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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright. I’ve been pecking away at an infinite baffle setup for a few weeks now, figuring things out here and there. One thing that helped majorly was finding out there was a channel in the trunk that was in between framework and the quarter panel sheet metal, that channel leads back into the car and into the chamber my rear mid basses are in. Causing a canceling effect. I sealed that off along with the back deck and rear seat wall. Helped a bunch.
when I open the trunk, it kills the bass output inside the car. Which makes me think, I have two air vents in the trunk, one on each side venting to atmosphere behind the bumper cover. What if I close those up? Will that cause me issues when I close the trunk? I have two 8’s in the back deck, infinite baffle.
 

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Alright. I’ve been pecking away at an infinite baffle setup for a few weeks now, figuring things out here and there. One thing that helped majorly was finding out there was a channel in the trunk that was in between framework and the quarter panel sheet metal, that channel leads back into the car and into the chamber my rear mid basses are in. Causing a canceling effect. I sealed that off along with the back deck and rear seat wall. Helped a bunch.
when I open the trunk, it kills the bass output inside the car. Which makes me think, I have two air vents in the trunk, one on each side venting to atmosphere behind the bumper cover. What if I close those up? Will that cause me issues when I close the trunk? I have two 8’s in the back deck, infinite baffle.
I wouldn't bother that vent. It's functional and shouldn't really cause subwoofer performance issues. Most problems from IB come from the immediate baffle area and/or application. Your subs are in the rear deck.... sealing off the rear deck and cabin from trunk would be the main target. Small leaks elsewhere would be waste.

The rear deck is the cause of many problems with added vibration and coloring of the sound. That's why I use a dual opposed manifold application. No amount of deadener can equal what such a technique accomplishes. Not saying that's what you should use, but the rear deck is where you should check.

The subs' parameters could also be an issue. I assume they're very robust, punchy, and sound likable for certain genres (pop, old school hip hop, rock), but outside of that they begin to suffer. Had the same experience years ago with some Elemental Design buyout 12" subs. They were advertised as one thing but turned out to have a ridiculously high Qts (1.2 vs the claimed .39). In the suggested box Q was raised somewhere between Qtc= 1.5-2 IIRC. Was fun with some thunder until I was ready to tone things down and couldn't (didn't have a good EQ back then which made it worse). I wound up installing them IB in a youngster's Buick Century. Was much better.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

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Didn’t really answer if it helps or not.....
In all of the threads I found on this topic, they were all removing the flaps because they were making noise. I would assume that if your flaps aren't making noise, then you're likely not moving enough air for the flaps to impede performance. I would think, if anything, removing the flaps could allow for more low-end response, which you seem to have an excess of.
Otherwise, the link was a reference to how people have gone about it. Couldn't you just remove them and see what it does? Or temporarily keep the flaps open?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry for the late reply. We lost power for the past week and I’ve been dealing with stuff around the house trying to help my family have more comfort. Anyways...

I have two vents in the trunk. The flaps don’t make noise but it seems as if the veered it’s sealed off, the better it sounds. I was more or less wondering what the poplar consensus was on sealing this off completely, not removing the flaps.
 
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