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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I have read tons of info on going active and I think I wanna try it. But will my DLS Iridum 6.5 and SEAS Prestige 27TAFNC/G sound better going active using an audio control eqs and a 6xs, mids at 80hz to 3.5k and tweets from 3.5k and up. Or should I just use the DLS Iridum crossover box which crosses the tweets at 3800 hz. It will be pushed by a RF T4004 which is 90 watts rms x 4 which I have bridged rim now.

I know I will have total control when it comes to tuning. Basically is it worth it to add another piece of equipment into the mix. I like to keep all my installs simple.
 

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IMO, it's well worth it. Pros, you get a lot more things you can tune. Cons, you have a lot more things to tune.

I found that most issues with a sysetm can be more or less tuned out with an active setup with T/A.
 

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i tried using front tweeters with 2 channel of the 4 in my JL 300/4 . i was surprised at how much better the imaging became. the included passive crossover is piece of junk, it lowers the sound quality a lot. even with my cheap speakers, going active makes a wayyy better SQ system IMO, and I think you should give it a try, the tweeters dont need much power, but give them that they sound better.
 

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As diferrent car have its own sweetest crossover points due to space, placings and other factors. When you unsure which is the sweetest points, go for active. Else go for passive.
There's no ultimate right or wrong for active or passive. The ultimate answer for all time will be best tuned sound you can tune for your system.
 

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As diferrent car have its own sweetest crossover points due to space, placings and other factors. When you unsure which is the sweetest points, go for active. Else go for passive.
There's no ultimate right or wrong for active or passive. The ultimate answer for all time will be best tuned sound you can tune for your system.
i agree totally
 

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question for u guys, if i use a 4 channel amp for the mids & tweets and another 4 chnnel for the mid bass and subs would this be considered going active? my amps would be ESX 60.4- lpg twts & l3 mids 120.4 for dayton rs 180 and 12" IDQ HU -alpine 7949 or DVA 9861 the mid and tweets will be getting 60 watts rms 120 watts rms for the midbass 360 rms for the IDQ would this setup work or should i go a different way?


thx any info or sugesstions u guys can provide will be very helpful and appreciated



thx again


Mike
 

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...Basically is it worth it to add another piece of equipment into the mix. I like to keep all my installs simple.

You're adding a crossover prior to the amp, but you're removing the crossovers after the amp. Not realy any more complicated or more equipment, just different equipment.

Think about whether you'd rather have your amp only reproducing the necessary frequencies for each driver and then running directly to each said driver, or if you'd rather have your amp running wideband and having a passive crossover absorb (and disperse as heat) the frequencies you don't want the speaker to get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So basically crossover boxes are good and can sound good. Some crossover boxes are better than others but an external crossover gives me the option of crossover points and the adjust the tweeter,mids, and sub level.

Also does xover boxes waste power? Meaning is it more efficient to run passive xover boxes or run each speaker off of a channel on an amp.

Right now my set up is passive and my amp is set on HP. When I go active where should I set my amp HP/AT/LP?
 

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if i use a 4 channel amp for the mids & tweets and another 4 chnnel for the mid bass and subs would this be considered going active?
YES it will be considered a 4 way active setup.
 

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Dude active is the way to go I went active when I got my digital design amps and I have not looked back since you have more control over you sound using a passive crossover just dulls everything down
 

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If you have an idea of what you are trying to achieve [end result] active is a very good option ;)

If you don't know what you are doing...active is your worst nightmare :eek:
 

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Passive allows you to save space and is also much easier to tune. If either of those are important go passive. Otherwise active is probably the way to go.
 

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I think the only two cons of an active setup is:

-It can be a LITTLE more money. (IE processing, an extra two channels)
-I can never stop tuning. lol.

Other than that, I think active is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well main reason for this thread was/is because right now using my DLS iridum passive crossover boxes my tweets are crossed at 3800 hz when I go active the tweets will be crossed at around the same frequency 3500hz. I don't plan on messing with it after that. Will it sound cleaner without the passive crossover boxes?
 

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Passive if you just want to install the stuff, or better yet have someone else install your stuff, and start listening to the music right away.
Passive if you only have the budget for one solid amplifier instead of two lesser quality amplifiers.
Passive if you buy high quality components and believe that the designers probably knew more than you did about crossover points and slopes, and they didn't have the budget constraints that lesser quality components do.
Passive if you have space restraints.

Active if you don't mind tweaking.
Active if you have the money to blow on more than just one good amp. And a processor. And additional distribution blocks, and wire, and terminals.
Active if you think you need the power going to each speaker and don't want to "waste" any in a crossover network.
And did I mention Active if you have the money to blow?
Active if chasing the nth degree of sound quality is important, and/or just the thought of having umpteen amps scratches some deep itch.

I have 6 bridged amps for 6 speakers. I kinda like the Active route myself.
 

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Passive if you just want to install the stuff, or better yet have someone else install your stuff, and start listening to the music right away.
Passive if you only have the budget for one solid amplifier instead of two lesser quality amplifiers.
Passive if you buy high quality components and believe that the designers probably knew more than you did about crossover points and slopes, and they didn't have the budget constraints that lesser quality components do.
Passive if you have space restraints.

Active if you don't mind tweaking.
Active if you have the money to blow on more than just one good amp. And a processor. And additional distribution blocks, and wire, and terminals.
Active if you think you need the power going to each speaker and don't want to "waste" any in a crossover network.
And did I mention Active if you have the money to blow?
Active if chasing the nth degree of sound quality is important, and/or just the thought of having umpteen amps scratches some deep itch.

I have 6 bridged amps for 6 speakers. I kinda like the Active route myself.
I agree with all of the above. If you are picky about your sound, which I'm guessing you are because you are on this forum, then go active and don't look back. Once you go active you will never stop tuning though:laugh:
 
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