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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey guys, Happy new year!

This is the last build we will do this year, just finished it last night, so...one more build log to hold you over until after CES :)

The car was our first new gen accord and the goals were:

1. to obtain a decent level of sound quality that is superior to the previously installed aftermarket system.

2. to maintain a stealthy appearance in the interior

3. maintain as much usable space and stealthiness as possible in the trunk, retaining the spare tire.

before all that, i forgot to thank a few people for their help:

[email protected] for his support on the 360.3
Papasin for his insight into his experience working with his oem honda system and various processors which ultimately led me to this decision
Jesse and Jay @drive customers for giving me their wiring color code and other hints since they just built a new accord sema car :)

Perhaps the main challenge with these newer generation accords is the stock signal source, which as of now, cannot be changed out. The OEM pre-amp signal is the odd mixture of balanced and very WEAK signal, and it is pretty easy to have noise issues and or noise floor problems....as some of our members have noticed...we came up with a solution for it and it turned out pretty good :)

our man Jesse did most of the work on the interior, while i focused on wiring and the sub enclosure, and Joey did the amp rack and under hood, truly a team effort :)

lets start first with the fuse holder under the hood. Joey tacked on a metal bar across the oem hold down to secure a single mosconi ANL fuse holder. here is the finished product and two quick pics during the build process:







for OEM interface and processing, we chose the rockford fosgate 360.3, a few people have had strange noise issues with the mosconi processor and the oem honda premium system, so we decided to go the safe route, but additionally, the RF units small dual knob controller really helps in this situation, it provides a easy to reach knob that controls master volume, subwoofer volume, and pre-set controlls. The controller is mounted below his storage pocket within easy reach:



the unit's bracket was bolted through the oem plastic, a grommet installed and cable lead through, and then the factory piece secured back in:









the front stage consists of an illusion audio carbon C6 two way component set installed in the factory locations. Jesse took apart the oem tweeter cup, trimmed it out slowly until the illusion tweeter can snap in and the oem ring can still snap in as well. here is the finished result:





Jesse then ran two pairs of speaker wires into each door, match routed two spacer baffles, bolted them in place and trimmed out the factory metal to enable the fitment of the illusion drivers:



these baffles were then coated with several layers of truck bedliner to protect them against the elements:







then rest of the door is then sound proofed with a combination of STP foam and CLD damper, and the spacer ring secured via factory mounting points:



the Illusion C6 midbass was then wired up and installed:



the same procedure was then repeated on the passenger side:







next comes a series of pics showing the wiring bundles as they travel from the front to the back of the car, ziptied to the factory loom every few inches. down the driver side went the power cable and speaker wires, while the passenger side received the RCAs speakers and remote turn on cable.

to make sure we have enough voltage to eliminate any unwanted noise issues, i went with a pair of Arc audio ALD balanced line drivers to boost the signal. these are tucked away in the passenger side kick panel and they woked GREAT! a lot of clean voltage with no noise and a pretty low noise floor. infact, it is my opinion that with this higher voltage from the ALD, the mosconi processors should not have issues with noise either.













the rear deck was removed and the metal covered with 50 percent CLD damper, and the deck lid got a lot of attention from STP foam damper. the oem rear sub was already removed and we took out the aftermarket coaxials as well for better response into the cabin:







the wiring bundle then continue into the trunk to their respective staging points :)



 

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Discussion Starter #2
moving to the finished trunk, as stated the goal was to have things out of the sight, tucked away, and retain as much space as possible. so here is the normal view with the trunk open. about the ony thing you see a recessed sub enclosure on the driver side.





the processor and amps, meanwhile, are bolted to a steel amp rack that is in turn bolted to the rear deck of the car via rivet nuts, you have duck down a bit to see them:





the 360.3 is on the passenger side, we supplied him with a arc KS300.2 to power the tweeter with 190 watts, and the customer previously had a PDX 5 channel taht is bridged into a three channel, sending 200 watts to each midbass, and 500 watts to the sub.

pop off the vented grille on the sub enclsoure, and a single illusion audio C10 resides in a sealed enclosure about .5 cub feet net. unlike previous generation accords, which featured a neatly shaped carpet over the wheel well, this new accord sorta had a long flat surface that runs all the way to the front, after playing with a few different ideas, i did a minimalistic mold that saved as much space as possible and not look overly large for a single 10" sub.







moving back to the amp rack, here is a closer shot at the rack, the components and the wiring, all the power distribution happens on the back ledge with bolted in place blocks and grounding point. sorry for the fuzzy pics, they were taken late in the day and i had to raise the brightness on them so the stuff can be seen more clearly :)











and a coupla final shots of the trunk, at normal standing height and lower to see the components, to show how tucked they are:





here are three shots of the amps and processor bolted to the metal rack, before and after the RCAs were pre-run, this assembly bolts to the rear deck via five bolts:







onto the subbox: here is the initial mold being taken of the trunk side:



when that cured, it was removed and trimmed to the desired shape and test fitted to the location





then the mounting baffle with ring was aimed and attached:



mold cloth was then pulled, resin applied, allowed to cure. then the subbox was cut open on the back side and fiberglass reinforced from the inside., then it was sealed back up, test fitted again, gaps backfilled with duraglass, and then final sanded, and the final result is:



the enclosure was then carpeted, and dyed lighter to better match the oem carpet:





and finally, three shots of the vented grille before and after carpeting:







the subbox is attached via a single bolt and rivet into into a metal cross member behind the factory carpet that used to house a plastic clip.

so thats it. the car does pretty good imaging wise, a dash mat could IMO certainly help it. but imaging is relatively hovering above dash level, the center is located right on the top edge of the upper display, and width is superb. depth is right at the middle dash level. tonality wise its got great detail and good mibass impact, and the sub can get pretty loud and give the cabin a good shaking. overall, a pretty big improvement over the previous aftemarket system :)

well thats it...have a safe new year and i will see yall in 2014!!!

Bing
 

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Very clean and stealthy! I bet the owners wrapped.
 

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Did i miss the GTR log? This one looks great too, after talking to your Joey i have decided on XDi amps myself and will probably do an Arc sub in a similar enclosure to this on my passenger side.
 

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Hey all, signed up specifically to ask a question here. Just wondering what your thoughts are on mounting amplifiers and the like upside down. I've been working at a shop for a little over a year and have been taught to sneer at the practice. It makes sense to me to mount them the right way up or at very most 90 degrees so the heat sinks are able to dissipate heat, otherwise the heat caused by the amp will rise into the circuitry. Is this why you've mounted it onto a metal frame with the air gap between the amps and the underside of the parcel tray? Im guessing mounting it directly to the tray or a carpeted mdf board should be avoided?

Cheers :)

Ben
 

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^^ yes good question. It depends, the heatsink has to be exposed to the air, and so the amp can cool efficiently. so inverting an amp with the heatsink facing down, means a lot of heat is being trapped inside the amp instead of coming off the top. I try and aviod it, but it is ok if you can keep the chassis of the amp cool, or use fans to cool it. More of an issue with class AB.
 

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Nice work!

That fuse holder looks familiar...kinda like a JL audio fuse holder. lol

Out of curiosity, why not run a 300.4 bridged to the mids, and use the PDX-5 in 3 channel mode running 200ish to the tweets and 500 to the sub? Would have gotten something near 350/ch on the mids and been then same physical size.

The Arc KS amps have fans/venting in them, so I don't think it's that important to mount them right side up or upside down, but the PDX amp *might* be iffy. Tho those never seemed to run stupid hot anyway.

What are your thoughts, Bing or Joey?

Jay
 

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Another home run... you guys are the dream team!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
1. on the upside down thing. in my experience, a well designed modern amp that isnt known to run hot, especially class D and or G/H amps, i have never seen an issue them being mounted upside down. the metal of the amp rack certainly conducts heat and helps to act like a headsink, but a few time before Joey came on board, i have mounted amps upside down on a wood piece bolted to the rear deck, and none ever had a heat issue...i dont do this often but the times that i did, it never had a problem. some amps, such as the arc SE, we were told works best when its hang upside down in this manner. So I guess what i am saying is, its one of those things, you are aboslutely right, theoretically right side up on most amps should always be best, but through experience, we learn about how amps react when done in this manner, and after a few dozen installs, you become confident with it... hope that help?

jay: thats a 300.2 :) the KS amps are honest to god one of the coldest running amps i have ever dealt with...as for the PDX? i have done a coupla HD JLs upside down like this with no issues, so i dont expect it, i mean as far as heat dissipation goes, i assume having two or three amps stacked would be far worse and they are designed to do it..
 

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Bing I know for this install that the amps on the deck worked best. But did you happen to eye ball the spare tire well? I am wondering about using the space where the foam above the spare tire is and making an amp rack while keeping the floor still at factory height.



Would you care to share where the power wire is through the fire wall? Any factory empty holes that where used?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Bing I know for this install that the amps on the deck worked best.


Did you happen to eye ball the spare tire well? I am wondering about using the space where the foam above the spare tire is and making an amp rack while keeping the floor still at factory height.
to be honest i didnt take much of a look on this, but for me, if i am going to do a fake floor WITH spare rention in this car , i want to ensure two things, one is that the spare can be accessed easily with almost no tools or simply a phillips screw driver, and with one hand. and the other thing is the floor has to look completely oem.

so the issue would be how to do a pivoting amp rack in this car when the wires have to come from the back, if they come from the front, there is no room iirc beneath the factory carpet and the metal floor. so..it may be tricky.

but again, thats just me regarding putting someting above the spare. if you dont care about that, i do think there is enough r oom to fit things above the spare. i do remember it was odd in that the tool tray is tiny, and doesnt nearly fill the empty space above the spare, and the facrory floor sits on top of it. :)

Jesse did the wiring on it, there was already a hole in the firewall from the previous aftermarket installation, so we used that, i will have to ask him where it is :)
 
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