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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 3-series BMW convertible and my custom sub system just blew (mechanical failure). I am now trying to find a used IDQ driver for a completely different setup...project time!!:evil:

Question: It may seem obvious, but in that car, would there be much difference between an IDQ10d4v2 vs IDQ12d4v2? Im going to do a fiberglass enclosure in the rear right quadrant of the very-well-sealed trunk. I'm not a bass head, I'm middle aged and a wannabe audiophile (although I can never actually afford to be one). However, i need enough bass to overcome highway speeds with the top down. The sealed enclosure/speaker will have a target qtc of between .7 and .8, as I always do, and will be powered by an Alpine MRP-M350 (350 watts at 2ohms).

Also, since I can't find them new, what are fair prices for used drivers, should I be able to find them?

Thank you!
 

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My past experience with convertibles is you can't get enough cone area or have enough power. If you have the room in this application bigger is better ! Go with the 12" and try to find a way to vent into the cabin somehow, do you have the skihole between the seats in that car? I used and IB setup with a 12" driver in my old 2001 330i once and it worked pretty well. I had about 500 clean watts on it.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My past experience with convertibles is you can't get enough cone area or have enough power. If you have the room in this application bigger is better ! Go with the 12" and try to find a way to vent into the cabin somehow, do you have the skihole between the seats in that car? I used and IB setup with a 12" driver in my old 2001 330i once and it worked pretty well. I had about 500 clean watts on it.

Good luck!
I do have the ski pass and would consider doing mods in that area, but only if I can make it look BA, and not rigged. This is one of the things I'm considering, thanks!
 

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Woofersetc.com has idq v2 new both 10s and 12s
 

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Dayton RSS265HO could be considered. .7 Cuft tuned to like 30hz (about 25" long x 3" d aeroport) 600w handling, said to be one of the best sounding woofers out, with the ability to get down low if ported. Half the cost of the IDQ too.
 

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Half the price of the IDQ V3, still about $30 bucks cheaper than the V2.
 

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I do have the ski pass and would consider doing mods in that area, but only if I can make it look BA, and not rigged. This is one of the things I'm considering, thanks!
This can be done very nicely, those who didn't know used to ask me if it was factory. You can cover the skihole from the inside with some grill cloth to hide the driver and some metal mesh to protect the cone and surround from elbows and such. Even if you don't go IB a slim mount driver that requires .5 to .75 cu. ft. would be easy to do and not eat up much trunk space. At least the back of the driver would be protected this way too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Woofersetc.com has idq v2 new both 10s and 12s
I wish they did (and the website makes it look like they do), but they don't. I called and talked to the sales rep and verified.
He said to consider the v3-- is a much better unit, etc., but that's too much money I think. Also said my 350 watts would only drive the 10" efficiently, not the 12". Interesting...
 

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I wish they did (and the website makes it look like they do), but they don't. I called and talked to the sales rep and verified.
He said to consider the v3-- is a much better unit, etc., but that's too much money I think. Also said my 350 watts would only drive the 10" efficiently, not the 12". Interesting...
did u tell his dumb self to change it to out of stock on the pages for v2, or remove them completely?
 

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I have 3 IDQ 12 v3's on my boat. I am running them all off a single ARC Audio 1000w amp. They are each getting roughly 333 watts. They sound amazing. Your 350 watts would drive one IDQ12 no problem. Go with the 12. They rock.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This can be done very nicely, those who didn't know used to ask me if it was factory. You can cover the skihole from the inside with some grill cloth to hide the driver and some metal mesh to protect the cone and surround from elbows and such. Even if you don't go IB a slim mount driver that requires .5 to .75 cu. ft. would be easy to do and not eat up much trunk space. At least the back of the driver would be protected this way too.
I think if I were to do that, I would look for a used ski pass cover and mod/build the metal mesh, etc into the middle of it (with leather still around it). Make sense??

I may eventually do that even if I go non-IB, just to let the sound into the interior. As you know, one of the challenges is to get the sound from the trunk into the cabin...BMW does it's best to keep the two areas separated!

When you went IB, what driver amp combo were you running?
 

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Could also look into the ID10v3. I think it's supposed to be similar to the IDQ10v2. The power you have would be perfect too. I'm probably gonna run one of them in a sealed box with 400W.
 
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