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what would i need to run my rockford 1500 amp?


extra battery
2 fuses 1 before and 1 after the battery? total of 3 from the front battery.
a run of 0 gauge wire from neg back battery to the front neg battery.


is it ok if i use a diehard platinum as my main battery and have a xs800 battery in the back?
 

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what is the purpose of the battery in the back? do you listen to the system with the engine off alot?
 

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I've got a P500.2, P300.2, and T1500-so let me say...

If you are running enuf speakers or low ohm setup AND you listen to it loud, then an alternator w/at least 180 amps at Idle will be needed to use the the 1500 and another amp if you are planning on playing it in stop and go traffic or at night with the lights on. Two batteries is a must to keep the voltage and current up.
If you are just overpowering a sub and using the 1500 for it's massive headroom, then 0 guage from the battery positive and a rewally good ground will be fine.......until you turn it up for a few minutes. At that point you can watch the Stock volt meter on your dash (or a cheap cig lighter one) drop like a rock. If you want to just skip the headaches do this-

1. Get an alternator that has High output at IDLE. Idle output is very important.
2. Do the big 3.
3. Put another battery somewhere and connect it to the same + lead as the T1500.
4. Fuse are protection-go thru the wiring setup and say to yourself "if I put a gash in this wire right here and it shorts-where will the electricity come from to make a spark or even worse fire?" When you ask yourself that, then go up or down the wire and put a fuse at the source for that electricity there.
5. Go buy a $10 CIG LIGHTER led/digital voltage display (walmart has them) and plug it in and watch the voltage drop when using big amps like these.

Seriously, unless you have a stock alternator that is monitored by you ECU and can up the current output as needed-then you must put in an alternator.

Low voltage low current avaiabliity are what kills most amps and speakers.

Low V or I cause huge heating problems and can burn out an amp fast-even with built in protection.

Low V causes amps to clip or go square, this is just direct current running thru your speakers and will burn the coils.

Anyone who is running a system with 500 watts (or more) of true output is an idiot if they don't keep the voltage up and provide some extra storage for that electricity. If you don't think this is true, go get a voltage display and watch your system play at less than 12 volt with the motor running.
 

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It depends greatly how you wire your sub... If wire at 4ohm, you just need 1 battery... Upgrading alternator are a good idea also, sometimes... But adding another battery are not a good idea....

HMMMM. I am no expert but I do not think that what ohms you wire your sub at will be the determining factor. Efficiency of the amplifiers will do more to determine that current draw then the ohm load will unless you are running an amp that is capable of 1 ohm but are running it at 4 ohms. In that situation then yes you will draw less current at 4 ohms. But all in all when pushing 1500 watts or more then you will be pulling a decent amount of current no matter what ohm load you are running at.

Also since when is adding another battery a bad idea? Please explain this one as I am :confused:.
 

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Your amp will draw at maximum of 200 amps during a music peak. It would be beneficial to add a second battery and a HO alternator, look at DC Power. If you decide to use a second battery it would be best to have identical batterys if they are going to be paralleled together. The Sears Die Hard Gold battery is a excellent choice :D
 

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are you serious? I really am asking...
ya, I really am serious. if you dont listen to your system with the engine off, the a second battery does nothing for you. when the engine is on, you are operating off the alternator and the battery in the front will take up any slack. a second battery actually presents more load on the system and can push a marginal charging system over the edge. if you dont need a second battery, save some money.
 

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It depends greatly how you wire your sub... If wire at 4ohm, you just need 1 battery... Upgrading alternator are a good idea also, sometimes... But adding another battery are not a good idea....
the ohms your amplifier is wired to really has nothing to do with it. you want to look at wattage or current. a mono 1000watt amplifier wired to 1ohm or a 2 channel 1000 watt amplifier that is bridged to 4 ohms will pull the same current (assuming the same efficiency)
 

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Your amp will draw at maximum of 200 amps during a music peak. It would be beneficial to add a second battery and a HO alternator, look at DC Power. If you decide to use a second battery it would be best to have identical batterys if they are going to be paralleled together. The Sears Die Hard Gold battery is a excellent choice :D
where did you get that number? a 1500 watts amplifier will pull MAX 105 amps @ 100% effciency. if you figure in 75% effiency it will pull closer to 140 amps. in real life, it will never pull that much for more than a few milliseconds.
 

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get a extra battery or noo?
*sfh*

If your alternator is not keeping up, you will have 2 dead batteries instead of 1.

if your alternator is keeping up, and you dont listen to your system with the engine off, then you dont need one.
 

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then I would look at getting a HO alt. since that 1500 watts amplifier will pull 80 amps sitting on its head. (your car will need amps to operate too)
 

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doesnt matter if it only puts out 80 amps..........RF amplifier are unregulated so higher voltage will make it put out more wattage, means more current. you will make the problem worse.
 

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where did you get that number? a 1500 watts amplifier will pull MAX 105 amps @ 100% effciency. if you figure in 75% effiency it will pull closer to 140 amps. in real life, it will never pull that much for more than a few milliseconds.
Ok, let's correct this misconception- a fuse can pass much more current than it is rated for, understanding that all power has a time factor. If the fuse will blow at X temp, then as long as the current is brief enuf to not create as much heat as needed to blow the fuse-then it won't blow.

The previous post was correct-for short periods of time the amp will pull more current than the fuse is rated. That's the facts.
 

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Ok, let's correct this misconception- a fuse can pass much more current than it is rated for, understanding that all power has a time factor. If the fuse will blow at X temp, then as long as the current is brief enuf to not create as much heat as needed to blow the fuse-then it won't blow.

The previous post was correct-for short periods of time the amp will pull more current than the fuse is rated. That's the facts.
I didnt say anything about fuses. what you are saying is correct and I would never say it wasnt :)
 
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