Not sufficient if you plan on removing the speaker a few times.1-1/4" drywall screws, you dont even need to predrill. You could use 2" if you have a double baffle. T-nuts are to much work for not enough gain IMO.
Once I switched from MDF to Birch PLy I stopped dealing with anything other than machine screws. I've had mids out more times that I can count with no issues. Same thing with my subs.
My advice, stop using MDF and stop worrying about the screws. FWIW, I use #8 pan head machine screws.
1-1/4" drywall screws, you dont even need to predrill. You could use 2" if you have a double baffle. T-nuts are to much work for not enough gain IMO.
^This is how I make all my baffles as well - drilling through the actual driver mount holes. If I marked it, there is no way in hell it'd ever line up.drill out the top and bottom holes and attach the speaker with screws in those
continue to drill the holes all the way around... it keeps the speaker from moving around
works much better than marking holes
I like this idea. I like it very much, but I'm totally the person that would sink the last brad nail and then realize I forgot the clamp I just welded. :worried:I like to fab up a 1/4" steel ring to go on the interior of the enclosure and just weld nuts or threaded inserts to that...double the clamping surface and a stiffer baffle. FYI, if you give it a try, be sure to place the ring inside the box before you glue it or lay the glass...otherwise you'll learn why manholes are round and not square