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Discussion Starter #1
I was going to hold off on posting this build untill I had finished the Subaru install, but with all the recent VW builds lately, I couldn't resist!

This is Project 'Towley', my 1958 VW sedan. The car is Australian assembled so it has a few differences from your usual US models, namely RHD and semiphore turn signals.

For those interested, you can check out the resto so far here: NZ Vee-Dub Nuts • View topic - Towley the Polished Turd - '58 Ragtop

The design criteria for the build is pretty simple. I just want a nice sounding system that remains for the best part hidden, and use as little space as possible. The car will essentially be a daily driver plus be used for as many events as possible. These cars are small at the best of times, so every square inch of useable space is precious!


The headunit is to go in the glovebox and the amp under a false floor in the rear lugage space. The Blaupunkt puts out 55w x 4 @ 4Ohm with 250w @ 2ohm on the sub channel. It will eventually get upgraded for something with a bit more grunt, epsecially on the main channels (ideally a JL HD900/5 if I can get one for a good price), but it was cheap and will do for now. The front stage will be in custom made kick panels and the subs are to go in the cubby under the rear seat. I'm still undecided if it's worth using the Whispers as rear fill, but the will going in the rear side panels if they do get used.

First up was upgrading the charging system. The existing cables wern't exactly ideal - 10 gauge from the alt to the starter, then a slight increase in size (6 gauge?) from the starter to the battery. The new cables are Kicker 4 gauge hyperflex, all soldered and crimped then covered in techflex and heatshink.
The existing battery to engine ground cable was up to scratch, so I just cleaned it up and added the new battery terminal along with a new battery to body earth.




I've got more progress to post, but for now I'm off to the pub to watch New Zealand cane Australia in the Rugby World Cup semi-final. :D GO ALL BLACKS!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Righto, on with the build.

For sound deadening I've used mainly Dynamat Supalite with a bit of Dynamat Extreme. Never used it before so I guess I'll find out if it's any good once the car hits the road, but we got a sweet deal on it at work that was too good to pass up. Can always add more later if need be. There's at least two layers on the wheel tubs front and rear, aswell as the rear firewall. I still need to put some on the tunnel and under the hood. I've also jammed the rear quarters full of polyfill which I'm hoping will kill a lot of engine noise. It was fun pushing it all through a 1/2" hole!






I aquired some 1/2" thick foam padding somewhere along the way, so have cut that to fit the floor.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Kick panels so far:
The kickpanels will be permanently mounted in the car and carpeted over, making them appear factory. The baffles will be removable for if (more like when!) I ever want to change drivers.
I started with the typical tape and foil combo and put down about 4 layers of mat.
In the first shot you can see where I've run some 0/1gauge cable tapped up the front bulkhead. This will give me a channel to run the signal cables and speaker wires under.
I still need to buy the RS150-4's, but I have some RS150T-8 drivers I can use to start with and get the baffles aimed.



 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sub build:
Again, the area was tapped and foiled then multiple layers of may put down, along with some coremat for added strength.



The main baffle was cut from 18mm MDF and the back ground down to fit the curvature of the enclosure base. I also went over the back of the baffle with a concave roundover bit so the TB's have some extra breating room.


From there the baffle was duraglassed in place and more mat was put down.


Flushmount baffle glued and clamped


Which brings us up to date. Next step is to get the amp rack and wiring done so I can hook things up and get the front baffles aimed.
Thanks for looking!
 

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I'm enjoying this very much. I saw you more or less just had the car painted, but it looks like there are a bunch of places where the paint is scratched or something on the fenders. Is it bad or is it just the reflection of something nearby? Hope nothing serious.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I Look forward to seeing final product, but great job so far, very interesting project.
Cheers, I hope I don't dissapoint!

I'm enjoying this very much. I saw you more or less just had the car painted, but it looks like there are a bunch of places where the paint is scratched or something on the fenders. Is it bad or is it just the reflection of something nearby? Hope nothing serious.

Jay
Thanks man. Yea that would be my 'faux-tina' paint job. I wanted it to look like a ratty old barn-find paint job that's had a polish (Hence the name 'Towley the Polished Turd,), so after I painted it, I rubbed it back through to the primer in a few spots. Call me crazy, but it's definatley intentional!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The main part of the sub box is done, just have to figure out how to finish it cosmetically. I've only got .35 cu/ft after driver and bracing displacement so have made an opening in the top that will allow me to bolt a second enclosure to it to make up the volume. I'm still somewhat limited to the confines of inside the seat base, but I think I should be able to get around 1 cu/ft total. This will also give me the option of changing the top section for different tuning.

This shows the internal bracing and the upper flange to help seal the box.



And making the grille to stop wayward feet damaging the subs


I'll be ordering some of this grill material for a bit of a retro feel :cool:
Speaker Grill Cloth Fabric Beige/Brown Yard 36" Wide 261-810
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All the signal and speaker cables are now run. Starting off under the hood, they run down the LH side of the bulk head and to the rear. Everything is covered in Techflex and heatshrink.




Amp rack/storage compartment is all done bar carpet and some sort of latch to keep the lid down.




The holes in front and behind the amp are for 40mm cooling fans. I read a couple of reviews that the Blaupunkt can get a bit hot, so figured I'd take extra precaution. There's about 3/4" clearance between the amp and the lid, so I'll put some 1/4" spacers under the amp for extra air flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The next stage is making the new glovebox to house the headunit.
I started off by making a wooden buck to house the P80RS and an aux power supply and trimmed an old OG glovebox to fit.


Then glassed them up. These will become the negative molds to make the 2 parts which will then get glued and glassed to make the final glovebox.
 

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Fun looking project! One thing i don't get though. You have one of the easyest cars in the world for an up front sub, why put it in the back seat?
Trust me, it will sound good when you put it in the front. You're not the first with a beetle and a sub in the back on this forum but I can't imagine why one would want to do that with all that room up front.
 

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Nice. I love old Beetles. Is keeping an eye on weight a concern? Damping and MDF can add up, or are you bumping up the stock 36 HP?
 

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sub up front or in the back. space that was utilities is mint. still got cargo room if need be. can't say the same for the bug i just finished up.


NEUMAN
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fun looking project! One thing i don't get though. You have one of the easyest cars in the world for an up front sub, why put it in the back seat?
Trust me, it will sound good when you put it in the front. You're not the first with a beetle and a sub in the back on this forum but I can't imagine why one would want to do that with all that room up front.
sub up front or in the back. space that was utilities is mint. still got cargo room if need be. can't say the same for the bug i just finished up.

NEUMAN
Yea you got it Neuman. One of the main ideas behind the build was to make use of the available space and still retain as much cargo space as possible. I plan to drive the **** out of the car and will need the room from time to time.
The other downside to a front-mount sub is cutting holes on the front bulkhead, not too keen on hacking up an early bug!

Nice. I love old Beetles. Is keeping an eye on weight a concern? Damping and MDF can add up, or are you bumping up the stock 36 HP?
Thanks mate. The engine is actually '67 1500sp so I'm not that worried about the bit of extra weight and I'll eventually throw in a twin carbed 1600dp later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow, bump from the dead! Last year was just nuts so this whole project got put on the back-burner for a while. Finally found some time to get back into it today!

First of all, there's been a few changes to the equipment line-up.
I'm sticking with the P80RS, Blaupunkt amp and TB subs, but have ditched the Dayton drivers up front for some SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35-4 mids and Vifa XT25SC90-04 tweeters. I'll lose the Whispers as well, they were going to be a bear to integrate.


With the bigger drivers up front, I've had to re-think the kick panels, but pretty sure I have them under control now.

I've also got the second part of the sub box figured out. I should be able to net .7 c/ft which will be more than enough to run the pair of TB's sealed.

Pictures to come as soon as I make some actual progress! :D
 

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I'm subscribed and will be following as I love anything Vw.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Why did you switch the front speakers?
A few reasons really, the first being simply that I got a deal I couldn't refuse.
:laugh: I only had the 8ohm truncated versions of the RS150's on hand, so needed to buy some 4ohm versions anyway (better sensitivity + being able to throw more power at them), but I was concerned that the 150's might not provide midbass I'm looking for, due to being closer to a 5-1/4" driver than a 6".
I was also worried that the ND20's wouldn't play low enough so when the opportunity to buy the SB's and Vifa's as a package came along at a stupid-cheap price, it was a no-brainer!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had to re-visit the fiberglass molds for the glove box. By cutting out the section in the OG glovebox for the dropdown section, I lost a lot of strength and it warped to **** while drying. Fortunately I had another good one I could use (although this one subsequently died a horrible death when removing the plug:().

Here's the two parts removed from the molds

These were then mocked together and joined using fibre-reinforced filler.



I've done the final gel coat, just need to sand it smooth and polish the molds ready to lay them up for the finished pieces:D
 
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