[Mless5]

How do you attach the speaker to the box? I hate how there always will be one or two T nuts that will be just a hair off - I never seem to get screws perfectly centered in the hole. I know, I am picky, but how do you guy go about the whole thing?

 

[Scuzzy]

Measure twice, drill once? I know what you mean about the T-Nuts, the last woofer I mounted I placed the woofer in position, used a pencil to go around the holes a few times to try to get the best centre point possible.

http://www.toyotasera.net/gallery_audio/images/21032009088.jpg

 

[AdamTaylor]

drill out the top and bottom holes and attach the speaker with screws in those

continue to drill the holes all the way around... it keeps the speaker from moving around


works much better than marking holes

 

[AdamTaylor]

drill out the top and bottom holes and attach the speaker with screws in those

continue to drill the holes all the way around... it keeps the speaker from moving around


works much better than marking holes

 

[mrkaydro]

1-1/4" drywall screws, you dont even need to predrill. You could use 2" if you have a double baffle. T-nuts are to much work for not enough gain IMO.

 

[AdamTaylor]

i got "special" mdf screws but i still pre-drill just for peace of mind that its not going to magically split

 

[GlasSman]

1-1/4" drywall screws, you dont even need to predrill. You could use 2" if you have a double baffle. T-nuts are to much work for not enough gain IMO.

Not sufficient if you plan on removing the speaker a few times.

Any type of threaded insert and Allens are the way to go.

 

[GlasSman]

If you use the largest drill bit to drill the pilot hole for the insert you'll get a nicely centered set of holes.

Once you do it as few times you'll get the hang of it.

Practice on a scrap board.

 

[quality_sound]

Once I switched from MDF to Birch PLy I stopped dealing with anything other than machine screws. I've had mids out more times that I can count with no issues. Same thing with my subs.

My advice, stop using MDF and stop worrying about the screws. FWIW, I use #8 pan head machine screws.

 

[GlasSman]

Once I switched from MDF to Birch PLy I stopped dealing with anything other than machine screws. I've had mids out more times that I can count with no issues. Same thing with my subs.

My advice, stop using MDF and stop worrying about the screws. FWIW, I use #8 pan head machine screws.

Good advice once people get the hang of things.

 

[machinehead]

Fire the box up. No screws nessacary.

 

[chad]

1-1/4" drywall screws, you dont even need to predrill. You could use 2" if you have a double baffle. T-nuts are to much work for not enough gain IMO.

The better the driver oftentimes the tighter the magnetic gap, the tighter the gap the less tolerant the frame is to improper installation, like screw torque. There is a reason this is hanging on my wall.....

 

[mrkaydro]

If you are working with middle of the road woofer than 1-1/4" drywall screws will work, if you are using a higher end woofer them yes use a better screw, most of the time the manufacture will recommend a screw to be used. and why are you removing you speaker so many times that you would screw up the wood? did you screw something up?? do it right the first time and you never have to take it apart! I have use 1-1/4" screws in many different applications and not once have I had any fail! That being said if I have a woofer running 1000 watts RMS then no im not gonna use a 1-1/4 screw, ill use the screws that came with the woofer!!

 

[radioflyer97]

Since my JL12w6 is sitting on a spacer as well as a speaker ring, i can use 2.5" coarse thread drywall screws. That thing isn't going anywhere.

 

[30something]

I like to fab up a 1/4" steel ring to go on the interior of the enclosure and just weld nuts or threaded inserts to that...double the clamping surface and a stiffer baffle. FYI, if you give it a try, be sure to place the ring inside the box before you glue it or lay the glass...otherwise you'll learn why manholes are round and not square

 

[ArcL100]

drill out the top and bottom holes and attach the speaker with screws in those

continue to drill the holes all the way around... it keeps the speaker from moving around


works much better than marking holes

^This is how I make all my baffles as well - drilling through the actual driver mount holes. If I marked it, there is no way in hell it'd ever line up.

 

[digitalhifi]

I like to fab up a 1/4" steel ring to go on the interior of the enclosure and just weld nuts or threaded inserts to that...double the clamping surface and a stiffer baffle. FYI, if you give it a try, be sure to place the ring inside the box before you glue it or lay the glass...otherwise you'll learn why manholes are round and not square

I like this idea. I like it very much, but I'm totally the person that would sink the last brad nail and then realize I forgot the clamp I just welded. :worried: