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The first thing I'd like to do is thank Vinh from Team Toxic Bass for this article.

This article explains step by step how you can repair a damaged ribbon element by using kitchen aluminum foil. Of course you can always contact DiyMobileAudio for ribbon replacements as well. The only difference is that the kitchen foil is a tiny tiny bit thicker. As far as I can tell, there's very little difference. The kitchen foil has perhaps slightly lower sensitivity, but a slightly smoother top end. Feel free to experiment with different size wrinkles, tensioning, and width.

This example uses the LCY 130 tweeter, but more or less all the drivers from AC, Fountek, and LCY can be repaired in a similar fashion.

01: All tools needed. Aluminum Foil, Ruler, Razor, Rippled Bottle Caps. You can also try experimenting with different brands of aluminum foil, copper foil tape, etc. but that's an entirely different topic.



02: Holding sercurely both allen-tool and bolt with both hands, remove
the bolts. (Note: Try not to hold allen-tool or bolt directly over
ribbon cavity / magnetic field)



03: Bolts will be sucked in.



04: Without bringing allen-tool directly over ribbon cavity, unscrew
bolts. Take out allen-bolt and allen-tool, holding them both
securely.



05: ..or else.



06: After metal bolts are removed, remove protective tape and plastic
(ribbon) holding blocks.



07: If you cannot measure original ribbon element measure ribbon
cavity for ribbon width.



08: With a ruler, flatten out wrinkles on the piece of aluminum foil,
on a flat surface.



09: Using the ruler and razor, cut one straight side.



10: Measure and mark, with the razor, the width needed for the ribbon.



11: New ribbon element cut to size.



12: Two bottle caps held together for ribbon ripple making.



13: Its all in the technique... feel free to experiement with small and large ripples.



14: Plastic holding blocks are different in size. Make sure you put
them where theyre suppose to go. (Note: Sticky glue on ribbon-side of
holding blocks)



15: Placing the new ribbon element in as straight as possible. Place
the plastic holding block in as straight as possible (Note: Glue on
plastic holding block will prevent you from moving/twisting straight
once it is pressed down onto the ribbon - without twisting the ribbon
element). Holding allen-bolt sercurely, place inside hole. Then
holding allen-tool sercurely, screw in allen-bolt.



16: HOLD YOUR TOOLS (AND BOLTS) SERCURELY!!! :(



17: New ribbons in. Feel free to experiment with the tension of the ribbons between the blocks... either loosening them with a bit of sag or stretching them tight. If you just want to repair the ribbon, set the ribbon between the blocks identical to the stock ribbon.



18: Cut off excess ribbon element.



19: Place protective tape back on.



20: Holden bolts and tools sercurely, reassemble ribbon tweeter.



21: Finished.

 

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:eek:

Its Team Toxic Treble now..! :p :D :) 8) :lol:
 

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I'm really loving the user-friendly service of these things!
 

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more reference..

 

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How is it you can just use random foil and random ribs when doing this? I would think that the element used would be a huge determinant in how it will sound.
 

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Thats the thing......Different techniques, width of ribs, tension and really everything will change the sound i'd think.......Thats really the beauty of them not to mention there overall appeal for sq.

Basically you can talor your sound if you wanted from changing the foil and the way you make the foil.
 

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Sure you can get results with it. But you can with a typical driver too. It doesnt mean you will end up with the same...or even an acceptable speaker.
 

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Didn't mention the fact that all that taloiring can lead to both extreems, a very good sound, or all of the messing around could lead to a sound that you won't really like.....trial and error i guess.
 

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HMMMMMMMMMMMMMM.....

http://www.reynoldskitchens.com/reynoldskitchens/kitchenconnection/products/reynolds_wrap/index.asp

^according to this site, Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil is around 0.045" (45 mil thick)

http://www.glassmart.com/foil_menu.htm

did some searching around and found some 1.5 mil thick COPPER FOIL. :D

Knowing that the aluminum foil (in first post) is slightly thicker then the actual foil used in the original LCY ribbon element, this might make a nice choice for new ribbon elements! 8)

unfortunately, LCY ribbon elements are wider then the largest width of copper foil they have available (1/2"). So this might make a nice choice for someone with single band ribbons (Aurum Cantus, Fountek, etc)...
 

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the lcy 130 foil isn't one whole piece. It's cut into 2 smaller foil sheets. So you wouldn't need like a 3/4 inch piece of foil to pleat... just do like 2 2/5" width foils. I'm not sure on the exact measurements of the ribbon but it's something like that.
 

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daitrong said:
the lcy 130 foil isn't one whole piece. It's cut into 2 smaller foil sheets. So you wouldn't need like a 3/4 inch piece of foil to pleat... just do like 2 2/5" width foils. I'm not sure on the exact measurements of the ribbon but it's something like that.
you need to take a closer look at your LCY ribbons..

its one piece with a slit down the middle.. :wink:

trust me, ive been playing with the LCY quite a lot and i have an extra *original/replacement* ribbon element in my drawer...

anyways, even if i/we/somebody uses 2 thin pieces, it should be (nearly) the same.

if nobodies going to take this up, im probably going to try this for everybody and have Mr. Dang measure it - since i have an extra ribbon element, afterall....
 

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the slit ends at the very tip of both ends.. which makes it essentially 2 separate elements. manufature probably made the slit so it'll be easier to install replace... but yea, essentially it is 2 separte ribbons..

let us know when u experienment with the diff materials. :D
 

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Just curious about the construction of all those ribbon tweeter motors. It seems from the photos and drawings in this thread, all three (Aurum Cantus/ Fountek , LCY and Raven) use magnets that are essentially rectangular in cross section but have their corners facing the gap cut off at 45°, resulting in cut-off triangles facing the ribbon.

Are those cut of rectangles solid Nd magnets or do they consist of iron with a magnet buried somewhere inside?

Is there an iron return path connecting the outward facing sides of the magnets?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can't speak for the other ribbons, but for the LCY's it appears to be a plastic block with the magnets behind or underneath.
 

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yup..yup! the rectangle magnets are 90° to the ribbon element with plastic molded top with 45° coners towards the ribbon cavity.
 

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So are those rectangle things with the 45° corners solid Nd magnets or iron with some magnets hidden inside or at the outwards pointing sides?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I really couldn't say with the LCY's. With the Fountek jp2 there is a piece of steel with a 45 degree cut under the plastic one, with the neo magnets to the side and under.
 

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One of my LCY110 died. I have tried replacing the element with kitchen foil and it is alive again :) I was thinking of getting the original element replacement from LCY, but where could I buy it online ? thanks !
 
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