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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
Over the past week I finally got to upgrading my system (install thread to come if interested) I amped the front components with an MRV T420 to give my SPS 600C 110w per. As I was beginning the tuning process (high passed at 400 and 0 bass eq) I turned my HU up to 25/35 and started turning up the gain. Around a quarter turn the front tweeters cut out and I could smell a strong burnt smell (S***) The front woofers also sound quieter and more muffled. So two things:

1. I'll probably get reamed out here for improper gain setting :shame:. Please be constructive in criticizing. We all make mistakes; mistakes = learning

2. I'm looking to either get something that will do for now (6-12 month span) or get something that COULD carry into the next installs.. ~$60 cap preferably.

All help is appreciated
 

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Hello all,
Over the past week I finally got to upgrading my system (install thread to come if interested) I amped the front components with an MRV T420 to give my SPS 600C 110w per. As I was beginning the tuning process (high passed at 400 and 0 bass eq) I turned my HU up to 25/35 and started turning up the gain. Around a quarter turn the front tweeters cut out and I could smell a strong burnt smell (S***) The front woofers also sound quieter and more muffled. So two things:

1. I'll probably get reamed out here for improper gain setting :shame:. Please be constructive in criticizing. We all make mistakes; mistakes = learning

2. I'm looking to either get something that will do for now (6-12 month span) or get something that COULD carry into the next installs.. ~$60 cap preferably.

All help is appreciated
Well, a couple things. We can't criticize for improper gains because it doesn't look like you even got to set them. Why did you have the highpass on when setting gains? Stupid question, did you have the tweeters and woofers connected properly to the crossover? Something doesn't make sense here. If you want to you could get some small format home audio tweets for less than you'd pay for car audio tweets. All I use anymore are home audio drivers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Spyke

The connections to the crossover had male/female connections on them so there was only one way to make them so. They worked fine when connected to the HU and I played them reasonably loud.

Was I not supposed to have the highpass on when setting gains? Here's the thing: I installed a Fi IB315 sub, but to play the fronts loud, I have to keep the bass at -7, since the fronts distort with anymore bass, which keeps the sub from pounding (even with the sub setting on the HU 10/15) SO I tried putting the bass at -5 and figured I would have the fronts played above 400 to prevent much bass and go from there setting the gain... Was this reely stoopid in thought process?
 

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Spyke

The connections to the crossover had male/female connections on them so there was only one way to make them so. They worked fine when connected to the HU and I played them reasonably loud.
Was I not supposed to have the highpass on when setting gains?
No. The hpf should be off when setting gains.

Here's the thing: I installed a Fi IB315 sub, but to play the fronts loud, I have to keep the bass at -7, since the fronts distort with anymore bass, which keeps the sub from pounding (even with the sub setting on the HU 10/15) SO I tried putting the bass at -5 and figured I would have the fronts played above 400 to prevent much bass and go from there setting the gain... Was this reely stoopid in thought process?
The level of the sub should not affect the front speakers at all. Having the front speakers highpassed at 400hz will not only block bass but also a good chunk of midrange(not good for sound quality) I'll put it this way, I don't understand your thought process. I know this wasn't part of your question, but how did you set the gain for the sub? Also, do you have a dmm(digital multimeter)? What kind of headunit do you have? Are you setting the hp and lp filters on the amps or the hu?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
These get my vote over the alpines all day long.
Would I be able to wire these to the alpine passive crossovers already in place? I not quite ready to go active and get processors and eq's and such. At this point they're above my head
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No. The hpf should be off when setting gains.



The level of the sub should not affect the front speakers at all. Having the front speakers highpassed at 400hz will not only block bass but also a good chunk of midrange(not good for sound quality) I'll put it this way, I don't understand your thought process. I know this wasn't part of your question, but how did you set the gain for the sub? Also, do you have a dmm(digital multimeter)? What kind of headunit do you have? Are you setting the hp and lp filters on the amps or the hu?
I haven't gotten to setting up/tuning the subwoofer. I wanted to start with the fronts then move back. I do not have a dmm, but it seems like I should invest in one soon. And I have an Alpine CDE-121 HU and Alpine SPS-619 in the rear deck running off of an alpine powerpack. In all honesty, I'm finding that I'm really lost when it comes to tuning and such.. it's rather overwhelming for a starter.:blush:
 

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For starters, Get some test tones and a DMM. 40 or 60hz for the sub amp and 1khz for the mid/high amp. Find a gain setting tutorial about setting amps with a dmm(It may be a little overwhelming but it's fairly basic) As far as tweeter choices, you need to look at ohm rating when using a passive xo(crossover) Since the alpines are fried you can't check the resistance of the coil(see what a good tool a dmm is):D Honestly, you will prob pay almost as much to just replace the tweeters on that set. Buy a new comp set and start over. Post back BEFORE you do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
No. The hpf should be off when setting gains. The level of the sub should not affect the front speakers at all.
Okay so rereading through this thread I think I wasn't clear. When I said to keep the fronts loud I have to keep the bass at -7, this is the bass setting on the hu. So less bass to fronts = less distortion = less bass to sub = not as much sub as I like. :(

Are you setting the hp and lp filters on the amps or the hu?
I didn't touch those at all when I tried tuning. This Hu has a "bass setting" (60, 80, 100, and 120) and a "treble setting" (7.5, 10, 12.5, 15). I'm guessing the bass is 60hz filter, etc... and the treble 7500hz filter, etc...

For starters, Get some test tones and a DMM. 40 or 60hz for the sub amp and 1khz for the mid/high amp. Find a gain setting tutorial about setting amps with a dmm(It may be a little overwhelming but it's fairly basic)
Okay I'm with you so far. Just as a quick reference, would This Multimeter work? Or would I need one with more bells and whistles? :laugh:

As far as tweeter choices, you need to look at ohm rating when using a passive xo(crossover) Since the alpines are fried you can't check the resistance of the coil(see what a good tool a dmm is):D Honestly, you will prob pay almost as much to just replace the tweeters on that set. Buy a new comp set and start over. Post back BEFORE you do anything.
:worried: I'm sorry if I sound cheap so far and in the coming sentences, I'm well passed my budget for this audio upgrade, still haven't found work and have to pay for summer school (But I'm still looking!... when I'm not on here :laugh:). SO with that in mind, would buying the "upgraded" (practically the same) alpine components fit your "new components" description. Since they are only $30 more then the Vifa or alpine replacement tweeters? Keeping in mind that everything other then the sub is my first "budget system" and will be scrapped when I upgrade cars. I'm currently working out of a family car, on loan per se with 225k

Sorry for the long post, and thank you all for listening, especially Spyke for helping so much! :)
 

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Okay so rereading through this thread I think I wasn't clear. When I said to keep the fronts loud I have to keep the bass at -7, this is the bass setting on the hu. So less bass to fronts = less distortion = less bass to sub = not as much sub as I like. :(
Oh ok. I thought you meant the sub level. Ok, first off you should not be eq'ing anything until everything is set up. I never use eq period. Start with everything set to 0 with no bass boost or anything.

I didn't touch those at all when I tried tuning. This Hu has a "bass setting" (60, 80, 100, and 120) and a "treble setting" (7.5, 10, 12.5, 15). I'm guessing the bass is 60hz filter, etc... and the treble 7500hz filter, etc...
Ok, never mind the 60,80,etc or the 7.5,10.0 etc. Those are just the center freq for the bass and treble adjustment. It's part of the eq adjustment which should remain flat at this point.
Okay I'm with you so far. Just as a quick reference, would This Multimeter work? Or would I need one with more bells and whistles? :laugh:
Any mutimeter will do. I break them at work a lot so I use ones that cost $2 each.:D
:worried: I'm sorry if I sound cheap so far and in the coming sentences, I'm well passed my budget for this audio upgrade, still haven't found work and have to pay for summer school (But I'm still looking!... when I'm not on here :laugh:). SO with that in mind, would buying the "upgraded" (practically the same) alpine components fit your "new components" description. Since they are only $30 more then the Vifa or alpine replacement tweeters? Keeping in mind that everything other then the sub is my first "budget system" and will be scrapped when I upgrade cars. I'm currently working out of a family car, on loan per se with 225k
Yes. That would be fine. And that's what I was talking about since, like you said, they would only be slightly more than just buying the tweeters. I looked at your hu manual and it doesn't appear to have high or low pass filters. I know you are on a budget but damn that's basic. No offense.:p You will have to use the filters on your amps but we'll get to that when you get everything installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oh ok. I thought you meant the sub level. Ok, first off you should not be eq'ing anything until everything is set up. I never use eq period. Start with everything set to 0 with no bass boost or anything
mkay

Ok, never mind the 60,80,etc or the 7.5,10.0 etc. Those are just the center freq for the bass and treble adjustment. It's part of the eq adjustment which should remain flat at this point.
mkay mkay
Any mutimeter will do. I break them at work a lot so I use ones that cost $2 each.:D
lol :laugh:

Yes. That would be fine. And that's what I was talking about since, like you said, they would only be slightly more than just buying the tweeters
Two things here: 1) I checked both front speakers today and they're actually fine. They sounded dead because I cranked the gain all the way down after the tweeters fried. 2) I went to my pops for his opinion (and just saying, he's literally Always right when it comes to these kind of money decisions .It's annoying :mad:. So I'm going to use what I have and just replace the tweeters.

I looked at your hu manual and it doesn't appear to have high or low pass filters. I know you are on a budget but damn that's basic. No offense.:p
:bucktooth: I know I know! It was my first buy last year when I really didn't know anything (well I still don't know anything :laugh:). I should've done more research.

You will have to use the filters on your amps but we'll get to that when you get everything installed.
:cool2: jive
 

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These sound good and handle abuse well.:)

TW


Hello all,
Over the past week I finally got to upgrading my system (install thread to come if interested) I amped the front components with an MRV T420 to give my SPS 600C 110w per. As I was beginning the tuning process (high passed at 400 and 0 bass eq) I turned my HU up to 25/35 and started turning up the gain. Around a quarter turn the front tweeters cut out and I could smell a strong burnt smell (S***) The front woofers also sound quieter and more muffled. So two things:

1. I'll probably get reamed out here for improper gain setting :shame:. Please be constructive in criticizing. We all make mistakes; mistakes = learning

2. I'm looking to either get something that will do for now (6-12 month span) or get something that COULD carry into the next installs.. ~$60 cap preferably.

All help is appreciated
 
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