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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 Silverado Crew Cab, currently running a Fox Acoustic single 10" sub box, tuned at 36Hz w/ 1.1 ft internal air volume. Pushing it with a NVX VAD10001 class D mono amp (400x2 @ 4ohm, 700x2 @ 2ohm, 1000x1 @ 1ohm) with a DC audio 900w rms sub but it's 1ohm dvc so I'm running at 2ohm @ 700w.
Going to replace the sub & wondering what's the best option?
I found a DC Audio level 4 D2 it's 2ohm rms1400 watts but I'll have to alter box a little cause it sits deeper than the current.
DC Audio also has a level 3 D2 that is 900w rms dvc 2ohm (same as what I have but 2ohm so it'll fit in my box & draw 1000w)
So my question is:
A. Should I choose one of the above?
B. Is there another sub in the $500 range that would be better? Or
C. Do I bite the bullet & order a new box to go with two tens instead?

Oh yeah, for the Mids/Highs I'm running the:
• Alpine X Series 4x120 rms amp.
• The X-S65C components & X-S65 coaxial both in front.
• The Alpine KTA-450 50w rms x 4 bridged to a set of Massive Audio P65X 120w rms in the rear.
 

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If you have the room, and are willing to give up the room, I would go with the bigger box with (2) 10s, or single 12 / 15.

Spending $500 on a different sub and putting it in the same box will probably be disappointing.
 

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If you're gonna get a new box, I'd go with 2 sealed 12s. Space is the biggest hold up in the truck, adding all that cone area will help.


That box can accommodate 7" of depth and has decent space for a sealed configuration without having to go with the seat lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'd have to relocate my amps but I could make the room. The current sub does pretty good, missing a little I think. When I first hooked it up I wired it wrong & sizzled the vc's a little so between that & being about 300 watts short I know it would be a lot better with the one new sub. The new box is $250 plus I'd have to figure out my best option on what 2 subs to go with & would have that cost as well. That's why I'm wondering if there would be that big of a difference. Any particular reasons for you thinking it'd be better to change it all over to two subs?
 

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I like the response from a sealed configuration mostly and 2 is twice as much cone area, and cone area ftw in my opinion. If I was willing to give up the 40 part of the rear split bench I'd do a single 15 in a big box but I'm not ready to take that plunge
 

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I'd have to relocate my amps but I could make the room. The current sub does pretty good, missing a little I think. When I first hooked it up I wired it wrong & sizzled the vc's a little so between that & being about 300 watts short I know it would be a lot better with the one new sub. The new box is $250 plus I'd have to figure out my best option on what 2 subs to go with & would have that cost as well. That's why I'm wondering if there would be that big of a difference. Any particular reasons for you thinking it'd be better to change it all over to two subs?
What do you think it is missing? You could look into building a good ported box yourself for your current sub. If your sub plays fine the voice coils are fine. More cone area is more efficient, but too much cone are in a small box effects frequency response.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I'm definitely missing 300 watts of my amps capabilities. I like a very wide variety of music and the songs that are real hard/deep base it's fine but some songs are missing a good bit on the low end. Using the DD1 to set the gains, whether conservative or loud there's not enough bass at all. I have to crank the bass boost 3/4 of the way up & crank the gains up a good bit to get it to blend with the rest. Some songs I still have to turn the sub level up on the deck h if I get to heavy I'll start smelling voice coils. It's a ported box, out the rear, tuned to 36 Hz with 1.1 cu. ft of interior air space. Supposed to be a real good one. Bought from Fox Acoustics.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't really want to have to relocate the amps & buy a new box unless there's definitely a huge advantage to doing that.
 

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You wont gain much by an additional 300 watts when you already have 700 going to a single 10. Missing low end is a sign that the box isn't big enough and tuned low enough. If the sub isn't meant for that small of a box, you may benefit from getting a different sub that is designed for smaller boxes.

If you are listening to different sources (radio, phone, etc) the level might not be the same, so some songs will need the bass turned up.

If you're smelling the voice coil you could be clipping the signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The box is tuned to 36 Hz with 1.1 cu ft of air space. The sub only calls for 1 cu ft. I am definitely clipping the signal because of having to turn the gain up to get sufficient bass from the sub.
I just really need to know is there a huge difference between a 1000 watt single sub in a properly fitted & tuned box compared to two subs of same wattage in the right box. Is there a big enough difference for the work involved in going to two?
 

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Do you know anyone with systems that you could compare to? 700 watts is a lot of power and it should get pretty loud as long as everything is installed properly and working correctly. Not sure how loud you listen to music though.

There will be a significant difference going to two subs in a good box, especially on a true 700 watts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No I don't know anyone with a system, like I said in the original post, I actually bought the wrong sub, then wired it wrong & put 1000 watts to 1 voice coil on a 900 watt dvc 1 ohm sub h after sizzling the one vc I wired it to a 2 ohm load @ 700 watts which I think is the main reason I'm not happy with it. Now that I'm going to replace it, I'll be going to either a single 900 watt or I spend the extra money & put in the new box with two subs at 1000w. So I'm trying to figure out if the gain of going to two is worth the extra cost.
 

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I went from a single SD3 10 in .6 sealed to 2 Alpine Type S 12s with 1 ft³ sealed each and it made a significant difference.

Same amp, NVX JAD800.4, channels 3 and 4 bridged to the SD3 10, the Alpines are each getting their own channel at 2 ohms. So the power is pretty much the same, output capability is far greater with the 2 12s.
 

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Unfortunately only you can decide if the gain is worth the cost.
Looking at some of the earlier comments, you are missing the low end because your box is tuned to 36Hz. I modelled the Level 3 10" and with 700W in the box you have it hits 114.5dB @ 40Hz and is down to 108dB @ 30Hz and only 100dB at 25Hz. In the same 1.1cu tuned at 28Hz you would hit 108dB @ 25Hz ... that's a lot of low end missing without even changing/adding subs.
 

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Get an SI RM-12 and put it in the 1.1 box you have. sealed. It will pound and sound GREAT. Get the d2 version to max out your amp. You will have to make sure you can handle the depth, but if you can i promise you will be thrilled.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Unfortunately only you can decide if the gain is worth the cost.
Looking at some of the earlier comments, you are missing the low end because your box is tuned to 36Hz. I modelled the Level 3 10" and with 700W in the box you have it hits 114.5dB @ 40Hz and is down to 108dB @ 30Hz and only 100dB at 25Hz. In the same 1.1cu tuned at 28Hz you would hit 108dB @ 25Hz ... that's a lot of low end missing without even changing/adding subs.
That's all Chinese to me lol.
If I was to go with the 900w level 3 D2 which will pull 1000w from my amp how would that do.
Or I can put a spacer on the box & use the level 4 sub with 1k -1400 watt capability if that would work.
 

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He's saying that by simply changing the port with your current box size, sub and amp, you could add significant output to your low end.

Is your box a slot port or a round port?
 

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That's all Chinese to me lol.
If I was to go with the 900w level 3 D2 which will pull 1000w from my amp how would that do.
Or I can put a spacer on the box & use the level 4 sub with 1k -1400 watt capability if that would work.
Obviously to get that out of the message, you will need to read the code of Hammurabi from a different side.

His advice was pretty sound, but if you are looking for an excuse for getting new gear, then just do that.
 

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I apologize if what I said wasn't easily understood. Let me try to say it a different way.
If you want to get more low end bass then you need the output below 40Hz to be close to the same as the output at/above 40Hz. Ported boxes are great for increasing output above the tuning frequency, but below the tuning frequency the output falls off a cliff. So with a tuning frequency up at 36Hz you lose a crapton of really low frequency output. You can change the tuning frequency by modifying the port length (longer=lower). To tune at 36Hz a 4" round port would be 21" long ... to tune at 28Hz the same 4" round port would be 36" long
 
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