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Discussion Starter #1
Head unit - pioneer deh-80prs
subwoofer - jl audio 10w6v3
component speakers - illusion audio lucent l6
sub amp - jl audio 500/1
speaker amp - alpine pdx-f6 4channel

I was at a car audio shop today due to having problems with my door speakers not playing. After trouble shooting the issues which was due to bad speaker wire. The shop notice on my active setup i was not using any caps on my tweeters for protection. I explain the reason was i was running full active. After explain my reason they told me. I should use the passive cross that came with my component on the tweeters only and set the bi-amp switch on the crossover's to on to protect my tweeters from blowing. Now my question is . If i do this will this defeat the purpose for full active.
 

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You can if you want. The idea is that if you accidentally send a full range signal to the tweeters they won't blow because the passive is there as a back up.

Personally, just be careful. I don't want the phase issues with the passive and if you want to run them at a different freq than the passive, you can't

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
 

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your installer was "so close" to getting it right...but missed it the shot.

Yes you should use a passive crossover on your tweeter when running active, but it needs to be well below the active xo freq so as to not interfere with the sound of the tweeter when the active XO is working.

Its only there in case the XO craps out and leaves your tweeter unprotected and getting a full range signal that would fry it. There are many articles on what value to use, but look for the one from Andy at Audiofrog, his is considered to be the gold standard. You just need a simple 6db cap inline with he positive tweeter speaker wire...the best value is in the article that andy wrote.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so let me get this right. if i do what they are telling me. i will not be able to set the tweeters freq off the deck to where i want it to be which is 8k with a 12db slope. instead it will set it to what ever is on the crossover.
 

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so let me get this right. if i do what they are telling me. i will not be able to set the tweeters freq off the deck to where i want it to be which is 8k with a 12db slope. instead it will set it to what ever is on the crossover.
A)That depends on what the passive is set to.
B) why that high? Almost pointless. What do you have that plays from your midrange to 8k?

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
 

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so let me get this right. if i do what they are telling me. i will not be able to set the tweeters freq off the deck to where i want it to be which is 8k with a 12db slope. instead, it will set it to what ever is on the crossover.
You will not be able to set them any LOWER than the passive but you could go higher. Andy suggests setting a cap value such that the "passive x-over" point is an octave or more below what you plan the active x-over setting to be. This way, the cap won't interfere with the active setup and still protect the tweeter. I did this and added a fuse (belt and suspenders).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A)That depends on what the passive is set to.
B) why that high? Almost pointless. What do you have that plays from your midrange to 8k?

Sent from my LG-LS998 using Tapatalk
the reason my tweeters are set to 8k with a 12 db slope is. anything lower is to bright.how can i tell what the passive is set to ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You will not be able to set them any LOWER than the passive but you could go higher. Andy suggests setting a cap value such that the "passive x-over" point is an octave or more below what you plan the active x-over setting to be. This way, the cap won't interfere with the active setup and still protect the tweeter. I did this and added a fuse (belt and suspenders).
the manual for the components i have say 2000hz 12db linkwitz riley. don't know if this is the passive settings of the crossover
 

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the reason my tweeters are set to 8k with a 12 db slope is. anything lower is to bright.how can i tell what the passive is set to ?
That makes zero sense. You eliminated all midrange and they get less bright?

The 2000 hz they were designed for should be much better.
what are you eqing them with?
Aiming? (On axis or off?)

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm equipping my components with a alpine pdx-f6 4 channel amp. And I have the tweeters installed in the stock location of a Nissan 350z if that is what you are asking.
 

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Install caps and be done with it. I thought about running this way (passives on an active setup) but the ONLY reason to do so is to protect the tweets, which a capacitor does on it's own. I installed 2200 Hz caps on my tweets and they're crossed at 4500 hz, so nowhere near listening levels. You don't hear them, and they don't affect tuning.
 

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What is the low pass setting for your midbass? 8khz? Or a gap of 6khz?

Try 2500-3000 Hz and EQ between that range, cutting as much as you want instead of crossing that high.

Then, get a non polarized cap, in the range of 25uf to 30 uf, 500- 1000 Hz below the crossing point.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here what settings I have on my pioneer deh-80prs. Sub 80hz 24db , mid low 80hz 12db , mid high 3.6hz 9db tweeters 6.3k 18db. Sorry thought it was a 12db slope on tweeters.
 

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Here what settings I have on my pioneer deh-80prs. Sub 80hz 24db , mid low 80hz 12db , mid high 3.6hz 9db tweeters 6.3k 18db. Sorry thought it was a 12db slope on tweeters.


Try mid hp 80hz Lp 3000hz, high Hp 3000hz -12db slopes.

I doubt -9db slopes are available it has to be -6db that slope is way to shallow for tweeters, and risky also, -12 or -24 will be way smoother, maybe that is your issue of brightness.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
it's 3 way if you count the 2 way component's with sub. i don't understand what you are saying by Missing from 3.6-6.3 hz in the range?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Try mid hp 80hz Lp 3000hz, high Hp 3000hz -12db slopes.

I doubt -9db slopes are available it has to be -6db that slope is way to shallow for tweeters, and risky also, -12 or -24 will be way smoother, maybe that is your issue of brightness.
yeah i don't know why i said 9 i mean to say 6 db slope on the mid high's. i cross the tweeters at 18 db slops because at 6.3 hz it gets real bright at 12 db so with 18 db it lower the brightness some.
 

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yeah i don't know why i said 9 i mean to say 6 db slope on the mid high's. i cross the tweeters at 18 db slops because at 6.3 hz it gets real bright at 12 db so with 18 db it lower the brightness some.

After crossing at 2500 Hz the Midbass and the tweeter
Try -24 or -36 Db, then cut EQ if it's too bright, it's better to EQ, that setting crossovers with gaps to cut the range of Frequencies that you don't want to hear, cut as much as you can with the EQ to find the tonality you like, 5khz, 2khz.

Maybe even bring the mid bass down to 2khz and leave the tweeter at 2500
 

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Cross them lower so they match your mid crossover and turn the gain way down on your tweeters. Sorry if I missed it. What component set do you have.?
 

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Yes cut highs output gains before EQ cut, if it's too bright, it's in the same network where you set the slopes, either twist the dial or move the lever to find the setting to cut the decibels.
 
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