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Discussion Starter #1
I have been out for a really long time of the audio world, 20+years. I have been doing a lot of research lately but can’t seem to find my answer. Everyone I talk to just seem to want to sale me something. I would like to call and talk to someone about what I need with out them trying to sale me something. Is there someone I can call and talk about my set up? Please let me know PM me your number so we can talk.
Thank you all!
 

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The whole point of this forum is to talk about car audio stuff without someone trying to sell you something. We're all enthusiasts of sorts with different preferences and budgets, so it really does make sense to just post your question and see what people have to say. Start with the simple stuff like what you have now, what you find lacking, and your approx budget. Hope you get what you need and are rolling with great tunes soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The whole point of this forum is to talk about car audio stuff without someone trying to sell you something. We're all enthusiasts of sorts with different preferences and budgets, so it really does make sense to just post your question and see what people have to say. Start with the simple stuff like what you have now, what you find lacking, and your approx budget. Hope you get what you need and are rolling with great tunes soon!
Ok first my set up that I’m getting and already paid for.
2018 tundra non/JBL factory HU- do not what to change-
RD900/5
(2) C2 650 components, for front and rear doors
(2) 10” W1
Not going active staying with passive x-over. Do I really need a DSP to make it better. This is my daily driver and family vehicle on weekends and trips. Not trying to go to car shows just what a good clean sound with not a lot of bass.
 

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I don't know enough about that specific factory unit, so I'll let others weigh in on that. Some of them are pretty bad, but usually Toyota audio stuff is at least not horrible. Do you already have it installed? I would recommend installing, set up properly, then listen for a week or a month. DSP with proper tuning will always make an improvement, but it's definitely not "necessary."
 

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thank you for your reply, no i don't have it installed yet. it's suppose to be a plug and play system for Tundra. i keep reading on how good DSP are if you go active, but that would make me buy another 4 channel amp. ( i can't swing right now).
 

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My buddy has that same Toyota JBL system in his Corolla and it sounds surprisingly good. MyToyota Prius had the standard non-JBL system, and it was really bad. All I did was add a DSP, a 5 ch amp, and upgrade all the speakers, including a Sundown Audio 8" sub, and now it sounds freaking fantastic ! Not loud like my truck, but just a super nice daily driver 🙂
 

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On this head unit how many watts do have on tap? You mentioned components and a subwoofer. Not likely a head unit can push all that without an amp at the very least. There are some very affordable amps out there in the $100+ range without having to break the bank. Like Skar, Orion, Kenwood, Pioneer etc. Just enough to get you through until you get monies. Take the power off your head unit and run it through the amp without DSP and you should be ok.
 

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Ok first my set up that I’m getting and already paid for.
2018 tundra non/JBL factory HU- do not what to change-
RD900/5
(2) C2 650 components, for front and rear doors
(2) 10” W1
Not going active staying with passive x-over. Do I really need a DSP to make it better. This is my daily driver and family vehicle on weekends and trips. Not trying to go to car shows just what a good clean sound with not a lot of bass.
You absolutely do not need a DSP. Everyone says you do because they are so popular the last 4 or 5 years. You can easily enjoy your music without one.
 

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thank you for your reply, no i don't have it installed yet. it's suppose to be a plug and play system for Tundra. i keep reading on how good DSP are if you go active, but that would make me buy another 4 channel amp. ( i can't swing right now).
I can show ten works of fiction that also read really good.

We only read from people proclaiming it, and without know what is doing and how it is doing it, then I am not sure you really need it. Maybe later, but try the thing you have.
 

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That factory head unit most likely has built-in processing for the factory speakers including bass rolloff that will just come through with the new speakers. Your equipment should sound fine but integrating it into the factory HU will be the challenge. Finding an unprocessed signal for the subwoofer might be the biggest challenge. There may be amplifier plug and play interfaces made for the tundra with JBL system. Also proper speaker installation will make a big difference. Make sure the speakers are sealed well to the door frame and seal up any holes that will allow the back wave from the back of the speaker to interact with the front wave from the front of the speaker. Make sure you get speaker polarity correct. A simple way to check is to fade one speaker all the way to the left or right and if bass response improves then you may have polarity backwards on one of them. Any sound deadening that you can do will help a lot with bass response. You can tune using basic methods like using the tweeter level switch on the passive crossover and the HP filter on the amplifier for the mids and LP filter for the subwoofer. Some simple and inexpensive RTA apps for your phone will help you with basic tuning and diagnosis.
 

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...Not likely a head unit can push all that without an amp at the very least. There are some very affordable amps out there in the $100+ range without having to break the bank...
just a quick clarification: the RD900/5 he listed in the 4th post (his 2nd) is an amplifier.
Its a JL rated @ 75w x4 + 225w x1 @ 4Ohm or 100w x 4 + 500w x1 @ 2Ohm
 

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Another thought on this topic is that if you add a DSP, you can use your 75x4 for the front channels (2 tweeters, 2 woofers) and run your rear channels off the factory built-in head unit (with the passive crossovers). Sounds crazy, I know, but you don't really need speakers behind you. Just keep it faded mostly forward. I have done this on my last three systems and I have found no reason to go back to spending time and money on my rear speakers. Just an option that will improve your sound with the DSP and going active but doesn't require any more amp channels.
 
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