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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
My semi-budget 3-way system is starting to come together, but I need some help picking out the midrange. I have a 2018 Mazda6, which has a 9"in the doors, 3.5" in the dash corners, and tweeter in the door sail panels. I would like to keep everything in stock locations for the simple fact that I have no experience with making pods/pillars, and I don't really have the workspace setup to start experimenting. Best I can do is maybe 3D printing some replacement sail panel mounts to get the tweeters more on-axis, but again, I have no experience with this. I do have access to the equipment through a local makerspace, though.

Anyway, here is what I currently have:

Tweeters: ScanSpeak Illuminator D2004/6020-00 3/4"
Midrange: TBD
Midbass: Volvo/Dynaudio MW180
Subwoofers: TBD
- I currently have a pair of Image Dynamics OEM 10s from an old build, but I am thinking of selling them and going to a single 12 or 15"

As for budget, I'm looking at $200-400. I'd prefer to stay lower in that range, but would go higher if it meant getting a significantly better speaker. I can get the Dynaudio MD140s for $400. I'm assuming they should work well with the MW180s since they're part of the same line/system, but I know there are a ton of options out there. I'm not picky on brand. I live about 45 minutes from Madisound, so I might be able to stop by and listen to some of their inventory (they didn't have a great demo setup the last time I went there several years ago, but they did have some stuff on display).

For reference, here are the Response plots for the Scans and the Dynaudios. Apologies for the image quality on the Dyns. I could only find low-res PDFs of that info.

Rectangle Slope Font Plot Parallel



MW180
Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Pattern
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just looked through her reviews, and picked that one out as a possibility. I'd still like to get some more opinions, though.
 

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The problem you're going to run into is that most 4" midranges start to lobe between 1kHz and 2kHz and most 3" drivers won't reach below 300Hz so you should probably prioritize which xover point you are most interested in...

Example two 4" drivers from the same manufacturer - one for highs and one for lows:
High - W4-1337SDF
Low - W4-1720

Not that I'm recommending Tang Band - just an example of the compromise.

For a budget, middle of the road gem the Dayton RS100-4 is about as good as you can get for the money. Back to back comparison with the Morel DPC Variant revealed very little difference in performance at normal listening levels in micro monitors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The problem you're going to run into is that most 4" midranges start to lobe between 1kHz and 2kHz and most 3" drivers won't reach below 300Hz so you should probably prioritize which xover point you are most interested in...

Example two 4" drivers from the same manufacturer - one for highs and one for lows:
High - W4-1337SDF
Low - W4-1720

Not that I'm recommending Tang Band - just an example of the compromise.

For a budget, middle of the road gem the Dayton RS100-4 is about as good as you can get for the money. Back to back comparison with the Morel DPC Variant revealed very little difference in performance at normal listening levels in micro monitors.
Sorry if I'm misunderstanding, but I don't think I need the Midrange to go all that low. The Dynaudio Midbass looks like it can play up to 1 KHz before the on/off-axis response starts to differ significantly.
 

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Sorry if I'm misunderstanding, but I don't think I need the Midrange to go all that low. The Dynaudio Midbass looks like it can play up to 1 KHz before the on/off-axis response starts to differ significantly.
But you don’t want it to play upto 1khz and come from below your knee regardless, you want as much as possible from above that level, be that front edge of the door or a pillars
 

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No, your good and that's the information you need. But running the midbass up to 400-600Hz is plenty (and maybe not that much even) but trying to find a 4" that can go to 2kHz or a 3" that goes down to 300Hz is tough without artifacts.

So even a 2" wideband in an adapter for the factory 3.5" dash corner would work from 600 and up and then you're looking at basically at only the very top end sparkle from the tweeters.

The CDT Unity series or AF GB25 would be contenders but then we have to talk about budget vs the MD140...

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No, your good and that's the information you need. But running the midbass up to 400-600Hz is plenty (and maybe not that much even) but trying to find a 4" that can go to 2kHz or a 3" that goes down to 300Hz is tough without artifacts.

So even a 2" wideband in an adapter for the factory 3.5" dash corner would work from 600 and up and then you're looking at basically at only the very top end sparkle from the tweeters.

The CDT Unity series or AF GB25 would be contenders but then we have to talk about budget vs the MD140...

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I read through Erin's review of the MW182s, which I believe to be similar to the Volvo drivers. She recommends crossing them at or below 500 Hz to avoid higher-frequency distortion. So something that can go ~4-500 Hz to ~3 KHz should be appropriate, no?
 

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Erin doesn't look like a she to me. Admittedly, the spelling of his name is more typical of a female.
Clothing Forehead Nose Hair Cheek
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Do I need to worry at all about power handling matching up with the other drivers? Dyns should be rated at somewhere between 150w (MW172) and 180w (MW182). The Illuminator tweeters are rated at 50w. The 10f is only rated for 10w. I obviously don't have to use full power, but I don't want to handicap the other drivers, either. Are the 10f that sensitive that they'd be able to keep up on such little power?
 

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I've found the Stereo Integrity M3 to work well between my 7" midbass & tweeters. I've been running the M3 between 400Hz & 3,200 Hz /24db. No beaming at these frequencies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Erin doesn't look like a she to me. Admittedly, the spelling of his name is more typical of a female.
View attachment 343541
My bad. I've spent my whole life correcting people (my name is Aaron), and I don't know that I've ever met a man named Erin. Just sort of assumed.
 

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My bad. I've spent my whole life correcting people (my name is Aaron), and I don't know that I've ever met a man named Erin. Just sort of assumed.
Haha, how perfect that your name is Aaron. Easy mistake to make, I'm sure it's not the first time Erin has heard this.
 

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wouldn't scanspeak 10f's be the go to then?

erin has some measurements here: Driveunits
I see no apparent reason not to go with 10f
IF the Scanspeak 10F will fit (it is nearly 4" diameter at 3-13/16"), I agree that it'd be a good option given the budget. But as Erin stated in his review, you would want to go with the 4-ohm Midrange version (not the Full-Range) for your purposes:




@Hintzyboy Have you checked and measured the OEM dash speaker locations to see what maximum speaker basket/frame diameter and depth will fit without modifications?

Typically there will be plastic HVAC vent tubing or other obstructions just under the dash speaker openings.

Given the budget, and regardless, I'm still a big fan of the Xcelsus XXM325 due to its price/performance ratio. Less than $200 Shipped from:



Here are my actual physical measurements of the XXM325 to check for fitment in your OEM dash locations:

Overall Diameter: 92mm or 3-9/16" outer flange.

Mounting Hole Cutout Diameter: 76mm or 2-15/16"+

Top Mounting Depth: 39mm or 1.5"

Mounting Flange Thickness: 5mm or 3/16"+

And some photos (not mine) to get an idea of their physical size:





The XXT30 Tweeters are fantastic as well (though large) and you can get about $100 OFF right now on a package XXM325/XXT30 deal from NonSoloSpeakers...

 

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IF the Scanspeak 10F will fit (it is nearly 4" diameter at 3-13/16"), I agree that it'd be a good option given the budget. But as Erin stated in his review, you would want to go with the 4-ohm Midrange version (not the Full-Range) for your purposes:




@Hintzyboy Have you checked and measured the OEM dash speaker locations to see what maximum speaker basket/frame diameter and depth will fit without modifications?

Typically there will be plastic HVAC vent tubing or other obstructions just under the dash speaker openings.

Given the budget, I'm still a big fan of the Xcelsus XXM325 due to its price/performance ratio. Less than $200 Shipped from:



Here are my actual physical measurements of the XXM325 to check for fitment in your OEM dash locations:

Overall Diameter: 92mm or 3-9/16" outer flange.

Mounting Hole Cutout Diameter: 76mm or 2-15/16"+

Top Mounting Depth: 39mm or 1.5"

Mounting Flange Thickness: 5mm or 3/16"+
It depends on what the low end crossover will need to be… the g10 version is capable of playing lower and will still have good low distortion… I am toying with the scans for my car, depending how kicks go and where they play to will determine which model I choose
 

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It depends on what the low end crossover will need to be… the g10 version is capable of playing lower and will still have good low distortion… I am toying with the scans for my car, depending how kicks go and where they play to will determine which model I choose
True. They are almost interchangable. But I think his midbass are plenty capable to play up to either of the 4-ohm 10F versions. 250Hz-350Hz should be easily achievable by both drivers without detriment. And he'll get a bit of added low-end gain due to boundary loading in the corner dash top locations as well. And personally, the +4dB gain in Sensitivity with the Midrange version is significant to me moreso than their minimal HPF cutoff differences. The Fullrange version might offer more options in the XO to the Scan tweeters, tho'. But I doubt that'd be an issue either way.

Still, I would go with the XXM325. ;)
 
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