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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyway...

I am trying to decide between all the Seas 6.5-7" drivers for a two way front stage. Has anyone listened to the difference between the regular L18RNX/P, the W18 Excel, and the CW17 Lotus drivers? Is the mark-up in price worth it? Can you actually hear a difference at all?

Now I know that the Lotus is made for the car environment including a 4 ohm setup. But is that it?

I could really use the opinions of people here since I will not be able to listen to ANY of these drivers beforehand. Thank you.
 

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Finleyville said:
Anyway...

I am trying to decide between all the Seas 6.5-7" drivers for a two way front stage. Has anyone listened to the difference between the regular L18RNX/P, the W18 Excel, and the CW17 Lotus drivers? Is the mark-up in price worth it? Can you actually hear a difference at all?

Now I know that the Lotus is made for the car environment including a 4 ohm setup. But is that it?

I could really use the opinions of people here since I will not be able to listen to ANY of these drivers beforehand. Thank you.
I have not looked, but just thought this might help you decide...
have you considered the tweeter you want to use? Chances are if you have a tweeter picked, that perhaps you should consider the xOver point you need for the tweeter & go with the driver that will play up to that with ease...
 

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I can say one thing, if you end up going with the L18, make sure you get a tweeter that can play down low, like the Dayton Reference tweet. I have mine actively crossed at 2.2khz, 18db and they sound like crap in the upper midrange. My tweet is on a passive crossover at 3.2khz, 12db :( Kind of a makeshift setup right now, but the L18 have always sounded the way they do now.
 

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W18 and Lotus ref. have very similar midrange performance. The W18 has higher total bass output, and deeper mounting depth.

The L18RNX/P has the highest total bass output, but the midrange does not have the startling clarity of the W18's although it's still very good.

There's just no way anyone can tell you what the difference is going to be. Imho, the difference in midrange is hard to hear in the car. The bass differences are more obvious... although it's very very close between the L18 and W18.
 

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Casedot said:
I can say one thing, if you end up going with the L18, make sure you get a tweeter that can play down low, like the Dayton Reference tweet. I have mine actively crossed at 2.2khz, 18db and they sound like crap in the upper midrange. My tweet is on a passive crossover at 3.2khz, 12db :( Kind of a makeshift setup right now, but the L18 have always sounded the way they do now.
i used to think so too..but after a little more tunning, the freaken midrange is pretty damn sweet! <<seriously.

i think the main problem is the lowend sensitivity is pretty crazy, so it needs to be tamed in order for the midrange clarity to come out... ;)
 

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Casedot said:
I can say one thing, if you end up going with the L18, make sure you get a tweeter that can play down low, like the Dayton Reference tweet. I have mine actively crossed at 2.2khz, 18db and they sound like crap in the upper midrange. My tweet is on a passive crossover at 3.2khz, 12db :( Kind of a makeshift setup right now, but the L18 have always sounded the way they do now.
i used to think so too..but after a little more tunning, the freaken midrange is pretty damn sweet! <^seriously.

i think the main problem is the lowend (bass/midbass) sensitivity is pretty crazy, so it needs to be tamed in order for the midrange clarity to come out... ;)
 

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I do have the L18 and W12 in my car. The W12 does produce more detail; you will be able to hear more subtle musical changes. You will hear the same changes with the L18, especially with some tuning, but they will not have the relaxing character. That is how I would explain the difference. Depending on the music you listen to and if you are used to hearing fine detail in your music should tell you whether to choose the L18 or W18. I think the L18 will be more for playing your music loud and in your face, the W18 will be for strong recordings and sitting back and listening. You can play the Excel speakers loud, they just have a different way of playing loud.

These are only my opinions and I have to say I am by no way an expert in this field. Npdang used the W18 in his car and I know he has tested the L18. I would really listen to what he has to say!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the replies...

My driver requirements are pretty hard to fulfill. :( Most times I listen at a moderate volume relishing all the non-harsh detail and background information I can gleam from a recording. However, there are times that I have to crank the music loud to almost concert levels and just scream with the music. So I also need drivers that can do this as well and not change their tonality when pushed louder.

My musical tastes range from rock, classic rock, oldies, electronic, trance, blues, and especially jazz.

The tweeter I plan to use will either be the Dayton RS or the Hiquphon OW II's. Even though I have not heard either one, I have not read one single bad review or opinion about either one. :D

edit: Yes I know that installation will have the biggest impact on any driver that I choose. These will be located in a well deadened stock door location.
 

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10K2HVN said:
i used to think so too..but after a little more tunning, the freaken midrange is pretty damn sweet! <^seriously.

i think the main problem is the lowend (bass/midbass) sensitivity is pretty crazy, so it needs to be tamed in order for the midrange clarity to come out... ;)
yeah, i've been playing around with them a lot but i still can't seem to get it right. They are detailed, i can say that, but IMO they are far better as midbass in a 3-way, not two way. I would get the CA or the G18 for a 2-way.
 

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can anyone vouch for the seas g-rnx , was curious myself how they compare to the l-and ca,despite the cone diff. how diff. do they sound?
 

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About the Hiquphon OW2, I have those in my kicks with the W12s. Right from the beginning it was better than any other tweeter I have ever heard in a car. I still wasn't impressed until I tuned a little and re-aligned the kickpanels. I can't compare them against any other hifi tweeters like it but I am extremely happy.

I can't really tell you why I got them, I just accepted people's opinions and tried something not too many people have tried for the car. I like them so much I plan on building Dave Ellis' 1801b speaker for hifi home sound.

Why not get some W18s and a LCY ribbon? I would love to try that!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
95Legend said:
for car? Only if you don't feel like you want to integrate the 7" into the door.
What do you mean by this? I will not be fab'ing any pods for the mids. I plan on using the stock location behind the stock grills. (deadened doors of course)

As far as the tweeter's location, they also will be located in the stock locations. In this case, both on the dashboard firing directly upwards towards the windshield. I am leaning towards the Daytons in this case and saving the OW II's for my other car...
 

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If you're willing to fabricate, by all means go with the 7" excel. Can't really go wrong with more potential bass output.


The only thing you gotta keep in mind is that the lotus references are 4ohm while the excels are 8ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
95Legend said:
If you're willing to fabricate, by all means go with the 7" excel. Can't really go wrong with more potential bass output.


The only thing you gotta keep in mind is that the lotus references are 4ohm while the excels are 8ohm.
It seems to me (correct me if I'm wrong) that you are saying that if I were to build specific pods/enclosures for the door then the Excel's would be the way to go. Otherwise, I should either use the less expensive L18 regular line or go with the Lotus line. Is this correct?

edit: The impediance difference doesn't bother me. They will be recieving 200W each, plenty.
 
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