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Question about GB40's from anyone that has experience with them.

1389 Views 47 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  tjk_bail
I'm thinking about installing some GB40's in the upper front door panel's. (not lower door)

But, I'd only do this install, if I was confident they could be crossed over at 150hz/24slope. And
play down the 1 octive to 75hz. I'll be pushing 120watts per channel to them.


If you have experience using/tuning GB40's, would you be willing to share what you have figured out
with these speakers.

Are they a good speaker? Will they play down to 75/80hz?

What Crossover do you use, and how much power are you sending to them?
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Mine are down to 110hz on 100w. But after making cuts and dropping them to match the combined output of my left and right. Who know how much power they are seeing. But at full tilt they have 0 distortion and sound really good. I just took these for @tjk_bail

Raw no filters, then 100-3k LR24db, then EQed at those same crossovers.

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You're pulling 10+ dB out of that at the frequencies where I find the driver isn't happy. So your 100W becomes 10w.
You're pulling 10+ dB out of that at the frequencies where I find the driver isn't happy. So your 100W becomes 10w.
Yea, but there's no need for more in that area, its a midrange not a midbass. It's a centre channel. I'm not using it to get low like a midbass. That's volume 15/30 (usable volume) by the time I hit 25 they are screaming loud. 1 GB40 gets the output of my left and right GB25 combined. Now if your trying to overpower them in the bottom octaves of the usable passband of any driver you will introduce distortion. But if your just trying to cover a null and not get crazy midbass out of it the GB40 should do just fine.

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My GB40s didn’t sound very good when I first installed them because of how they were screwed down into my dashboard.

Pretty much the same thing with my GB25s in the door. I installed them using my factory Toyota steel mounts but, they didn’t sound good at high volume. I then used a thick speaker gasket material & put them in pods & they sound great now!

Pics of GB25 pods & in one picture you can see 1 of the 5.25” subwoofer but, the door is open so you can’t see how close the GB60 actually is.

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How wide are your nulls?

Look at a really high RTA resolution like 1/48th. My nulls are super narrow, so not worth worrying about tbh, ymmv.

I have a huge null at 150 through 270 on Left Mid-base... check out pic below...

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Mine are down to 110hz on 100w. But after making cuts and dropping them to match the combined output of my left and right. Who know how much power they are seeing. But at full tilt they have 0 distortion and sound really good. I just took these for @tjk_bail

Raw no filters, then 100-3k LR24db, then EQed at those same crossovers.

View attachment 373736
Thanks for taking the time to post this information !!

By looking at those measurements, I think they look promising for what I have in mind.

Thats a crazy null you got there at 270hz......Prob a cancellation null from windshield.....
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My GB40s didn’t sound very good when I first installed them because of how they were screwed down into my dashboard.

Pretty much the same thing with my GB25s in the door. I installed them using my factory Toyota steel mounts but, they didn’t sound good at high volume. I then used a thick speaker gasket material & put them in pods & they sound great now!

Pics of GB25 pods & in one picture you can see 1 of the 5.25” subwoofer but, the door is open so you can’t see how close the GB60 actually is.
If your footwell 5.25's are covering 50hz to 220hz, then pairing up to your GB25's, what are you GB60's doing ??
If your footwell 5.25's are covering 50hz to 220hz, then pairing up to your GB25's, what are you GB60's doing ??
GB60s are doing 80hz to 220hz
Thinking I could use my Helix Input EQ and set some Shelf filters for the GB40's.....

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Thanks for taking the time to post this information !!

By looking at those measurements, I think they look promising for what I have in mind.

Thats a crazy null you got there at 270hz......Prob a cancellation null from windshield.....
Yea I'm sure it is. That speaker is behind my floating head unit pointed directly at the window. I'm actually surprised that's all I have.
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GB60s are doing 80hz to 220hz
wait wait .... your 5.25 subs are playing 50hz to 220hz, and your GB60's are playing 80hz to 220hz....hummm something about that doesn't sound right.. but, hey, if it sounds good ... !!
wait wait .... your 5.25 subs are playing 50hz to 220hz, and your GB60's are playing 80hz to 220hz....hummm something about that doesn't sound right.. but, hey, if it sounds good ... !!
As I said before, look up “Cone of Confusion” here on DIYMA.

I tried it all 3 different ways & it sounds better with both of them playing than with just either one of them playing by themselves.
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I am also doing the cone of confusion with multiple subwoofers stashed around the SUV too.
I am also doing the cone of confusion with multiple subwoofers stashed around the SUV too.

I searched for Cone of Confusion and got 481 results.... can you post the link your talking about here....
I searched for Cone of Confusion and got 481 results.... can you post the link your talking about here....
cone of Confusion
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I have a huge null at 150 through 270 on Left Mid-base... check out pic below...

View attachment 373815
So ignoring the 4 nulls you probably won't hear (green trace @175Hz + 205Hz, purple trace @220Hz + 280Hz) what you're left with is a valley that's <= 10dB. Pulling down both sides around the valley should make it look and sound a lot better.
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I had my sb acoustics Mnrx12 crossed at 160hz lr4 with no issues and they sounded great doing it. You could consider these for that application at the very least if they don't work for ya you only spent $120 and some fabrication and time 🤷‍♂️
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I searched for Cone of Confusion and got 481 results.... can you post the link your talking about here....
More good reading: One of The Reasons Your Midbass is Anemic
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I had my sb acoustics Mnrx12 crossed at 160hz lr4 with no issues and they sounded great doing it. You could consider these for that application at the very least if they don't work for ya you only spent $120 and some fabrication and time 🤷‍♂️

How did you have them mounted? Did you have them in any type of enclosure? Where did you have them installed?
So ignoring the 4 nulls you probably won't hear (green trace @175Hz + 205Hz, purple trace @220Hz + 280Hz) what you're left with is a valley that's <= 10dB. Pulling down both sides around the valley should make it look and sound a lot better.

I agree with you... and I've done those things that should work....I can get it to sound pretty darn good, but I know it can be a lot better.... did you forget about the rabbit hole we are all infected with? lol... but that area is always a mess with bad frequency response and phase. I can make it look okay on an RTA graph with to much EQ boosting in the bad areas, but it will sound funky...

The GB60's with play 75-150 perfectly, and the Morel MM3 will play 250hz to 2700hz perfectly... its just that 150hz to 250hz area that impossible to play correctly due to the Factory lower door location.

I can only think of 2 possibilities to fix this issue, 1 would be to use upper door speakers that would cover those bad freq's or install footwell Subs like KillerBox has done...

Hey @KillerBox, anyway I could get you to post some pics of your footwell subs ?? And maybe some RTA frequency graphs?
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