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Discussion Starter #1
Running a Dayton Ultimax 12 DVC 2-ohm in a 1.75 cu.ft. sealed; after driver displacement.
Recommended sealed is 2.0 cu.ft with 1 lbs of polyfill. --- 600 watts RMS.
Rear firing trunk enclosure in BMW 328i coupe; stock electrical is either a 150- or 180-amp alternator.
Stock door and rear quarter speakers running off aftermarket deck power with adjustable high-pass crossover; may upgrade and amplify later.

Trying to do a sound quality leaning system and chose the Ultimax 12 over the IDQ12 due to the enclosure size I am working with. IDQ was at the top end of recommended cu.ft. and the Ultimax was on the small side. I figured being on the small side would give better cone control.

Given all that... I have absolutely no idea what amp to run. I've watch dozens of 'dyno tests', but none say anything about sound.
Are there any differences between amps as long as it's clean power?
 

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Are there any differences between amps as long as it's clean power?
Not really, just pick something with about double the RMS rating of the sub that has lots of credible good reviews, maybe even something that has been dyno tested.
Stuff another 26 ounces of polyfill in that box too. 24 ounces per cubic foot is ideal, 42 ounces total for your box.
 

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Rockford Fosgate makes great amps, Wolfram Audio (much cheaper) does also. I run 2 Wolfram Audio W3000.1's, they are rock solid and sound great. You really can't go wrong on subwoofer amps unless you try really hard.
 

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Hard to recommend something without a budget. You could even go with a 5 channel amp if you want get some power for the fronts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hard to recommend something without a budget. You could even go with a 5 channel amp if you want get some power for the fronts.
Dammit, forgot the budget.
I have a Skar RP-1200.1D on order ($170), but started having second thoughts due to a post I read about them not being very stable at 1-ohm.
Running it well below it's limits, so not expecting any issues.
If Skar is a bad choice, I'm willing to go up to about $400 for something better now.
Otherwise, I'll live with it for now and move onto a different brand/model when I upgrade the mids and highs.
 

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Personally I wouldn't buy skar due to issues with the company/owner. I doubt the amp is complete garbage, its just a subwoofer amp after all. You dont need something super audiophile quality for a sub amp.

There are some taramps amps I've kinda wanted to check out. Big disclaimer, i've heard they dont like low voltage situations but the small size and power are appealing to me. There are full bridge amps from sundown audio and others they are probably better quality for a similar size.

If you want go with a mainstream brand pioneer has this for 300$ Pioneer GM-DX971 Limited Edition mono subwoofer amplifier — 1,200 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm at Crutchfield

Other brands like US acoustic have some good options as well for $300
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like I was able to cancel the Skar amp order.
I still have a set of MB Quart amps from my last system, ONX1.1000d and ONX4.80. Both are CEA-2006 compliant.
I was considering going with the Kicker CXA800.1 and CXA360.4.

Any sense in "upgrading" other than cosmetics and the vertical mounting option?
Is a 6-8 year newer amp any more efficient?
 

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Use the old gear. Watts are watts. You're not pulling enough power to worry about efficiency.

Spend that extra cash on a DSP, sound deadener, or something that will actually make a difference.
 

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Dammit, forgot the budget.
I have a Skar RP-1200.1D on order ($170), but started having second thoughts due to a post I read about them not being very stable at 1-ohm.
Running it well below it's limits, so not expecting any issues.
If Skar is a bad choice, I'm willing to go up to about $400 for something better now.
Otherwise, I'll live with it for now and move onto a different brand/model when I upgrade the mids and highs.
I think you can get one of those Rockfords for about $400, refurbished.
 
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