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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed the driver side speaker in my truck crackling the other day, since I was doing some work on it today, figured I would take the door card off and take a look. One of the connections looked a little suspect, so I replaced it, tested it out and no crackle.

Put the door back together, and what the hell, the crackle is back. So, I take the door card apart again. Unscrew the speaker, and it works fine. As I go to put the screw back in, I notice sparks between the speaker and the screw/door.

Obviously its a short somewhere, but where in the heck is it? the speaker works fine until the screw touches the basket and the door. It is factory wiring from the back of the head unit into the door. Then, new wiring from crossover to speaker.

Can I somehow insulate the screw from the basket? What could be causing the short?

Thanks.
 

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While there may be a short when the screw touches the basket and the door, the real problem most likely, is with the speaker itself where one of the terminals, tinsel leads, or the coil is making contact with the basket. The screw is just connecting it back to the ground of the vehicle, and also the amplifier. Take a close look at the speaker and see if you can see and fix the problem. A DMM may help you narrow it down quicker. If the speakers are new it would be a good idea to contact the shop where they were purchased.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
While there may be a short when the screw touches the basket and the door, the real problem most likely, is with the speaker itself where one of the terminals, tinsel leads, or the coil is making contact with the basket. The screw is just connecting it back to the ground of the vehicle, and also the amplifier. Take a close look at the speaker and see if you can see and fix the problem. A DMM may help you narrow it down quicker. If the speakers are new it would be a good idea to contact the shop where they were purchased.
Thanks, I will take a look at the speaker itself. They are a few years old, so no chance in taking them back anywhere.

Edit: OK, looks like I got it working. One of the wires coming from the terminal was pressed against the basket, I moved it slightly away and it appears to have fixed it. Hopefully permanently.

For future reference, what would I be checking with the DMM?
 

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The DMM could be used between each terminal and the basket to see which lead was causing the issue. One side would read as a short, the other as speaker impedance.

Glad you got it working.
 

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Thanks, I will take a look at the speaker itself. They are a few years old, so no chance in taking them back anywhere.

Edit: OK, looks like I got it working. One of the wires coming from the terminal was pressed against the basket, I moved it slightly away and it appears to have fixed it. Hopefully permanently.

For future reference, what would I be checking with the DMM?

I would put some tape between the 2 so it doesn't happen again... speaker and cars MOVE.. lol..
 

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I used to see this a lot from a certain model of Power Acoustic coaxial that people kept bringing to me from the local pawn shop. This particular model had a coil wrapped around the magnet as part of basic 6 dB/octave low pass for the mid and the anodized coils were not electronically isolated from the magnet, which was of course bolted to the frame. Whenever you screwed this speaker directly to metal in a door (and it was a cheap speaker, so not many people would bother to isolate it) you were introducing a ground into your signal path with all the associated "features".

Thankfully I haven't seen any of these for quite a while now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would put some tape between the 2 so it doesn't happen again... speaker and cars MOVE.. lol..
Funny I did think about doing that, so far this morning its still working. But, there is a little bit of a static type crackle when turning the stereo on, since it literally takes me all of 2 minutes to remove the door card, I may well go ahead and check it out again and tape all the screw holes.
 
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