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Discussion Starter #1
Let me start off by saying I have a big trunk.

I have 6x9 openings in my rear deck over the trunk and I need some help choosing what's right for me. Originally I had my eyes set on some CDT Gold 6x9's:
CDT Audio ES-0690 Gold

But then searching here about IB subs, I came across the CDT Refurb store which is probably the worst thing I could ever come across. I see two sets of speakers which will fit in my 6x9 openings.
Shop CDT Audio - QES-680  
And
Shop CDT Audio - CL-69SUB/CF

I realize I'll need to make some mounts for the 6.8, I'm not shy about it, I've made mounts before. At least I think that would work back there. I should probably just stick to the 6x9 speaker size, KISS right?

BUT THEN I was also considering a pair of 8" subs running IB. I know almost nothing about picking out subs for IB other than what little I've read here. There's a lot that's just plain over my head. I think those may be out the window since I don't understand enough to make a correct choice on my own. I'm not looking to be told what to buy, just helped with making the correct choice.

ALSO I don't want to totally eclipse the front speakers. I could have done better picking them but I got a good deal on them and I'm over-driving them a little bit. Infinity Kappa 682.9cf driven by a Pioneer GM-5500T. To my tin ears they sound fine, I'm just worried that if I cram something really amazing in the rear deck I'll hear the rear speakers booming away and pulling me backward. I have some sound shaping options to play with in the head unit, maybe this isn't a valid concern. I'm sort of in over my head and would appreciate some help with all these way too many choices. Please don't add too much more, I'll just get even more confused. Thanks guys!

Cliffs, are the Gold's worth the price premium over the refurb CF's? :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Maybe I'm asking too many questions at once or should have put this in the General forum?

I'm just having a little information overload. I've done a little more reading and it sounds like IB 8" subs would probably be the right choice to get a full low end when compared to the CL-69SUB/CF. I'm not sure how IB 8" subs would compare against the CDT Gold 6x9 or how the 6.8 subs compare against any of the 3 above options.

I'm still worried about missing mid range or overpowering the fronts if I get some super duper awesome rear setup. I know coaxial 5x7 Kappa's aren't the best for the front and I should have done something better, but the price was right and externally the vehicle looks stock.
 

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I tried the CDT 6X9 subs in my rear deck and had to remove them. The deck is only plastic and it vibrated badly even with damping applied. If you can deal with that, they sound pretty good. Nice thing about IB is you don't need much power. I have Kicker free-air 8" subs in another install and they work very well with only 65W each. But the rear deck of that car is steel.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thankfully my rear deck is structural steel covered by press board with some fuzzy carpet, whatever gets mounted back there can be mounted straight to the steel or onto the plastic stock mounting rings or I'll fashion some rings of my own from real wood (or have my friend rough cut me some for me to finish).

The Kicker CVR8's? How would you say they compare against the CDT 6x9's more directly? I'm sort of inclined to go with 6x9's since I'm not sure what it looks like under the rear deck cover when it comes to space for excursion. Also, most 6x9's are designed for free air use while it seems hit or miss with 8" subwoofers. Some have low Fs and high QTs which would indicate they should be good IB but they're not, some have lower QTs and they're great IB. It seems to be more of a driver by driver basis than strictly specifications. I haven't owned a real sub since a 3rd hand JBL GTX 8" with a rattle I was given in exchange for some car repair in highschool.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did some math to figure out how much current I'd need to pull to run those CDT's at full RMS wattage, it's more than I think I want to pull from the alternator. IB subs really may be the correct choice for me. More research required.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm an idiot. I asked my smart friend and he suggested a pair of 8 ohm Tang band 6x9 subs, but they're 8 ohm I protested...then realized they're just rear fill so wire the two 8 ohm to a single 4 ohm load and use a monoblock to power it. It's just rear fill, who cares about stereo! I'm a bonafide idiot sometimes, getting hung up on needing two rear channels.


So now I need to find a 4 ohm 200W RMS mono amp that's compact enough to tuck away somewhere like under the rear deck itself maybe or stick to one side of the trunk up in the corner.
 

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I'm an idiot. I asked my smart friend and he suggested a pair of 8 ohm Tang band 6x9 subs, but they're 8 ohm I protested...then realized they're just rear fill so wire the two 8 ohm to a single 4 ohm load and use a monoblock to power it. It's just rear fill, who cares about stereo! I'm a bonafide idiot sometimes, getting hung up on needing two rear channels.


So now I need to find a 4 ohm 200W RMS mono amp that's compact enough to tuck away somewhere like under the rear deck itself maybe or stick to one side of the trunk up in the corner.
Pretty much any 2 channel amp you should be able to bridge to a 4ohm load for that pair of speakers. Arc FD and Zapco have some cheap ones on ebay for like $100. Being IB you may not even need to bridge it, you'd be surprised how efficient those TB would be even at 8ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks. I'll get a two channel and try it both ways. So something around how many watts RMS at 4ohm ratings per channel would get me where I want? I'd like to be running them at full rated power since I have some over-driven 5x7's upfront.

I get hung up on the trivial details too much when it comes to my projects, then I completely miss the answers staring me in the face. Thank you for the advice.

Hey, wouldn't it help to link the speakers I'm talking about huh?
http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w69-1042j-6x9-subwoofer--264-837
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ah, I couldn't find any 4 ohm 6x9 TB's for sale and when I search that number it seems like it's discontinued. Further reading shows the 8 ohm version to have a better excursion...and it's for sale. Actually both models spec sheets you linked are no longer sold. Only the one I linked is stocked anywhere it seems. Slightly different specs than the one you linked.

The ones I'd buy are calling for 90W RMS at 8 ohm and 170W peak. I figured I'd want at least 50-75W at 8 ohm driving them so that would translate to ..... at 4 ohm?

I see a MB Quart RA400.2 for $110 shipped, way overkill? (on eBay, new)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67875_MB-Quart-RA400.2.html?show_tab=1

There's also this weird German brand I've never heard of....
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2555_Volfenhag-ZX-8200.html
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I thought as much about the 'Wolf Hag' but sometimes those weird brands are the good ones. Thanks for the help, I think I have a good idea what I need to buy now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
One last question, I think I know the answer. 8GA or 6GA copper cabling for the RA400.2. It's fused at 40 amps (2x 20A), I'm not sure where in the car I'm sticking it just yet but I can always use extra cabling so I figured I'd just order 20ft of whatever gauge I need.

I believe the correct answer is 'bigger is better'. I already have a power distribution block with fusing so I don't need a fuse holder or any of that jazz, just tin the cable ends, tighten the screws, and pop in a maxi fuse to the block. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally ordered the Tang Band 6x9's and some 6ga cable. It's started to warm up a little so I got a little fever going. It still will be a couple months till I can get this part of the project done though. Now I read in the comments at Parts Express that these use a different screw pattern than most automotive 6x9's use, can anyone elaborate on that?
 

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Go buy some 1/4" thick cutting boards from walmart/target etc. Easy to make a mounting adapter from those. piece of cake.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea, I've made speaker mounts before. I made some nice 6x9 adapters in my old car to fit them into non speaker openings in the rear deck, carved with out of hardwood plywood with a scroll saw and a sanding table one at a time.


I was just curious how they differed in terms of mounting than normal car speakers because they don't look that different to me in the photos.


Car audio 6x9


Tang Band 6x9


Am I just not seeing something obvious? Obvious other than the slight difference in the shape of the frame, though other car audio 6x9 are shaped similarly to the TB's...?

Mazda Bose 6x9 (I do not have the Bose system)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got them today. That's a heavy big ass magnet, damn. My what a large voice coil you have too. Also I see what that comment meant about the mounting. Easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just because the perspective of the photo's sort of hides the dimensions of the speaker on PE, here's a nice shot dead on the side with an average sized hand holding the speaker.

 

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take the two 6X9's and put them face to face, to see how different the screw hole positions are, and then look at the opening. You may have to cut some metal and drill new screw holes if you're going to install them in top mount position.

if you mount them from underneath, you'll need to provide a seal from the speaker flange to the deck metal underneath, usually using an adapter.

for the amount of work involved in building an adapter plate, you could have possibly installed an 8" woofer in IB.

there's not a lot of people who show the adapter plate, the installation, and the results from 6X9 subwoofer installs and yet, many look at the Tang Band option, pretty hard before adding a big sub somewhere in the trunk.
 
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