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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a t3002 for my new clarion 5.25 components. I just bought the amp becuase it seems so highly reguarded for a pretty good price. This amp is probably way to much for what i need and it is very big for a 50x2. When it showed up i thought i was accedently sent a big mono amp or something. I am considering getting rid of it and buying something else that is smaller in physical size becuase i want to hide it. I dont believe that i need crazy power or anything, like i said they are 5 1/4 components. i just dont want to give up SQ. So i guess in short, without being crazy, would much smaller amp like a crossfire 35x2 or a punch 200.2 run my components with no audible difference from the t3002. I swear that T3002 is a sub amp in disguise. This is in a drive around car that i just want to sound good. Is the extra headroom of power something that will be nice to have or under normal to a little loud volumes or will i not notice the difference. I would rather have less power with better specs. The problem i am having is i cannot find specs on backed off power levels, only at rated power. Also how do the spoken of amps like zapco ect compair to crossfires CFA or TEK line. i have had some of crossfire stuff in the past and they seem to be reliable and speced pretty good. I just bought a crossfire TEK 35x2 to drive these components becuase it was on ebay for 22 dollars to the door. Now im just trying to figure out if i am stupid for replacing the t3002. I dont really have a lot of real world experiance with smaller type amps. I used to get all my stuff from my cousin that owned a shop so it was always good, higher powered stuff. Now i am trying to go small but I havnt had anything little like that. I have been told many times that you dont need tons of power to make a good sounding system. I just want some opinions. Also i dont really have a feel for how much power im using at what volumes, so i dont know how loud a 35x2 W system on an avg efficency speaker. All advice will be very appriciated. I have found a few posts using search that show you how to set the system to prevent clipping so perhaps i could just use those methods and if im not clipping then i guess im good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update, I just found a post called "75w enough power?" It appears that some suggest that it is okay and some seem pretty convinced that it would be much better having more power being they are passive crossovers. Good thing i just got a 35x2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I dont have the x fire 35x2 yet. in the past i have had there CFA 1000d for a long time powering a jlw3 in there prowedge box and loved it. I have a crossfire TEK 50x2 in my other pickup running a jlw3 10. It sounds really nice. It is surely not a spl system or anything, but it sounds pretty good. I dont think crossfire is known for being really underrated. I believe they test there products at 12.5V instead of 14.4 so they claim about a 20 percent increase over rated power. I have used there stuff almost solely for the last ten years and have always really liked it. The main reason that i started moving to other stuff is the older CFA or TEK amps were very simple. Plain old speaker terminal outputs and the same for power, gnd, remote. Some of the newer stuff has nice pressure terminals ect. I bought this RF amp because people seem to really like it. It is just a little bigger than what i need. I didnt expect it to be as big as it is. Back to the crossfire stuff, the specs on them are pretty good. I was compairing them to zapco specs and they look very similar. As far as customer support, i believe they are awesome. I love that when i call them, a lady answers the phone in seconds and asks me what i need and transfers me to the guy that i need to talk to. I dont have alot of experiance with alot of other brands but for the older style amps i would say they have nice specs, slightly underrated, very reliable amps. No experiance with any of there other stuff. As an example, that little TEK 50x2 amp in my other truck running the jlw3 10 has been playing at two ohms bridged for probably 4 yrs now and sounds great. It gets pretty warm at times but i would expect it to. It is only rated into 4 ohms bridged. It has never shut off or quit working. To end this comment i will just say Dang that T3002 is a beast for being a 50x2 amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
come on guys i need some advice, i want to install this stuff this weekend and would like to feel comfortable with the smaller amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the birth sheet and it is very close to the numbers above and is kinda why im asking this question. I believe this amp is very over powered for what i am going to do with it. Im okay with this but it comes at a cost of physical size. If i dont need the extra power or will not benefit from it, i would rather use the smaller one. Im trying to do a hidden install and this big Azz amp isnt helping, i just dont want to give up the benefits IF i would actually utilize them.
 

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I don't think your 50w speakers would appreciate that.
Your 50 watt speakers won't have a problem with the power. Just keep your gains low and don 't go crazy with the volume. I think it would be a great amp for most setups, the only reason I would get rid of it is if you REALLY need to save space. If you can get this one to fit, there's absolutely no reason to buy something new.
 

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Your 50 watt speakers won't have a problem with the power. Just keep your gains low and don 't go crazy with the volume. I think it would be a great amp for most setups, the only reason I would get rid of it is if you REALLY need to save space. If you can get this one to fit, there's absolutely no reason to buy something new.
I wouldnt want a 200w amp pushing a 50w speaker... that just sounds to me like a recipie for disaster no matter how low the gain is.

A 100w amp maybe, 220some watts seems like a bit too much.
 

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I wouldnt want a 200w amp pushing a 50w speaker... that just sounds to me like a recipie for disaster no matter how low the gain is.

A 100w amp maybe, 220some watts seems like a bit too much.
I don't see a problem with it at all. My 20 watt tweeters are connected to an amp rated at 130 watts per channel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update on the install. Well i got the 35x2 crossfire yesterday. It was in like new condition and works very well. I have probably read every article on the internet about amplifiers and I fell like the xfire will be plenty for what im doing so i based the install around it. VP recomended that i use the larger amp so im not counting it out, but for now im using the smaller of the two amps. I got the clarion components from crutchfield for 80 dollars shipped so i used them in the doors and ran the tweeters to the dash. Initially i had the components ran off the headdeck and they sounded terrible. Much worst than the factory stuff that was in there. It sounded like i had tweeters and a subwoofer. Mids were terrible. Well i ran all wires necessars to hook up the xfire amp, making sure L and R speaker wire was the same length,(I dont know if it matters but it seems like it would keep the phase the same). Now the system is much cleaner sounding, but still the mids were very bad,almost like they were playing into an open box or something and my door panels were rattling badly at loud volumes. Better, but still not very good. Very dissapointed at this point so i agian turned to the internet for some reading and most would recommend deadining the doors at this point. I found a great article on how to do it so i got 25sq feet of dynomat and started my first project that involved sound dampning. The amount that i bought might have been just a little light but i got both doors about half done. I got one full layer on the outer layer and many broken pieces all over the inside inter and out pieces. I did not cover the holes or seal the inside of the door as recommended but i will get to it. I added a second layer behind the driver. I also stuck it all around the driver bracket. This was all i had time to do today. I am going to finish up with the egg carton foam and sealing up the holes another day. After buttoning up the panels and going for a ride, i was very suprised at the difference that this made. Mids are back and sound pretty good. I just cant believe how much difference this made. I cant wait to add the finishing touches as mentioned above. I may add a complete second layer as well. It was very hot today so it made the material very flexable and easier to install. Not so easy on my back as i will be paying for this with a sunburn. Also would it help to install this stuff in the back on the pannels that the sub is firing into it. As of now they dont rattle or anything but if it will improve the sub by not vibrating panels then im all for it. Ill keep everyone posted on my progress. My only major problem no is my sound it not centered in the truck at all. Im not sure why as i made sure all my wire lengths ect are the same so i would think the phase would be this same. If i play a 3k tone and move my head around, the sound is much stronger right above the steering wheel maybe 6 inches to the left. How do i go about moving the center point. So far i have not gone thru and done any DMM or Oscope readings on my signal so im not sure if im clipping my headdeck or anything. I did the generic 3/4 volume then set gains untill the music was pretty dang loud, probably as loud as i will listen to it ever. Gain position is a little more than half on my xfire 35x2 and about the same on the sub amp. Is it common for avg 200 to 300 dollars headdecks low level outputs to clip at full volume. Now system sounds really good for a generic thrown together system and with a little more work i think i can make it pretty good in general. Any advice or comments will be appriciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No, i wasnt aware that they were crappy. I have read some pretty good reviews on them actually. I dont have any experience with them untill now. Maybe this is why im having a hard time getting them tuned in to at least sound decent. I just assumed it was from having them in a crappy door. Im thinking i should have went with 6.5 anyway instead of the 5 1/4. Lucky for me crutchfield had them on clearance so i bought a set of clarion ultras for my suburban also. I have only used polk db components, jl audio and rockford. I liked all three with my favorite being the pold dB series. Well im stuck with them now, so im going to do everything i can do to make them sound good. My other issue is that i have a high end older head deck so it dont have any internal filters ect.
 

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ya your probably going to need a high pass filter of some sort on them and make your install damn good to get em to sound close to the other comps.... id invest in some sound deadening and possibly a new amp sadly. something like a PPI powerclass 4200 or whatever that has a nice high pass filter you can adjust to taste and a decent amount of power. may even want to throw the T3002 back in there
 
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