DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a new ford 2020.25MY RANGER RAPTOR in Australia.

I have just fitted an aftermarket amp and speakers running off the factory head unit, this set up consists of a Focal 5ch amp (FPX 5.1200 5-CH) 2 x Focal hi-Lo V2 Line Level convertors, focal speakers all round + kicker 12" sub.

I have used forscan software to make the following changes to the cars audio control module:

727-01-01 9E00-1808-9Axx (Disable ANC)
727-01-02 0000-xx (Flattern factory EQ)


The problem I'm having is that the reverse chimes are now coming through the IPC and not the audio system.

I've tried switching the chimes between audio only or IPC cluster in the IPC non asbuilt module to see if this clears the issue, but it makes no difference.

Searching on google has only lead me to find one possible causes but it's in reference to US F150's.

"The ACM has resistance sensing which tells it to send all audio notes generated by the IPC to the speakers, if there is a drop in resistance then the IPC will generate all tones, this will happen when speakers are disconnected from the factory speaker wires, or if the factory speaker wires are spliced into RCA's and connected to an amplifier input, as not enough resistance is supplied. You can defeat the speaker detection and return the chimes to your speakers using forscan, this doc includes all the required codes, docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/htmlview#gid=815852466

I'm wondering if the above would be the same for the ranger? I have tried using the spreadsheet above and changing the Front/Rear Speakers Detection enabled /disabled from 1=Front & Rear Det enabled to D=Front & Rear Det disabled but it made no difference.

Can anyone help here? Am I going down the right path?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Might be going down the wrong road here but, can you still select front/rear fader on the head unit?

On my UK spec Focus the reversing chimes come from the rear channels only. If the above is true and the factory system can't see loads on the speaker channels, it might have disabled the rear speakers although not sure how your aftermarket kit would then still work - assuming it does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,974 Posts
so did you disconnect the speakers from the stock HU and run it to the LOC? most LOC do NOT present a 4ohm load. they will present some load, but only enough to get a signal for the RCA conversion. if this is an active convertor this is even more true.
if that is the case, then the IPC may have decided that you disconnected the speakers and re routed the signal throught the IPC (as stated in that doc you posted)

you may be able to get the chimes back by simply putting a 4ohm 20 watts resistor on each channel you disconnected. it will trick it in to thinking the speaker is there again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
so did you disconnect the speakers from the stock HU and run it to the LOC? most LOC do NOT present a 4ohm load. they will present some load, but only enough to get a signal for the RCA conversion. if this is an active convertor this is even more true.
if that is the case, then the IPC may have decided that you disconnected the speakers and re routed the signal throught the IPC (as stated in that doc you posted)

you may be able to get the chimes back by simply putting a 4ohm 20 watts resistor on each channel you disconnected. it will trick it in to thinking the speaker is there again.
Firstly I disconnected the factory speakers from the stock HU and ran them to the amplifier RCA inputs but this resulted in bad clipping as the focal FPX 5.1200 5-CH amp could not handle the input voltage, and using forscan to switch the factory outputs to a low line level did not help as it changed the chime volume.

So I installed the Focal HILO V2 LOCS and put them in line to solve the clipping issue. (However the sound quality to my ear isn't as good with them in place)

In the mean time I have tried the following with some luck

I opened the BdyCM module and checked the battery state of charge, its showing 75%.. but I don't think this is effecting the chimes.

It seems that the factory head unit no matter what needs to see the load of the factory speakers or the chimes won't work correctly. I've tried every combination of code I can with no solution.

I managed to reset the ACM to factory asbuilt, but only by removing the after market stereo and wiring the factory speakers back in, I also found that the car needs to be powered down for a good 60 second's after changes are made before the head unit recognises the load changes.

I’ve also tried running dummy load 4ohm 20watt resistors in line between the head unit and amp inputs, with similar, but not as reliable results.

Either way once the load on the factory line is removed the head unit eventually reverts the chimes back to the IPC, some times it's instant, sometimes it takes a while.

I also tried to disable front/rear speakers detection setting with forscan but none of the 727-01-01 xxxx *xxx xxxx codes seem to work. As per this spread sheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/htmlview#gid=815852466 I'm guessing it's not the correct information for my vehicle.

Further on from this I'm told my focal amp is only good for max 8v line input, I put a multi meter on the head unit outputs to see what was going on at max volume playing a 60hz sine wave, low output line level is 2.79v AC and standard output level 9.85v AC.
Problem is at low level output the chimes are played at too low volume, and at high output the input level is to much for the amp.

Using lo level convertors inline solves the issue but it takes away from the audio quality a lot, the sub has a much narrower band of adjustment and the rear speakers sound very flat.

I'm currently running
727-01-01 9E00 1A08 XXXX
+
727-02-02 0000 XX
=
ANC disabled
Factory EQ flat
Outputs high level


I'm thinking my next step is to replace my amplifier with something that can take a higher voltage input signal, has a built in DSP, and can provide a dummy load to the head unit..

Probably the combination of JL audio equipment:

JL Vx1000 5i amp with built in DSP
+
RBC1 remote bass control or similar for sub adjustment on dash
+
JL FIX LSA 4 load sensing adapter (this may or may not be needed)


JL has also mentioned that load detection issues may also be caused when there is a brief delay in the way the amp is switching on when the car is powered up, possibly happening with the focal unit. I’m told the JL VX uses different technology to turn on that may rectify this. (I think they called this DC offset line detection) They also confirmed the VX amp can take up to a 16v RCA input as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,974 Posts
I’ve also tried running dummy load 4ohm 20watt resistors in line between the head unit and amp inputs, with similar, but not as reliable results.
not inline.(series) you want those dummy loads across the pos and neg of the stock outputs. (parallel)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
not inline.(series) you want those dummy loads across the pos and neg of the stock outputs. (parallel)
Yes I had them wired in parallel, I couldn't get 4ohm 20watt resistors so I used 2x 8.2ohm 10watt resistors wired in parallel, I believe this makes a 4.2ohm 20 watt resistor?

I didn't seem to make a difference, I think it worked once briefly in testing, but not as effective as reconnecting the factory speakers... so maybe the resistance needs to be more accurate to what the factory speakers provide?

FYI the factory speakers are 4x 4ohm 25w, and 2x tweeters that are not marked but they do have a capacitor on the side of them (6.8 MFD 50WV) I've been trying to find an answer online as to what the factory tweeter resistance is without much luck, but people seem to report that most ford factory tweeters are rated at 8 ohms and the cap is inline to keep the lows out. Perhaps I need more resistance in the dummy loads to trick the stock headhunt if it's used to seeing 8ohm tweeters as well?
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top