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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I have been lurking for a few weeks now and I would like to get a few opinions.
I have a 98 Passat wagon and at the moment, I'm running the stock headunit and a phatnoise in place of the CD changer. I like the PN, so I'm looking at keeping that headunit for a bit till I can get my hands on one of the Kenwoods that I can use with the PN. That being said, I have a PowerAcoustik Apache 2APC-380 that I would like to use to power either 1 or 2 subs. Granted, I know it may not be best or even close, but I have it and would like to use it just to sort of get me feet wet so to speak. I was originally thinking I'd build a custom enclosure where the storage box is on the rear pass side and use a single 8 or 10. Last week I had the hatch cover off and got the idea that maybe I could use a pair of shallow mount 8's if I build up on the hatch cover.

Thanks
jerry
 

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Depends on the output of the subs, but i see two problems. 1 the hatch might become to heavy to stay open. 2 rattles might be a challenge.
 

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I agree on the rattles. I thought about doing the same thing on a S10 Blazer tailgate, but strayed away since shallow subs usually have drawbacks compared a conventional sub that uses micro enclosures. Xmax usually being the main factor. If you are just trying to save space there are several subs that can fit boxes down to .3 cubes sealed with decent excursion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yeah, I thought about that too.. nothing worse than sounding like your car is rattling itself into oblivion. I was hoping that maybe dynamat or whatever would handle that if I added enough. Never even considered the hatch staying up issue..
My other option was to build one of these
but I wanted to use that cubby for a different built in idea I had. I like this box, but thought I could get more or better sound out of 2 subs in the tail.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I agree on the rattles. I thought about doing the same thing on a S10 Blazer tailgate, but strayed away since shallow subs usually have drawbacks compared a conventional sub that uses micro enclosures. Xmax usually being the main factor. If you are just trying to save space there are several subs that can fit boxes down to .3 cubes sealed with decent excursion.
What drawbacks would a shallow mount have? Since I'm not looking at mega power SQL, I didnt consider any issues. Hmm..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I also have a pair of BNIB 10" MTX subs I bought someplace.. they were originally for another project, I just found them sitting in the garage.. Not sure if they are worth while though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As far as the amp is concerned, would it be better at powering a single or dual subs.. say a single 10 vs dual 8's?
 

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For one thing I wouldn't be too impressed if I heard the sub in the pic you posted. Looks like a Sony in way too small of a enclosure. I could be incorrect on the box size, though I'm sure there's plenty of subs on the market now that will outdo it.


I'm not familiar with that amp. Have a link for it? The truth with Power Acoustik is the amps ok as long as you don't demand what they claim. Treat them gently with an sub far less powered and it might last. I've seen buddies blow them up constantly try to make them do hat tricks in the ohm loads they are supposed to be rated for. I say hat tricks because of how I warned them of the amp's true nature.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For one thing I wouldn't be too impressed if I heard the sub in the pic you posted. Looks like a Sony in way too small of a enclosure. I could be incorrect on the box size, though I'm sure there's plenty of subs on the market now that will outdo it.


I'm not familiar with that amp. Have a link for it? The truth with Power Acoustik is the amps ok as long as you don't demand what they claim. Treat them gently with an sub far less powered and it might last. I've seen buddies blow them up constantly try to make them do hat tricks in the ohm loads they are supposed to be rated for. I say hat tricks because of how I warned them of the amp's true nature.
Cant find a worthwhile link, I'm guessing its a 380W amp from back in the 90's.. I will more than likely pick up another, once I have the basics sorted out.
The sub in the pic is not whats important, the encloure is what is made to fit in some dead space in the vehicle that doesnt eat up the rest of the cargo area. I believe it figures out to be abt 1-1.1 cu ft. I wouldnt use a 12, I would go 10 at the most.
 

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The pic may be playing tricks with my eyes, but if it is 1 ft^3 you have plenty of options with a 10". Even with Dayton HO sealed that's way too much though most prefer it ported.

Shouldn't be a problem at all finding something suitable without having to deal with a shallow mount sub. The objection I have with some of them is the fact that even though they're shallow, the amount of ft^3 required doesn't seem to follow suit with their aspect. That may have changed recently, but when they first started getting popular there was only a few that seemed to use very small boxes and still have good excursion. However, now that neo magnet prices has soared, it has brought another conundrum to their use.


With the space in the back I'd be looking to use one of several mini amps (Arc, Massive, etc). Wish I could switch to one, but I have too much spare gear already I need to get rid of. If you ever get that far or want to go ahead and secure one you might want to keep an eye on the classifieds. Usually a Massive NX pops up for sale.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
A couple of pics with a Blaupunkt 10".. these pics go back a ways, I may just carpet the whole panel to make it look uniform instead of an add on box. The guy who used to make these no longer does, the molds were sold and who knows where they are now. I will make my own, I guess I'll know how much space I have when I'm done ;) since I cant seem to find the info.
I should be able to use a standard sub if I go with this box.. on the tailgate, I would def need to go shallow mounts. I dont think that one design will be easier than the other, but the tail will require more work in having to wire and add some sort of positive locking mech to hold it up.



 

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Looks good! I agree though, carpeting the whole side would look more stock. Not sure how easy that would be though unless you are good with seams or it will be permanent.
 
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