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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well first I would like to thank all the pro's and weekend warriors that have posted on this forum. I have read and learned an amazing amount to push my very novice skill set up to a novice :laugh:. I have been getting things together for my install coming up and have I few preliminary pics of things still in the build stage. Please give me some incite if something looks out of place or that might cause some head aches later on for me.


Build Specs:

2 rolls of Raammat Bxt sound dampener
10 yards of ensolite sound dampening foam
1 set of Diamond Hex 6.0 components w/ alum tweets going to switch for silk
Avic D3
JL 500/1 amp
JL 300/4 amp
1 Dayton Reference 10" HO sub (still looking to purchase one)
Custom fiberglass door pods
Custom fiberglass sub box
KnuKnoceptz install accessories
Tech Flex wire looming
Non metallic electrical conduit for running 1/0 under the cab


I am sure I am forgetting some stuff but that is the main items. I do plan on upgrading the factory grounds and battery to alt fused link as well.

Roughly half of the install stuff:



Here are the speaker pods in a rough state but will give you an idea of where I am going with them.


Here they are rough fitted in the truck:








The amp board (still in mock up):







Well that is all I have for right now, again this is not a great install by any means but this is the most involved I have ever been with one of my audio installs and so far I am very proud of what I have acomplished. I give total credit to you guys in this forum for bringing it to the level it is at now. I have plans on tech flexing all wires in the install and will hopefully be doing that this weekend along with running the main 1/0 power run to the back of the cab.

Oh and here is a picture of the truck its going in:
2005 F150 5.4l 3v supercrew lariat



Sorry for the novel I just wanted to portrait some of the knowledge I have learned in the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just got an 09 F150, how did you run the power wire?
I have not installed it yet, but I am going to be running it under the truck inside of a non metallic conduit and then enter underneath the cab. There is a small area where you can drill a hole and put in a proper grommet to seal it up. The best part is it will come in behind the back seat so you will not have an unsightly 5/8" bulge from a 1/0 cable running to the back. This way it will leave me with both wire harness tracks on either side of the truck to run my 4 runs of 12ga speaker wire to the front speakers. And then I can run the rca's down the center of the cab and hopefully not have any electrical noise to interfere with the rca signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok well it is official, I just made this install about a 100 times harder. Instead of the dayton reference 10 ho sub, I have decided to go with the DIYMA reference 12 sub. The mount depth of the sub is 6.3" the room I have to work with is 5.875" so I am going to tip the sub a little bit. This also will have to be a little bit larger of an enclosure as well because it requires about 1 cubic foot sealed. So once this sub comes in I plan on forming a game plan for the box. I will try to keep you updated on how this box is going, I think I will just end up coating the thing with bed liner instead of messing with carpeting or anything else.
 

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Nice work on the door pods. I'm not so sure about the tweeter placement though. Looks like they fire straight into the seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks ya it does look that way from the pictures, but the way I will be mounting them in there I don't think I will have any issues and if I do, I guess I will just have to go back to the drawing board and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I got the amp board all squared away last night, I will try to get pics this evening. But I tech flexed all the wires on the board color coded them and got everything soldered. So this weekend if the weather complies with my terms, I will be installing the sound dampener in the truck, and running the electrical conduit under the truck and getting the amps on the rear wall. But as of right now I will probably finish up wrapping the speaker pods in leather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well here is a little update on how things are going.

The amp rack has been finished. I have color coded tech flexed all the wires. I made my rca's and put them through the board. I got my 8 ga speaker wire for the sub ran through the board.




and I know I have to give an update on the speaker pods so here it is. I am just finishing up wrapping them up and I still have to mount the tweeters in them.


Here is a few misc pics of the build as well:
The twisted 8ga next to 1/0:



Here are a couple shots of the amps with all the wiring hooked up:

500/1


300/4 bridged



Well back to work I go.
 

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I like your install,looking forward to more. Fiberglass looks great..
 

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Looks good so far.

if you plan to put the sub under the seat, I highly doubt you will make it fit without a seat lift. Those DIYMA subs are big, heavy, and have a huge magnet.

The door pods look good but I'd be a little worried about them being mounted right to the plastic door panel, You are going to get a lot of buzzing. make sure to put deadener/ensolite on the back of those plastic door panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks good so far.

if you plan to put the sub under the seat, I highly doubt you will make it fit without a seat lift. Those DIYMA subs are big, heavy, and have a huge magnet.

The door pods look good but I'd be a little worried about them being mounted right to the plastic door panel, You are going to get a lot of buzzing. make sure to put deadener/ensolite on the back of those plastic door panels.
Ya I am worried about it to, but I plan on putting some soft modeling clay in between the plastic and the pod. If it does not work I will just buy another set of the factory covers then sell these to someone else who it won't bother.

I know I am kinda hopeful wishing as far as the sub under the seat without a lift.

I was thinking this weekend about making a box inside of the center console and putting it down inside there. What do you guys think about this idea?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Center console build day 1:

Well I simply came across for a sub that for a price that I simply could not pass up. I ordered a DIYMA Reference 12. This sub has a massive massive magnet, weighing in at just under 40 pounds. The sub unfortunately has a mount depth of 6.3”, an x max just short of 1”, and needs about a ½” behind the pole vent on the motor. That means I need a min of 7.8” which for those of you keeping tally means I will not in anyway shape or form be able to fit this sub under my seat, thus leading me to build a subwoofer enclosure out of the center console.

The tare out of the center console was pretty straight forward. The base around the shifter and cup holders is held on with some simple pressure clips and pops right off with little effort.

The pile:


Next you will want to unscrew the center console lid from the black tray (requires a torx but I forgot the size of it).

After you have the lid off you can now undo a few bolts (7mm, I believe) and take the gray trim ring off leaving just the tan sides and the black console tray in place.

The black tray will now have a few more bolts holding it to the walls of the console. There are 4 more bolts on the bottom of this black tray as well.

Now you will lift the black console piece out of the way. The tan piece that holds the rear air vents and 12v source is held in place with simple pressure clips and will pop off very easily. Be sure to disconnect the wiring harness to it before you try removing it completely.


Then there are a four 10 mm bolts left holding the tan walls together. There are two located at the back of the console; these can be accessed by sliding your seats all the way forward. There are two more left at the front of the console behind a two trim panels you will have to remove to get to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Now that the console is out of the truck I needed to remove the rear air duct. There are a few more bolts that need to be pulled out of the remaining console “guts”. After taking out the guts of the console I decided that I would need to cut down the main piece so that I can get the proper clearance for the new sub.

The mark up:




The separation:





Since I would no longer be using the rear air I decided I would go ahead and delete the rear air vents along with the rear 12v source. I drilled small holes in the surface of the trim panels and sanded it down to make sure the fiberglass would properly bond to the panel. I will be wrapping this piece with tan leather once I apply a coat of body filler and sand it down smooth.

The piece:


Ready for resin:




Resin applied:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Next I figured out how much of the bottom to cut off of the black console piece. I will be putting a .375” thick piece of acrylic in the bottom so that I can show off the sub once it is installed. I will also be adding a few leds to light the area up once I figure out where I want to mount them.

The markup:






The separation:





I am also making a fiberglass plug to stop the airflow to the now deleted flow through console.


Misc pics from the day:

The cut shifter back in place:


The console rebuilt to get marked up:





Well that is all for today I will try to get some more pics updated tomorrow after I get some more work done on it this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks I put a lot of work into them and now I am already considering making another set in a different configuration.
 

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My brother picked up one those special $$ Diyma 12's last week, That thing is quite Beastly, and sure it sounds awesome. Those door pods are freakin sweet, look forward to the next config.
 
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