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Discussion Starter #1
I’m aware of the Peerless XXLS 12 and the forthcoming (1 week) Hybrid Audio Technologies I10SW. What I am looking for is what other subwoofers you would put in the same class of 10”-12” drivers needing very little power to reach their potential? Drivers that would compete well against one of these in a max 2 cf sealed or vented enclosure (IB is not an option). Unless things change, I would probably be looking at 200-300 watts at 4 Ohms max for the sub stage. Also looking to keep the price at or below $250.
 

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just remember Irons law. really efficient subs rarely play very low or are not very good at power handling. a little loss in efficiency can (and ussualy does) sound better
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Based on the WinISD modeling I have been playing around with both the Peerless and the I10SW seem to get plenty low. At least as low as what other models I have modeled. And they both get as low and loud with less power. Just curious to see what else is out there that might be just as efficient, but perhaps at a better price.

I could look at other amp options providing more power, but I'm really liking the idea of a single 4 channel amp to power the whole system. And that would require a pretty efficient sub to be worth while.
 

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The Dayton Reference HF subwoofers model similar to Peerless. The HF12 does not seem very practical sub for a car, with WinISD recommending a sealed box bigger than 2.0cu ft, but the 10 inch HF would work well. In fact, for $20-30 over the price of one 12 inch Peerless XXLS, you can pick up 2 Dayton Reference HF 10 inch subs. There are 4ohm and 8ohm SVC versions. Give them approximately 0.85cu ft to each. Their combined frequency response and sensitivity look similar to 1 peerless XXLS12. They should sound good at low/normal listening volume, but could handle ~500watts of power before reaching xmax, if necessary. Peerless will not handle more than 200-250watts, though it does seem to have 2-3dB more sensitivity than most of other subs I have tried modeling, often getting as loud as the more conventional car subs in sealed box on 400-500watts of power.

Another interesting subwoofer is Image Dynamics IDQ v3. It's not as efficient as the Dayton HF or Peerless XXLS, but it's still very efficient. Compare it to more conventional subs like Alpine Type-R or RE Audio SRX. It's somewhere midway between average efficiency and super efficiency. Well handle a lot of power with good SQ.

PS: Another superefficient subwoofer is "Dayton Audio DVC310-88 12" DVC Series Subwoofer" sold by parts express. Try to model it. It's super efficient. It's a clone of an older Adire Shiva subwoofer and it used to be considered among the best a long time ago, but I was advised not to buy it because the newer Dayton and Peerless subs sound better.
 

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just remember Irons law. really efficient subs rarely play very low or are not very good at power handling. a little loss in efficiency can (and ussualy does) sound better
Not quite exact... Hoffman's Iron Law doesn't talk about power handling & efficient subs can still have very good power handling ;)
The law dictates sensitivity, small box size, and low-end extension - choose any of the two and the last one suffers.
Sensitivity does not = efficiency for subwoofers...

Kelvin

PS: the only way to bend the law is by going IB (which the OP doesn't want)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the responses, but it sounds like if I want an efficient sub that can run off of 200 watts in a 2 cf or less box my best bet is probably the Peerless or Hybrid.

If I go for option two, skip the single 4 channel amp, and get 400-600 watts dedicated to the sub(s), I can pretty much take my pick. Just not something I am going to over power (or waste energy) like the Peerless or Hybrid.
 

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You won't "overpower" your subwoofer, if you have a 600watt mono amplifier powering a subwoofer like Peerless. The mono block amplifiers usually put out their highest rated wattage with 2ohm loads. If you have a mono block amplifier rated for 600watts for 2ohm loads, it will probably provide around 300watts for 4ohm loads with 14.4V battery. Since in normal car operation the voltage is lower than 14.4, your "600 watt" amplifier will end up being perfectly matched to the Peerless subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Actually, what I was looking at is a two channel amp capable of producing 600 watts at 4 ohm when bridged. In that case, with the gain up I would provide too much power for the sub. And if the gain is down, I will be wasting power in the form of heat, correct?
 

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Actually, what I was looking at is a two channel amp capable of producing 600 watts at 4 ohm when bridged. In that case, with the gain up I would provide too much power for the sub. And if the gain is down, I will be wasting power in the form of heat, correct?
If gain is low, then the amplifier will use less current and less heat will be dissipated, so it's not a correct statement IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You are correc, i was mistakent. I guess the only concern would be over driving the efficient subwoofer(s) even with the gain way down during peaks in the music.
 
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