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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping you guys can help clear up any misunderstandings I have about what is possible as far as getting large speakers in car doors.

What I would like to do is have a large diameter (10-12") midbass/sub in the doors of my 03 Civic sedan. I would like some sealed pods to be made for these, but I'm not sure how much airspace is available down there to do that. If anyone has any idea from their own experience would be greatly appreciated.

A second option would be to go IB. This is where I get confused... Does the volume inside the door really matter as long as there is plenty of ventilation from speaker into door/outside? This is what led me to thinking I could fit a
12" in the door & volume wouldn't matter much since it's IB.

I'm attempting to go without trunk-mounted subs for once;).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Go IB and get ready for some serious rattling ;)

This would be the better of the 2 options ;)

OK, IB will probably be easier and cheaper. But what about the part where I asked if the actual airspace in the door cavity really matters in the choice of speaker size I go with?

All rattles aside for now;).
 

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If you want a driver that large in the doors I'd suggest considering an aperiodic enclosure for them. That way you get the advantage of a box without having to worry about how much airspace you need. It will take some tweaking/tuning to get the aperiodic membrane right, but it will be more than worth it IMHO.
 

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It isn't necessary to put drivers that large in the doors in order to have the bass sound like it comes from up front. In my 25 years in this industry, I've only heard one car that had woofers that large in the front that sounded like anything worthwhile. It just isn't necessary and the work and modifications required for good performance are a serious waste of time--especially when a simple box in the trunk will do the job.
 

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It isn't necessary to put drivers that large in the doors in order to have the bass sound like it comes from up front. In my 25 years in this industry, I've only heard one car that had woofers that large in the front that sounded like anything worthwhile. It just isn't necessary and the work and modifications required for good performance are a serious waste of time--especially when a simple box in the trunk will do the job.
This man has a very good point. And the car you're talking about that sounded good wouldn't happen to be a BMW 5 series with 15's in the kicks would it? :)
 

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I'm hoping you guys can help clear up any misunderstandings I have about what is possible as far as getting large speakers in car doors.

What I would like to do is have a large diameter (10-12") midbass/sub in the doors of my 03 Civic sedan. I would like some sealed pods to be made for these, but I'm not sure how much airspace is available down there to do that. If anyone has any idea from their own experience would be greatly appreciated.

A second option would be to go IB. This is where I get confused... Does the volume inside the door really matter as long as there is plenty of ventilation from speaker into door/outside? This is what led me to thinking I could fit a
12" in the door & volume wouldn't matter much since it's IB.

I'm attempting to go without trunk-mounted subs for once;).
Most doors are around 2.5 cuft then you can add that some air escapes, so really, it's going to seem like an IB situation for most speakers.

I happen to believe in the concept of putting larger drivers up front to get the tactile feeling closer to where the impression of the performance is ocurring. I personally get thrown 'off' mentally when I hear a performance out in front of my but I feel the bass coming from behind. It just ruins the experience for me. Right now I'm running with nice 8's up front in the doors down to 50Hz and the sub in the trunk does the rest of the bass. This has worked out really well for me. When you listen to the music, "if" your common sense is telling you that you need the bass up front, then you will very likely enjoy the hell out of it like I do. The door might not be ideal for the lowest octave of bass though but a 10" might work if it is a shallow sub. I think I've read where a guy used a Morel 9" midbass, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks everyone for your thoughts & advice. Time to do some more research.

Boosted, did you get your sealed door pods finished? If so, can you describe the differences between when you had them IB & now sealed?
 

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Thanks everyone for your thoughts & advice. Time to do some more research.

Boosted, did you get your sealed door pods finished? If so, can you describe the differences between when you had them IB & now sealed?
Fabrication is still happening on the door pods. But as soon as they get finished and I get them dialed in I'll be sure and do a comparison. There better be a significant difference after all this work! LOL! :)
 

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To the OP,

What do you currently have in your doors? If its still a 5.25 or 6.5" speaker, you'll be shocked at how much better midbass output you can get with an 8" driver in the door. Check out the thread/reviews of the Peerless SLS 8" on this site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To the OP,

What do you currently have in your doors? If its still a 5.25 or 6.5" speaker, you'll be shocked at how much better midbass output you can get with an 8" driver in the door. Check out the thread/reviews of the Peerless SLS 8" on this site.
I have the 6.5" Type X pro's in there right now. Yeah, I've searched the SLS8 many times on here. That one & the Dayton & Trio8 are on the list also.

But then I started thinking, why not try the SLS10?:D
 

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James Bang has SLS10's in the doors of his Camry. You might want to PM him and ask for his thoughts. The SLS8 is a little monster though and shouldn't be overlooked IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
James Bang has SLS10's in the doors of his Camry. You might want to PM him and ask for his thoughts. The SLS8 is a little monster though and shouldn't be overlooked IMHO.

Thanks, good lookin' out bro. I'll give him a shout.
 

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I don't have any problem getting bass upfront with 6.5".
Andy made a post that changed my life a while back on how to get bass upfront even from 5.5" speakers.
And all that with 80hz @ 24dB lowpass... Not the uber low 35-40hz like I see on many forums. Seems like you're missing a lot of the music. My substage is also 6dBs louder than my front stage and all the bass is still coming like I have my sub in the front.

Kelvin

PS: 8" or 10" speakers are nice anyway... If I had the choice, of course I would choose the biggest fit.
 

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i had 3" drivers on my dash once, they sounded like 8s. szrzly, they would make me laugh regularly with their ability to impersonate the tone on an 8" driver, volume and output no, but sound...yes.

im positive you can get a 6.5 / 7 " driver to sound like a 10...easily if done correctly.
 

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i had 3" drivers on my dash once, they sounded like 8s. szrzly, they would make me laugh regularly with their ability to impersonate the tone on an 8" driver, volume and output no, but sound...yes.

im positive you can get a 6.5 / 7 " driver to sound like a 10...easily if done correctly.
I think thats part of the problem though. You can hear some of those notes at a very reduced volume, but if you want impact and the ability to reproduce that upfront bass at moderately high listening levels, its just very hard to do with single drivers 6.5" and under.

Can it sound good? Yes. But do you really get that impact?

From my experience, transitions between a subwoofer and small midrange driver just arent very smooth. It becomes easy to locate the subwoofer do to the gaps in the midbass regions.
This is one of the great things about having a midbass that can fill the gap on the underside of the midrange and allow a lower crossover point on the subwoofer.
Of course this is all dependant on what you listen to, and what kind of tuning suits your ears...


To the OP, another thing to think about is the top end response of an SLS10. I know I wouldnt run the SLS8 above 250hz so I cant imagine the SLS10 being much better in that regard. In fact, I would expect it to need to be crossed a tad lower. So, you'll really need to think about how low you want to cross over your midrange speakers as well to see if a 10" would even be a fit for you.
 

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The good captain makes a very valid point. With the SLS10, do you have dedicated midranges that can be run that low? I honestly think that you don't need to go any bigger than an 8" for midbass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I guess I should have added in my OP that I do listen at high volumes, therefore 6.5" speakers just aren't cutting it for me. My 6.5" do have good midbass, just a bit lacking.

As far as midrange, not sure yet. Fountek FR-88, L4, L3, RS100 come to mind.
I will be using the DRZ9255, which I think mid highpass goes down to 200hz.
Would ya'll think the SLS10 will play that high?
 

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No possible way a well designed 7" midbass will outperform the an equally well designed enclosure for a 10". No replacement for displacement. Use what the doors offer
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No possible way a well designed 7" midbass will outperform the an equally well designed enclosure for a 10". No replacement for displacement. Use what the doors offer
I went with 10's.
 
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