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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm reading what I feel or understand to be very contradictory explaination of relays and suppression diodes.

I'm hooking a relay triggered by my dsp's remote out.

Now, the first pic is my relay. It shows anode side (which is described to be the positive side that lets current through) hooked to ground.

And the cathode side (which is described on bcae1 as being negative ground side) hooked to positive.

I want to trigger coil with remote out which will supply 12v to my amps remote inputs.

But if I hook the diode up in picture 1, with positive to 86 as it says on relay, wouldn't that let the collapsing magnetic field spine of voltage go to my dsp remote out and kill it?

I just want to protect my dsp.
 

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What are you trying to achieve? Delaying the 12v remote output from the DSP to amps?
He wants to remove the load from the source remote and add a relay, no delay or anything

the answer is the exact same as on your other thread or maybe a post on Facebook I answered, the diode prevents back emf from going up the remote lead, your still overthinking a relay
 

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you should be good using the diode protected relay by itself, no need to add additional external diodes. Just use the setup as you are describing with that relay you have. it'll be good.

The additional diode that is mentioned in bcae screenshots would do the same thing as the built in protected diode.

the diode protects the metal relay switch contacts themselves (inside the relay) and electronics on the output side of the relay, your dsp remote output would be connected to the input side to energize the coil. the flyback voltage or back emf voltage that would be created during turn-off is only on the output side of the relay & the presence of the built-in diode protects the set-up from it, so you will have no issues. you would be double protected.

also the issue bcae is describing is just talking about the polarity of how you would connect the output side of the load. just use relay only, it will work nice.

what is the part number for the relay? how many devices will you be turning on/off with the relay? how much current draw?
 

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the bcae article is just saying dont use 2x diodes & then furthermore, do not hook them up backwards to each other if you do have 2x diodes. make sure they are in the same orientation.

but you dont need an external diode anyway, just use the built in one with the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool thank you for your help guys somebody posted a video in my Facebook post and it was from Clayton and he showed that the diode or I'm sorry the relay itself is actually going to probably draw more current from my remote turn on than my four amplifiers.

He was literally showing like a 1 milliamp draw for the remote turn on and he expressly said you never ever use a relay.

So it's leading me to believe that this whole relay thing in remote turn on voltages something that was needed back in the day and is no longer an issue with tire remote turn on voltages with modern head unit ipment the same thing with amplifiers and their reduced turn on

Again this is all assumption on my part but the video kind of made it clearly obvious that I'm okay turning on for amplifiers

It's 3 B² audio reference for amplifiers in one Rockford Fosgate 2500
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So my relay picture I would be hooking my remote turn on from my DSP to the positive coil side of the relay?

See that's what I'm kind of confused as current flows that direction when I want to not flow in that direction?

And the reason why I'm asking this now is because I had the relay hooked up exactly as it was told to be hooked up you know and now I'm replacing a DSP
 

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So my relay picture I would be hooking my remote turn on from my DSP to the positive coil side of the relay?

See that's what I'm kind of confused as current flows that direction when I want to not flow in that direction?

And the reason why I'm asking this now is because I had the relay hooked up exactly as it was told to be hooked up you know and now I'm replacing a DSP
Nothing to do with the relay unless the diode has died badly
 

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wait so you had damaged a DSP before? you think it is related to using a relay on the remote output? need more details on that part. what DSP?

So to answer the question accurately....you need to know how much current the DSP remote on pin can supply.... like 0.5A? 1A? the company should be able to tell you that spec.

Then you need to know how much current the relay will draw.... you need to know the coil resistance in order to calculate that. Can you get that info? - This is the smart way to do it. :)

You need to make sure whatever you hook-up to the remote output will draw less current than the pin can output.

So my relay picture I would be hooking my remote turn on from my DSP to the positive coil side of the relay?

See that's what I'm kind of confused as current flows that direction when I want to not flow in that direction?

And the reason why I'm asking this now is because I had the relay hooked up exactly as it was told to be hooked up you know and now I'm replacing a DSP
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
DSP is a Helix. It outs out 500 ma.

As far as the DSP, it's brand new. Installed it into vehicle with relay hooked up properly (checked prior to hooking to DSP my sending 12v to the positive 86 leg of the DSP.

Turn on car, and nothing, dsp didn't power up. Amps didn't either

The dsp let connection to computer thru, I was able to set-up I/O menu, and xovers.

But as soon as you unhooked the USB from computer and turned car back on it wouldn't power up. As soon as you give it USB connection to PC, it would come on and stay on (but still won't or didn't send voltage out to it's remote output pin)

So I called msc and me and Larry trouble shot it for about an hour. We removed it from car, jumped power to remote in, and nothing. Only comes on after you hook it to 12v and you connect PC.

They determined it was a bad dsp, even had me look inside for any obviously burnt traces or components. Nothing was found out of the ordinary. They are giving me a demo model to replace it, as it's discontinued and they had nothing in stock on their end, and won't have any again, as the mark 3 is slated to come out

Only I have to wait, as the case for the demo replacement unit is very rough, and they won't send something with that physical condition to a customer.

So I'm sending it in and they are going to swap cases to my case with the demo DSP board.

Which I'm perfectly fine with, as msc Larry has bent over backwards helping diagnose that dsp with me that day, it was even after buisness hours and he provided me with his personal cell number if I had any more problems.

As far as the relay ruining it, it is speculation, as I didn't test unit prior to installing because it was brand new. But I bought it in January, and didn't install it till June 18th.

Could be coincidence, I dunno. I would think it should have powered up once at least as the collapsing magnetic field happens during relay shut down, and I didn't even get the first power up.

But based on the video of the gladen technician showing that the amps are only drawing about a milliamp to turn on I don't need a relay.
 

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DSP is a Helix. It outs out 500 ma.

As far as the DSP, it's brand new. Installed it into vehicle with relay hooked up properly (checked prior to hooking to DSP my sending 12v to the positive 86 leg of the DSP.

Turn on car, and nothing, dsp didn't power up. Amps didn't either

The dsp let connection to computer thru, I was able to set-up I/O menu, and xovers.

But as soon as you unhooked the USB from computer and turned car back on it wouldn't power up. As soon as you give it USB connection to PC, it would come on and stay on (but still won't or didn't send voltage out to it's remote output pin)

So I called msc and me and Larry trouble shot it for about an hour. We removed it from car, jumped power to remote in, and nothing. Only comes on after you hook it to 12v and you connect PC.

They determined it was a bad dsp, even had me look inside for any obviously burnt traces or components. Nothing was found out of the ordinary. They are giving me a demo model to replace it, as it's discontinued and they had nothing in stock on their end, and won't have any again, as the mark 3 is slated to come out

Only I have to wait, as the case for the demo replacement unit is very rough, and they won't send something with that physical condition to a customer.

So I'm sending it in and they are going to swap cases to my case with the demo DSP board.

Which I'm perfectly fine with, as msc Larry has bent over backwards helping diagnose that dsp with me that day, it was even after buisness hours and he provided me with his personal cell number if I had any more problems.

As far as the relay ruining it, it is speculation, as I didn't test unit prior to installing because it was brand new. But I bought it in January, and didn't install it till June 18th.

Could be coincidence, I dunno. I would think it should have powered up once at least as the collapsing magnetic field happens during relay shut down, and I didn't even get the first power up.

But based on the video of the gladen technician showing that the amps are only drawing about a milliamp to turn on I don't need a relay.
Are you trying to take load off the dsp to amps?
 
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