. The JBLs were not the best out of the box so to speak. But with processing I hope the peakiness can be tamed while retaining the detail and especially DYNAMICS. And per the manual and WINisd they work in small boxes. They seem like they would be the most fun set to crank up some Alice in Chains.

On the other hand the F1’s always put a smile on my face and seem to do everything well, and the HAT L3-SE floats an image like my Home speakers. I know rexroad has owned both the GTi’s and the F1’s and he prefers the F1’s. But I do not plan to use the GTi tweeter as he did.

Comments and advice appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Only one vote other than mine
 

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I would say ditch the idea of dedicated tweeters. Do some nice A pillars with L3SE's and L6's or 8's in the kicks or doors. I think you would be surprised how much of the top end they will cover...with a more realistic high pass of around 300Hz, they will handle plenty of power... If you go MS8 route, maybe a single L4SE or L3se in the center of the dash....

just my 2 cents....
 

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i would do the hat l8's or the 660's in the doors for midbass, then the f1's in the pillers or 400's/560's in the doors for the midrange, tweets would be scanspeak d3004 or hat r2 pro in the pillers as well.

thats alot of nice equipment there...

let me know what you decide on ill buy what you dont use! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had considered the L3's without a tweeter. I assume I would need to get them as much on axis as possible.
 

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F#1 out of all of those listed. Just can't beat the way Scanspeak drivers sound when it comes to smoothness.
 

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I just managed to pick up some old school 400gti mids off ebay.. cant wait to try these

Daul (4) 608gti midbasses in doors
400gti mids in doors or pillers
jbl tweeters or d3004 scan's in pillers

Fun Fun!
 

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Damn Jim, you got a lot of nice ****!

I would do...


JBL 560 GTi kicks... you said you liked the detail, but maybe too much at times? I think the MS-8 should take care of that for you. Plus more cone area than the other choices.

F1 RR pillars, on-axis... this will help add to the detail from the JBL's, plus reduce reflections.

JL ZR800... another contender worth looking at. I talked to a guy who runs the L8's & is switching to the ZR800's. He said the difference was substantial.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Interesting suggestion Fish. I see from Big Red's install thread he has gone to a larger mid. Details are sketchy but I think he has a HAT 6 LE in his dash now. He removed the L3 SEs from the A-pillar. Larger mid should have more lower register impact and realism.

And I just happen to have a pair of ZR800's on my shelf and a case of Peerless XLS 8's too :)
 

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Interesting suggestion Fish. I see from Big Red's install thread he has gone to a larger mid. Details are sketchy but I think he has a HAT 6 LE in his dash now. He removed the L3 SEs from the A-pillar. Larger mid should have more lower register impact and realism.

And I just happen to have a pair of ZR800's on my shelf and a case of Peerless XLS 8's too :)

I'm not surprised one bit you have a set of ZR800's at your house. :D

I'm in the process of moving away from a small 3" widebander in the pillars to a larger 6.5" pro audio mid in the kicks to gain more of that impact, realism, & fullness back like you mentioned. I'm a little worried going from pillars to kicks though, it's nice having everything playing above the dash. :) I need to check out Big Red's build log I guess.

Have you narrowed down your options?
 

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Peerless XLS 8, JBL 400GTi, and Scan Illuminator

I have heard all of them individually but dont know how well they will work together. I personally believe in systems having to have matching timbre, so I think the Alpine F1/Scan 3-way would be the easiest to tune and mate well IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am going to revive this since I bought a 2006 Toyota Avalon and selling my Truck.

I don't think the doors have room for 8" midbasses without huge pods sticking out :(.

Narrowing it down

1. JBL 660GTi Midbass in doors, JBL 560GTi or 400GTi mids (Depending on what fits) and HAT L1 Pro R2 Tweeters in A-pillars

Or

2. Alpine SPX-Z17T Scan Revs. I may go with another tweeter just because of the huge size of the RR in this set. Same setup doors, kicks, pillars.
 
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