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Discussion Starter #21
What a great review Jason.

I've had my set of NZ3AlBe's since Rishi first released them for general sale.
I know that over time, we can become too familiar with the sound from our systems to the point of almost being blazé about their performance and even wanting to try something new.

I've always believed though, that a truly wonderful system wows you every time you sit down in front of it.

Every time I sit in the Honda and turn the system on, I am amazed at the treble extension, airiness, along with the detail and microdynamics in the music, the sweet, lush sound that lacks any hint of glare or harshness, the three dimensionality and width of the stage, and the sheer musicality of the system. Sure, this is the sum of all parts and design of the system and installation however, replacing even the highly regarded RAM3As with the new NZ3AlBe's, has drastically improved my enjoyment of music. And this still happens every time I get into the car. No other car audio system has done that for me.

Sure, these are not an inexpensive driver from a pure dollar figure perspective but their value, I firmly believe, is unsurpassed! In other words, they're an absolute bargain for what you get.

My older AU$2000+ Morel Elate active 3 way speaker system never stood a chance against my current circa $850 two way AP/CSS arrangement.

I told Rishi I wouldn't show this pic but modders are gunna mod. Sorry Rishi but the improvement in sound was too much to ignore.

Don't come crying if you've done this and then suffer damage to your cone(s). You accept full responsibility if you go grill-less.
I feel the exact same about the items you mentioned above about the high end extension and especially the micro-detail - a bit easier for me than many might experience in their cars because I have both speakers 30" in front of me - but I'm still hearing things that catch my attention in tracks I have spent a lot of time with.

Value - again, I have to agree here.....find something that just 'does it' for you.....and get off of the treadmill. Many in the hobby have the 7 month itch to change things up, but others get something very good, get it installed / tuned correctly, and then just sit back and enjoy.

Great reviews guys. I've had them for a hair over a week and I feel generally the same way but I haven't gotten a few things set yet to do a fair review. I can't say with full confidence that I don't miss tweeters (mmm ribbons) but currently I have to sit upright like John to even get center image :) Once I can get my tablet / DSP software working I can start to tweak it and give an actual review.

The 2 things that stood out to me were (as Jason put it):


In the FRS I have a sub up front with the RAM's. In the Prius w/the NZ3's the sub is in the trunk and the up front presence is very good even w/my lack of mids. JT turned it down :( and I plan on putting a hair more impact back in, but it blends very well as is.

I also feel similar to how Winno/Steve described it .. first time I heard it I actually said wow to my wife who was in the car with me. I've actually sat in the car for hours listening already in the past couple weeks, even with my tuning issues. Can't wait to get that out of the way.

Now .. about this grill-less mod .. lol I'm not sure I'm that brave.
Awesome! I'm looking forward to reading further impressions after you have them dialed in. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
A question popped up as to whether there are any advantages or disadvantages for sound quality regarding the number of screws holding the drivers to the speaker boxes. Well, I was using 4 screws per driver for the RAMs, and I haven't rummaged around to see if I have 4 more of these identical screws to add to the Be drivers. :)

I'm not willing to make a claim right now concerning the pluses or minuses of 4 screws versus 6 screws - someone would probably want measurements (thinking of the SQ amp thread) to substantiate any claims ;)

But.....I'll be adding 2 more to each driver as soon as I locate them in my stash or at my local HD/Lowes.
 

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Jason's first post is one of the most all-inclusive and useful reviews I've seen on this site aside from Erin's. Good job sir! Take care of my drivers Lol. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Jason's first post is one of the most all-inclusive and useful reviews I've seen on this site aside from Erin's. Good job sir! Take care of my drivers Lol. ;)

Thanks Mike! I appreciate that, and I am taking good care of them ?

x2 :thumbsup:

Thanks Billy ?
 

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dome.

ribbons are typically too hard to install because they're too dang large. then there's the sweet spot issue unless it's square. and if you make them small you can't cross them low enough to be useful with a larger mid (4" or larger) because the mid is beaming before 5khz, where most of the compact ribbon type speakers need to be crossed to be safe. at least, that's been my (general) experience.

I like Be from the aspect of higher sensitivity. I haven't really seen anything in the Be tweeter department that was better in regards to frequency response. I mean, really, with a good brand you get fairly linear FR and good dispersion. There are exceptions to the rule. But, my point is just that Be tweeters haven't struck me as 'more linear' than non-Be. But they do offer higher sensitivity; it seems most dome tweeters are in the ballpark of 88-89dB @ 2.83v while Be domes are usually 92-93dB. That extra couple dB is nice. Of course, you sure as heck pay for it in size or cost (or both). The Scan Illuminator Be domes, which retail at about $900/pair via Madisound, are huge due to their 1500 inch flange :)D) and the Focal TBe, great for car audio because of it's smallish size, runs over a grand MSRP.

If there were any way to produce a 1" dome Be tweeter in a compact, car friendly size with good dispersion pattern in the $400/pair ballpark that would be the bee's knees. But having NO idea on what materials cost would be, that may be complete wishful thinking. I kind of associated Be costs more with the novelty... maybe it's a mix or maybe they really are justified due to the materials cost. Not my area of expertise by any means.


sorry for the brain dump. hopefully that made sense. lol.



Edit: Just saw you said 'AlBe', meaning a combination of Aluminum/Beryllium, I assume. In that case, I should note I was talking about pure Beryllium tweeters in the above.
 

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dome.

ribbons are typically too hard to install because they're too dang large. then there's the sweet spot issue unless it's square. and if you make them small you can't cross them low enough to be useful with a larger mid (4" or larger) because the mid is beaming before 5khz, where most of the compact ribbon type speakers need to be crossed to be safe. at least, that's been my (general) experience.

I like Be from the aspect of higher sensitivity. I haven't really seen anything in the Be tweeter department that was better in regards to frequency response. I mean, really, with a good brand you get fairly linear FR and good dispersion. There are exceptions to the rule. But, my point is just that Be tweeters haven't struck me as 'more linear' than non-Be. But they do offer higher sensitivity; it seems most dome tweeters are in the ballpark of 88-89dB @ 2.83v while Be domes are usually 92-93dB. That extra couple dB is nice. Of course, you sure as heck pay for it in size or cost (or both). The Scan Illuminator Be domes, which retail at about $900/pair via Madisound, are huge due to their 1500 inch flange :)D) and the Focal TBe, great for car audio because of it's smallish size, runs over a grand MSRP.

If there were any way to produce a 1" dome Be tweeter in a compact, car friendly size with good dispersion pattern in the $400/pair ballpark that would be the bee's knees. But having NO idea on what materials cost would be, that may be complete wishful thinking. I kind of associated Be costs more with the novelty... maybe it's a mix or maybe they really are justified due to the materials cost. Not my area of expertise by any means.


sorry for the brain dump. hopefully that made sense. lol.



Edit: Just saw you said 'AlBe', meaning a combination of Aluminum/Beryllium, I assume. In that case, I should note I was talking about pure Beryllium tweeters in the above.

what do you think of this?
 

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Is this a trick? Lol.

It looks good. But that's not a dome tweeter judging by the roll off (which is what I thought you were asking about). And if it is, you're about to be mega rich. ;) :D
 

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looks about right, then. I definitely knew that wasn't a 1" dome tweeter. :D

what's it look like off-axis? The on-axis response looks good for sure. very well behaved cone based on what you provided. but I'm sure you'd agree with the statement that off-axis results are just as important as (if not more than) what it looks like on-axis.


may need to carry this over to another thread so we don't poo-poo on Jason's hard work here.
 

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looks about right, then. I definitely knew that wasn't a 1" dome tweeter. :D

what's it look like off-axis? The on-axis response looks good for sure. very well behaved cone based on what you provided. but I'm sure you'd agree with the statement that off-axis results are just as important as (if not more than) what it looks like on-axis.


may need to carry this over to another thread so we don't poo-poo on Jason's hard work here.
Lol i can take measurements off-axis not an issue. Maybe after the product is ready and my client is all set to reveal his brand.
 

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Edit:

Its a 2.5 inch driver with Be cone I am developing for a client.:)
Hmm, could be good for rear fill in the Honda where mounting depth is almost non-existent.
A 2" would be even better as it doesn't need to play very low.
 

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A Be cone for rear fill:eek:? Can you settle for an alloy cone lol
Hehehe, it's gotta "match".
Small RAM would probably do.

But we have gone off topic - oops.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Looks good, even so your baffle doesn't have chamfered edges for airflow and that wood looks very thick for the 3"speaker basket.

View attachment 59243


Is that your AT driver? Those are amazing speakers. That baffle looks fantastic as well.



The desktop speaker boxes I have were constructed by my Father-In-Law and I on a very cold, wintery day in his shed with limited tools. They were constructed for the AP XRs that had challenges with the large magnet, but with a relatively narrow flange, and wire connection points that had to be cut out of the baffle. Creating the baffle for the NZ3's would have been a much simpler process.



The original Zaph design of these boxes incorporated a removable baffle so that drivers can be rolled in and out, but we decided against that for various reasons. Since this magnet structure is angled - I'm getting pretty good airflow I think.



But.....I have had in mind a couple adjustments to these boxes - a friend mentioned the potential for recessing the drivers into the surface of the baffle based on the concerns captured in this article:



Click this link for Zaph's article



Again, I don't have the tools to do that. If I can get together with my installer, we might try to address both of those issues at the same time. Another idea I am considering from a discussion with another friend is a ring that has a round over. That would draw the driver out a little bit, chamfer the baffle while we are at it, and then give a softer transition from the edge of the cone to the edge of the baffle.

I expect that the drivers will sound even better after several more days of playing as everything gets settled in. If I can get some improvements from adjusting the speaker boxes on top of that - I'll enjoy these little drivers even that much more.



Right.Sorry Jason:)


No worries at all Rishi - I find it to be relevant regarding the merits of the materials involved and the enthusiasm concerning the future product development that you are contemplating with Audible Physics.
 
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