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Discussion Starter #1
Did some more work on my door pods. Covered them in the only color vinyl I could find locally...egg shell white. But the local NAPA store carries SEM products and I ordered some SEM Color Coat paint in graphite color along with some Vinyl Prep to get it cleaned and prepped for paint. This is where I am so far, hopefully bu tonight I am done with shooting these with the paint. Lemme know what youz think mane...



Full Build Pics:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/518721/5
 

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DAAAAA$$$$$ that looks good

man my vinyl came out terrible LOL

how did you get it to bend around the curves so well

I couldnt get the darn stuff to lay down log enough for the contact cement to bond, then it just started to bubble up--so I pulled it off

any techiniques I missed? did your vinyl have that white backing on it? or was it just bare?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I used some 3 way stretch vinyl. Around the curves, just form it and pull like a mo-fo on the backside to stretch it smooth. I used staples on the backside to help hold the vinyl down until the cement set, then I just popped them out and trimmed the vinyl back some.

The contact cement I used was DAP Welwood Original. Brushed it on both surfaces, allowed it to dry until gummy (about 15 mins) then simply laid it down. Dont soak the vinyl in the cement, just a quick spreading of the cement does the trick. If you mess up the cement doesnt set for a full 48 hours, so you can easily pull and stretch until desired results are gained.
 

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hmmm 3way stretch vinyl i think is the trick then (ill order it online this time)

as the vinyl i bought (which seemed stretchy--guess not lol)


and yeah the staple trick seems it would work holding it down

as i could not for the life of me figure what to use to hold the edges down while it cured/

my peices are plastic, and fiberglass so i cant staple,

any ideas??

and I too used that weldwood also but man as soon as i had it all down, it started to bubble in the places i stretched the most?

like right around the curves


did you do the flat surfaces first>?? or the curves?

and how did you get it so smooth around the mounting holes?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did the flat surface first. Then, I "punched" the area with the mounting holes to get it to stretch some there for when I cut them later. Then I did the edges. The best way to do edged is not have the edge a straight 90*. Either route it with a roundover bit to smoothen it, or sand it like a mofo, this way it has a nice curve to it. When doing the holes, dont cut the vinyl all the way to the hole edge, leave about 3/4" then when you fold and stretch into the hole, you dont have areas showing of the material under it.And like I said before, the cement doesnt set for a full 2 days, so you have the ability to still manipulate the vinyl for about 2 hours to get it the way you want. What you can do for the edges is use clamps. Like these:


**ONE LAST THING!***
Dont double space your replies...
 

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Don`t think I am stupid or anything. How do these attach to the door? Do they go in place of the regular factory grilles or did you cut out everything behind. This looks like something I would like to try in my truck. I like how yours turned out. Good job. Please remember that I am a 40 year old man just recently getting back in to this thing. A lot of things have changed in the last 20 years since I installed for a living.
 

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the cleanest way ive found for mounting them is to run screws through the back side of the door panel into the baffle. of course i use fender washers on the screws to spread out some of the load on the door panel to prevent any damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
YOu can click on the link I provided for a full detailed step by step of the fabrication I did on these. I used some threaded inserts in the MDF baffle, then from behind the door skin, used some screw to screw into the inserts. The inserts allow you to repeatedly remove the baffle from the panel without destroying the MDF. Basically these pods just replaced the factory grille inserts. I just finished spraying these with the SEM graphite color and WOW, it matches perfect with the interior, its amazing how stock these look. I will post some updated pics in my Sounddomain page (the link is provided in my original post above)
 

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That's very nice! I wish I had those kind of crafting skills.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
npdang said:
That's very nice! I wish I had those kind of crafting skills.
Thanks, the funny part is I wish I had your skills with speakers... :rolleyes:
 

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There's no skill involved... I can show you how to do it in 5 mins.
 

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What size midbasses are you using? Picture might be deceiving but they look like 8`s. Just curious. I might try making some baffles like yours this weekend. Wife doesn`t like it but it`s not her truck lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They are Dynaudio 160s (6.5s)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay, got the SEM graphite paint in last weekend, got the door baffle painted. The color match came out pretty damn close. The first pic is of the rear of the baffle, with the vinyl stretched over it and stapled it (I removed the staples after the contact cement fully cured...72hrs later). The next 2 pics are what the baffles look like after the paint and installed in the stock location. YOu can see a slight wrinkle in the mounted baffle, but it came out once the cement cured and with some heat. All in all, these were not that hard to finish. It was just getting all the necessary tools and supplies, which was time consuming because I basically figured out what I needed and ordered as I went along. Now that I have it all, shouldnt be much time to make more. Enjoy.


 

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That looks damn good!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gracias...
 

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Just out of curiousity what would you charge for a set raw with just the abs plastic pieces in place? No holes cut, screw inserts or anything just raw.
 
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