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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

For those old school punch guys, just picked up a 200ix, opened it up and found this -arggh.

Do you think this part of the board is fried (hence the Jerry rig) or just some hack job that could be repaired properly..?

thanks!
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The
 

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This is what a
dscf0011_71.jpg
non ****ed board looks like,
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Not a electronics guy but if the traces are fried I'm not sure what else can be done.... at least what can be done at a reasonable price.
 

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Not a electronics guy but if the traces are fried I'm not sure what else can be done.... at least what can be done at a reasonable price.
Thanks - yeah, I’m kinda bummed. I sent the pic to my repair shop and he said it can be fixed. He can’t tell if the trace/socket is jacked until he sees it, but if they are - he could do a more appropriate and reliable fix.
 

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Thanks - yeah, I’m kinda bummed. I sent the pic to my repair shop and he said it can be fixed. He can’t tell if the trace/socket is jacked until he sees it, but if they are - he could do a more appropriate and reliable fix.
I am not a repair man by any means.. but from laymans perspective that thing looks ****ed.. may i asked what you paid for it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am not a repair man by any means.. but from laymans perspective that thing looks ****ed.. may i asked what you paid for it?
Too much - lol. Actually it’s in very nice cosmetic condition. I paid ~$175 - no end caps. In the sellers defense, I don’t think he knew about it. It works, it’s just a hack job.
I expect a recap is required (or a good idea
at least) for most of these, so I factor that into what I will pay. I just cross my fingers the boards are good. If the boards are good, getting these repaired is pretty reasonable. Even this one is not overly expensive to get repaired (based on what my shop said), just hate having hacked stuff - lol.
 

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Trust me when I say this. I've repaired car amplifiers for over 20 years. Keep the heat sink and mounting hardware if you want. Chuck the PCB in the dumpster. There is burn damage to a high current section of the board. It would be risky (like catching fire) to try and use this again.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Trust me when I say this. I've repaired car amplifiers for over 20 years. Keep the heat sink and mounting hardware if you want. Chuck the PCB in the dumpster. There is burn damage to a high current section of the board. It would be risky (like catching fire) to try and use this again.
Thanks Geo - not the news I was looking for - lol. I may try a s find a parts only unit that hopefully has a good board.

although by the time I’m done with that, I might as well buy a nicer one and sell mine for parts only - lol.
 
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