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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen, it been a long road in this car audio game. Seems like every time I amass my components, the vehicle it’s intended for goes to hell mechanically. And I’m a recent immigrant to Alabama (from Virginia) and come to discover you BETTER be good at working on your own engine here, cuz the people are morons. Don’t EVER take it to a mechanic here... you’ll be lucky if they don’t just loose your keys. Or worse... they blow your system while in their care, misinstall and ruin a new engine and he existing transmission...AND loose the keys. Then want $100 tow fee begore giving it back. Can’t even script this sh-....

So..///I’ve once again got my metaphorical ducks in a row, and about ready to jack this 1996 Toyota Camry (what I’ve downgraded to from a new Ranger Wildtrack at this point, thanks to mechanics) up in stands and start stringin’. Given recent experiences../:what I’d like to do, is have the subwoofer enclosure REMOVEABLE. Same goes for the amplifiers, powered crossover, and aux fuse panel. If it goes to hell or MUST ago to a shop, I can just unhook them and jerk em out in 10 minutes. Money is so tight that I’m concerned where my next meal is comming from thanks to these idiots.... but I know I need to have somthing other than work to do with myself or go crazy. So it’s this. Finishing what I started 2 years ago.

I know they make quick disconnects specifically for car audio, and I haven’t the money, obviously. What I DO have in my shop are several 220v 20A sockets and plugs. It would be awesome to just have a socket I could plug into in the trunk, and have it cleanly installed with a faceplate beside where I’ve done the same thing with the RCA’s from the headunit. A nice flush surface mounted outlet with spring loaded cover.

I just don’t know how save it is. I mean, from what I can tell, [email protected] can provide a rated max of 4400w. That’s probably double what I’ll be drawing. At car voltage (we’ll say 14v), a system fused at 200A will only be making 2800watts.

Is it feasible? Or will I blow my beater all to hell? FYI, do have second battery if I need it, and big 3 already done
 

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All it is, is a connector and it isn't fused. So I don't see why not. You'll only use the pos and neg on the plug and not the ground. If the connection isn't very tight you may need to see about securing it so it doesn't vibrate loose.

One issue you may find is how to connect the wire to the plug. It is a much larger gauge than the plug is designed for.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure i would go down the road of household receptacles.

Just disconnect everything at the amps, or use these:

https://www.amazon.com/LingSY-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B06XV8L8L8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7GNMKY5DBTZNPJJH393Z
So what you’re saying is....spend money I don’t have, on something I’m already aware of.....yet can’t afford.

I may as well have not even typed that whole paragraph *sigh*.

If you’re reasoning is just that it doesn’t say car audio on the package....you’ll have to come with better than that. If it’s that some genius might try and plug a washing machine into my trunk..... you’ve got a point. If there’s anyone alive who’s made it to adulthood without natural selection having already weeded them out, it’s here in Alabama. But if I glue a shiny quarter to the trunk floor, I think they’ll be distracted and forget the washing machine idea.

Anybody else? With some mathematical reasonings? The outlets are rated for 20A @ 220v.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All it is, is a connector and it isn't fused. So I don't see why not. You'll only use the pos and neg on the plug and not the ground. If the connection isn't very tight you may need to see about securing it so it doesn't vibrate loose.
What I was thinking. Mathematically it looks sound. Wasn’t just looking for a yes man, but someone to peer-check,you might say. I’ll see what anyone else has to say.

Well.... those that read my whole post, and aren’t just working for some supplier. Amazing how you’ll post you don’t know where your next meal is comming from....but they want you to pay for some product specifically advertised for the job. Pay with what? Food stamps? Maybe they live in alabama, too.....

Would probably faint if they saw my stack of fan-cooled XBox PSU’s, powering two Memphis 15’s on a couple Sony 1200s in my living room. Enough to walk a glass of Water across the coffee table watching Thin Red Line.

Probably have the geek squad go inside their laptops for them, at whatever the cost.

<shakes his head at men today>
 

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Another issue you could have is arcing, but I can't say for sure. But the close proximity of the pos and neg on a 220v/20a connector and the larger size of your wires (4ga + compared to 10-12ga the connector is designed for) may not be properly shielded to prevent arcing.
 

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^^^ This. 220V and 20A are two sperate maximums. It is NOT just 4400 watts. If you need less than 20 amps, the household receptacles should work. If you need more than 20 amps, go with the XT60s. It is $8 well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
^^^ This. 220V and 20A are two sperate maximums. It is NOT just 4400 watts. If you need less than 20 amps, the household receptacles should work. If you need more than 20 amps, go with the XT60s. It is $8 well spent.

<prays for patience>

220v outlet rated for 20A.... equals a max of, What? 4400watts! The point being that I’m not using anywhere near hat much.

You’ll have to excuse me. I leave out all the simple 1+2’s when I’m brainstorming in calculus, too. I Take it for granted that everyone in the room can keep up.

Why I rarely ever post here. I spend hours replying to people about stuff that’s not even relevant to the question/verification I had. Look how many people have posted product links when half my original post described how the LOCAL idiots have left me F****** Broke! Ever specifically mentioned the SAME disconnects you all keep linking. What am I supposed to do, call up the ebay seller and promise him a BJ on credit?

Jesus Christ. Someone posted the address for this forum in a remedial middle school somewhere.

Thread closed.
 

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<prays for patience>

220v outlet rated for 20A.... equals a max of, What? 4400watts! The point being that I’m not using anywhere near hat much.

You’ll have to excuse me. I leave out all the simple 1+2’s when I’m brainstorming in calculus, too. I Take it for granted that everyone in the room can keep up.

Why I rarely ever post here. I spend hours replying to people about stuff that’s not even relevant to the question/verification I had. Look how many people have posted product links when half my original post described how the LOCAL idiots have left me F****** Broke! Ever specifically mentioned the SAME disconnects you all keep linking. What am I supposed to do, call up the ebay seller and promise him a BJ on credit?

Jesus Christ. Someone posted the address for this forum in a remedial middle school somewhere.

Thread closed.
At 14 volts (a reasonable automotive voltage) you will hit 20 amps with only 280 watts.

P=IV so if I (current) is 20 amps, and V (voltage) is 14 volts, then you'll only get 280 watts safely. Just 420 watts will pull 30 amps. Make sure that whatever solution you come up with can handle the current you're asking for.
 

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<prays for patience>

220v outlet rated for 20A.... equals a max of, What? 4400watts! The point being that I’m not using anywhere near hat much.

You’ll have to excuse me. I leave out all the simple 1+2’s when I’m brainstorming in calculus, too. I Take it for granted that everyone in the room can keep up.

Why I rarely ever post here. I spend hours replying to people about stuff that’s not even relevant to the question/verification I had. Look how many people have posted product links when half my original post described how the LOCAL idiots have left me F****** Broke! Ever specifically mentioned the SAME disconnects you all keep linking. What am I supposed to do, call up the ebay seller and promise him a BJ on credit?

Jesus Christ. Someone posted the address for this forum in a remedial middle school somewhere.

Thread closed.
I think you need some weed...
 

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I would think you are talking for speaker wires. An XT60 connector could not handle a 4ga power wire.
I was thinking that 10 pairs come in the pack and 3 pairs would equal 180 amps which should be sufficient. But more importantly, DavidRam has the real answer!
 

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And OP, unless your 220V plugs are the locking type, which aren’t that common, no way would I risk a fire in a car. A regular plug could easily come loose and cause a fire.

Sorry that the recommendations we gave cost money but that’s the reality. We didn’t throw out crazy solutions that cost much money, and least most of the recommendations were entirely reasonable, so I hate to say this but if you aren’t able to do it right with at least a little bit of money, you may not be able to do it, YET. Or, just forego having a quick disconnect and wire into a distribution block, assuming that is part of the equipment you’ve been collecting. I sure hope a main fuse holder for the wire run from the battery and a fuse block for the amps has already been collected. If you don’t plan to run fuses, you have the potential for a fire to take out your entire car.

And sorry you’re frustrated but we are just trying to help.
 

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What Guage wire you running. Maybe if you clamp on ring terminals and screw em down tight and fuse before the terminal just on case anything comes loose. It's your car. I really don't recommend it but I know how it is being broke and still wanting to tinker. Just make it safe so you don't start a fire and cost you more money.

Save up for this. Looks pretty beefy. Or look up forklift battery disconnect.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/123380254086
 

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Is this for power or speaker wires?

Speaker wire you should be fine as the amp won't be putting out much over 150 watts for speakers (unless sub).

Power wire and you are in trouble. As gijoe said. The 220v and/or 20amps are both maximums. As in, you only get 20amps of current through that plug before you have heat issues.

If we assume 14v, that means 280 watts total for power.

You also have to worry about the constant shaking and rattling of the plugs....I wouldn't want those plugs to fall out going down the road and hit anything metal and fry your amp.
 

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I mean, I was going to give good answers (look at winch power connectors) but the OP is being a douche so, use kindling wood instead.


edit:


Let's just help someone who comes across this thread in the future, with the same issue:


Winch power connectors are pos/neg connectors that usually can take up to 2 gauge cable, and are designed for this type of work. So I would A: Install a main circuit breaker within 12" of the battery, which will be the main power cutoff. And then B: install whatever removable equipment needed with one or multiple (as needed) winch connectors. For any circuits remaining, use XT60's which work well up to about 10 gauge.
 
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