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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have seen this question asked on other forums. But, the answers are never clear and seems to go around the question! I would like to know, what methods are being used, by members here to protect their tweets??? I have heard just run them straight without protection. I have heard use a light bulb. And lastly I have heard use the cap.

I am looking for the best method for protection, on both my Dynaudio MD100 & Morel MT23. Your opions please. I have used the search but came back with nothing.
 

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what kinda crossover do you have? Active, Passive?

you dont really need protection on conventional tweeters.. if you hear it stress, turn it down.
 

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I am confident with my skills in setting crossovers so I do not protect from under frequency, reason being is that this is why I went active. I want NO phase shift from passive components or no artifacts induced.

This being, I provide simple DC protection if the amplifier were to fail and pass rail voltage to the high frequency section, minor DC offset is possible but not often seen. This is done with one cap in series with the driver, be it positive or negative, I generally do positive. I chose the value of this cap so that the first order -3dB point is at least half of the intended crossover freq. I also try to avoid the resonant freq of the speaker when chosing this but it is not really needed.

Cap choice is crutial, higher value caps can actually harm the hi freq response due the the inherent higher ESR (they will be seen as an inductor) So don't go too large and use a high quality device. I have had amps fail and never a tweeter in the many years I have been using active crossovers in car audio and professional audio. The only reason I have lost hi drivers is in overdriving situatiuons (feedback, oscillation). Yes, a light bulb can prevent this but finding an appropriate bulb is tough because you need to know it's heating characteristics and the resistance when hot. Sometimes the bulb comes in too early, this can be combated with a thermistor in paralell with the bulb, a thermistor had a low impedance until it gets hot, as it's impedance rises the bulb will recieve more power. Peavey uses this in their newer PA cabs and it seems to work well.

I just choose drivers that can handle the power I intend on giving them within the passband I choose. never had a problem.

Chad
 

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10K2HVN said:
what kinda crossover do you have? Active, Passive?
Read the title in his OG post...

What amp are you running on the Dyn tweets? Those tweets, the md100 will take well over 150 watts without having any problems. I once did a test last year and ran my DLS A3 amps (I have 2 of them), one to each side bridged to my Dyn comp set. Which gave each side over 550 watts of really clean power and they asked for more. The tweet never went into protect mode, nor did it get muggy with that much power. I dont know on the Morel tweet, but with the md100, imho, it wont need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Active setup! I have the Alto drive30, and the Audio Control DXS. Using the formula from the link below. I am currently running a 30 mfd cap "since I was not able to find a 32 mfd" on my Dyn MD100! Is this the best way to go? Since this would be a 1st order (6 dB per Octave) filter. How does this work when the slope is set steep on the active xover? >>>http://www.carsound.com/columns/clark/clrk0012.shtml
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
AzGrower said:
10K2HVN said:
what kinda crossover do you have? Active, Passive?
Read the title in his OG post...

What amp are you running on the Dyn tweets? Those tweets, the md100 will take well over 150 watts without having any problems. I once did a test last year and ran my DLS A3 amps (I have 2 of them), one to each side bridged to my Dyn comp set. Which gave each side over 550 watts of really clean power and they asked for more. The tweet never went into protect mode, nor did it get muggy with that much power. I dont know on the Morel tweet, but with the md100, imho, it wont need it.

I am running 2 PPI PC4100.2, 100x4 amps! Six channels running the front active, and the last two running the rear passive.
 
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