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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone tried this JL Audio or Dayton shallow sub before? I'm pretty limited to my choices as I only have 200 watts at 2-ohms. I'm aiming for good transient response and favor tight articulate bass. I do not want something slow sounding that will interfere with the front stage. I was thinking about an Audiomobile Evo 10 D4, but they are rated at 500 watts RMS, so I'm assuming my amp will not be able to hang?

JL Audio 10TW1-2
Sensitivity 82.5 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response 26 - 200 Hz
Max RMS Power Handling 300
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 600

Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm
Nominal Diameter10"
Power Handling (RMS)250 Watts
Power Handling (max)500 Watts
Impedance4+4 ohms
Frequency Response30 to 300
HzSensitivity86.5 dB 2.83V/1m
Voice Coil Diameter2"
 

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Both are from decent brands Model them up and see what the response looks like in the space you have available.
 

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Of those two, I'd go with the LS10-44. It models better in a small sealed enclosure, and is more efficient. And while it isn't a low inductance woofer (5.25mH), I can't imagine it being any worse than the JL with the huge voicecoil. I would also consider the RSS265HO-44 if you can make that work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Of those two, I'd go with the LS10-44. It models better in a small sealed enclosure, and is more efficient. And while it isn't a low inductance woofer (5.25mH), I can't imagine it being any worse than the JL with the huge voicecoil. I would also consider the RSS265HO-44 if you can make that work.
Thanks for the detailed graphs, it seems like the Dayton would work well. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this Dayton sub?
 

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I installed the Dayton LS10-44 in the passenger foot well of my Mercedes C230. It is in a 18liter sealed fiberglass enclosure. It is being fed by a Alpine PDX-M6 subwoofer amplifier. It hits hard and goes down low. I have it LP at [email protected]/oct. It does not impact the leg room at all. It is sunk as far back as it would go.
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Discussion Starter #7
I installed the Dayton LS10-44 in the passenger foot well of my Mercedes C230. It is in a 18liter sealed fiberglass enclosure. It is being fed by a Alpine PDX-M6 subwoofer amplifier. It hits hard and goes down low. I have it LP at [email protected]/oct. It does not impact the leg room at all. It is sunk as far back as it would go.
You are sending 600 watts to the Dayton. Do you think 200 watts is enough to make them hit hard enough?
 

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I just came in here to post that Gary was running this very sub setup. Looks like he beat me to the punch!
 

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have any of you compared or heard the jl 10" shallow sub compared to this dayton?
 

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You are sending 600 watts to the Dayton. Do you think 200 watts is enough to make them hit hard enough?
Depends on how loud you want it. Not sure how much of that 600 watts I am using on regular listening.
rton20s would know more about the sensitivity specs than me. At $125 though, it is a very good buy.
It replaced 2 Morel Ultimo 10's on the rear deck with a PDX M12 on them. I would never go back.
Putting the sub up front was one of the best moves I have made with my system, hands down.
 

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I installed the Dayton LS10-44 in the passenger foot well of my Mercedes C230. It is in a 18liter sealed fiberglass enclosure. It is being fed by a Alpine PDX-M6 subwoofer amplifier. It hits hard and goes down low. I have it LP at [email protected]/oct. It does not impact the leg room at all. It is sunk as far back as it would go. View attachment 264163 View attachment 264163
That looks very nice indeed.

I went in a different direction for my Mercedes 2006 SLK55. Sort of.

I'm not sure if this would satisfy the OP's desires as I lost 6"-7" of leg room. I recently had an entirely new system installed with an ARC 10 sub dual 2 ohm coil installed in a wood/MDF/fiberglass enclosure facing down. You can touch the speaker just up inside the port....
.75 cu.ft. enclosure....21 liters. ARC X2 amp @1ohm- 650W. The sub is very punchy, tight and accurate. Even at highest volume.

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I wanted the sub hidden out of view and my shop owner thought this was the best way to get the most/best sound at the same time; I'm guessing due to the air space above the magnet. I can't argue with the sound it puts out. I too am so happy to have the sub up front........... I'm 6'1" and with the seat all the way back, I have to bend my knees a little. But most passengers I'll have will be shorter than me.
 

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I have enjoyed the up-front sub in my last car and my current car. I had a 10" sealed, then 12" sealed, and then 12" IB sub in the trunk of my BMW. When I bought my BRZ, I had two 12's IB - trunk was too small for them, the baffle wasn't the best, etc. I tried the old 10" that I had used in the past just sitting in the foot well, and liked it. I had my installer add a 10"JL (TW1 perhaps) to the foot well - so I was trying to use that and the two IB subs. Finally, Matt Roberts suggested that I should make the front sub work and take out the IB subs (rattling and no sub-30hz out of them). I pulled the IB wall / subs - gained horsepower with the drop of 60 pounds.
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I eventually went from the 10" JL (really good sub - snap, tonality - but not a lot of deeper presence) - I went to the SI BM 12" shallow (either the mkIII or mkIV) - much better (to my ears) in every way.

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Unlike Slick55 - this sub on the floor, in my small BRZ caused 1/2 of the usable foot space to be taken up. My wife only rode in this car a handful of times in 6 years. I loved the sound though, and I typically was the only one in the car......but a long day of demos sometimes was not very enjoyable.

For the Audi - I wanted the upfront sub, but I didn't want it to be seen, and I didn't want it to take up foot space. I asked my installer (Mark Worrell) to put the SI BM mkV in the glove box area. It took him a month, and it was very difficult to get the 0.65 cu ft needed, but he succeeded. Again, in my opinion (very biased), I think it sounds extremely good.
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This photo is a little miss-leading - there isn't as great a difference in the blacks as you see in this photo.

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I only post these to show what we did - not as a pat on the back - just that I have compromised on some aspects, but I have had gained other aspects of the sound. Car Audio is about balancing compromises or competing desires. I'm very satisfied with how this turned out in my car.
 
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