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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read in several places the emphasis on a cap inline to the ribbons. What if I'm using an active Xover in a HU? Is it still recommended to use an inline cap? I'm rebuilding my system and have already bought Focal Utopia 6.5" mids. I'm looking seriously at the LCY 130 ribbons. I haven't decided on amps yet, but my old PG MPH-6300 will be retired. My current deck, Pioneer, has active Xover ability which I'm not using right now and the deck I'm looking to get, Eclipse, also has the acitve Xover in it. So I'll be rewiring for that as soon as I buy a tweet and rebuild my front stage. I just need to know if I should still buy a cap when I buy the tweets or if that problem is taken care of with the active Xover in the HU.
 

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the single inline cap is not for xover purposes, its for protection from any pops or other extreme distortions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had read that in someones post. So regardless of system setup, 27uf or 29uf or which ever it was is still recommended?

10K2HVN said:
the single inline cap is not for xover purposes, its for protection from any pops or other extreme distortions.
 

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Some people use a capacitor as a simple crossover.

You wouldn't need one for that purpose with an active setup, unless you want some type of complex crossover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, my HU will handle that. But regardless of what cap I put inline, it's going to have a crossover effect. At some point, it will mix with the active xover of the HU and the slope will change, and with it the phasing. I'm just curious how that's going to play out in the long run? Will it be an issue and if so, what would be a good way fix it?
 

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yes, it is still a first order xover, but youre not using it for that purpose. Youre using it for protection. keep it at least an octave below your active xover point and youll be fine.

You wont hear the difference.
 

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Seems kind of pointless to use one unless you need it for a purpose. I wouldn't want to create a new point of possible noise induction or signal loss at a point unless it's necessary.
A lot of times I see people crossing their ribbons low, so they use it as you're saying in a complex crossover with multiple attenuation slopes. For example if the pass band of the ribbon isn't attenuated enough to compensate for the Fs, and a bump in response is present, you might want to use a cap to flatten that peak.
 

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I would use the cap. It's kept my ribbon perfect for almost a year now. I started to get some sag without it.
 

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GMo said:
Seems kind of pointless to use one unless you need it for a purpose. I wouldn't want to create a new point of possible noise induction or signal loss at a point unless it's necessary.
A lot of times I see people crossing their ribbons low, so they use it as you're saying in a complex crossover with multiple attenuation slopes. For example if the pass band of the ribbon isn't attenuated enough to compensate for the Fs, and a bump in response is present, you might want to use a cap to flatten that peak.
Its is being used for a purpose, for protection.

So youve tried this and can hear the difference (inside a car)?
 

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I know where you're coming from with low freq. impedance and low moving mass, but it's not really protecting the tweeter from damage or the amplifier if the proper crossover attenuation and frequency are used. :)
I guess if you feel like you're uncertain of your crossover selection, the added attenuation would be useful.

I've never used a ribbon in a car. Although I've used capacitors in design and heard other ribbon systems utilizing capacitors to help with response problems, which have produced definite audible differences.

You are getting sag from the tweeter without a capacitor, npdang?
 

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It's an issue with turn on/off thumps that occur before the active filter can turn on or off. If you've ever owned an Eclipse 8443/8053 hu you will know what I mean :)

I've also had instances where my Altomobile crossover failed on me and spit out white noise, which pretty much instantly destroyed the ribbons.

Not to mention the inevitable dead battery, and all your settings get wiped... you jump your car and the radio's on ... suddenly your tweeter sees a full range signal.

All of these have happened to me lol.
 

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I actually do own a 8443 with an outboard active, no problems, but I'll keep my fingers crossed I guess. :)

So basically, use a capacitor if you have turn on thump (or delay with active turn on) or are worried about the active failing/electronic setting getting wiped.

I would think someone would want to use a capacitor and coil with any tweeter/mid if their active is kicking in after signal output from the source, or are worried about a failing active.
 

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GMo said:
I've never used a ribbon in a car. Although I've used capacitors in design and heard other ribbon systems utilizing capacitors to help with response problems, which have produced definite audible differences.
yea..but things are a little different inside the car....
 
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