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Discussion Starter #1
Finally, after getting everything installed, level matched, etc. I decided to try the Auto EQ/TA.

After giving it a try I checked the crossover settings to see what it "thought" sounded best. Man, was I surprised.

It crossed my tweeters at 8k, mids from 63 to 8k, and the sub 63. All 12db slopes.

Im running HAT L1 Pro R2 on the dash pointed toward driver, and L6SE's in the doors.

I never thought of trying crossing them this high (8k), but it actually sounds amazing along with the Auto EQ it made.

The only thing I did was push the mid and sub back up to 80 and put a 24 slope back on the sub. I must say, It sounds like a whole new system.

Anyone else see strange Auto settings? (with good results):eek:
 

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I'm pretty sure those are default filter settings, and not the result of some tuning algorithim that determines optimal filters. My P99 auto-tune always set the slope the same as yours for a 2-way plus sub. For a 3-way plus sub, it BP's the midbass from 63-1600khz and the midrange is BP'ed 1600-8000hz. And I've tried numerous 2-way & 3-way sets that all were sonically different, yet the auto-tune would always use the same filters when allowed to choose so.

The only setup I thought it sounded great with was when I had the stage 4 3-way set installed. Even then I could tune it better myself.
 

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It would be very interesting to actually know how it determines the network setting...
I tried it once with a 3way frontstage consisting of profi kicks, vandy 4's and cal 26's. The mb was hp'd at 63Hz, which was fine at low volumes, but that's it. The kicks like 80 much better. Lol
I don't remember exactly where it crossed the mb/mid at, but I remember the mid was covering a strange bandwidth compared to What I would've set it at. It crossed the mid and tweet at 8k, like yours. At higher volumes, the vandy was pretty wonky that high, but didn't sound terrible, again at lower volumes.
Your settings sound very, very similar to What mine were... With completely different drivers optimized for very different bandwidths. Makes me wonder what it uses to determine it's network selection...

Edit: shoulda waited before posting, and I would've got my answer. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmm, Im going to play with it more tomorrow. The manual states that you use Custom NW if you want to use your own crossover settings and Auto NW if you dont. In this case I used Auto NW when starting the whole process. It does seem funny that everyone else gets 8k also, but for me, it took away a lot of the "harshness" at high volume that I got from crossing the tweeter lower. Again. Im gonna play with it some more tomorrow to see whats up, but it does sound good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was just reading your signature. I am sure you don't have all that installed in your vehicle. What is actually installed and what vehicle is it all in?
My sig is never accurate, because Im always trying different stuff. As of now its the HAT front stage and triple 10 Boston G5 sub stage., in my 04 Impala SS.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One more thing I will add, this isnt the first time Ive used Pioneers Auto TA/EQ, this is pretty much the first time Ive liked what it has done.
 

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Well, it is not a surprise as you were being misleaded all the while.... That's the difference between a DIYer and an engineer....
A good midrange should able to play flat upto 10kHz before it starts to roll off... I cross my midrange at 10kHz and tweeter starts from 10kHz... But all at -24dB alope...
A tweeter having extreme low fs of <2000Hz does not means it will sound good if you cross them at 4000Hz...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, it is not a surprise as you were being misleaded all the while.... That's the difference between a DIYer and an engineer....
A good midrange should able to play flat upto 10kHz before it starts to roll off... I cross my midrange at 10kHz and tweeter starts from 10kHz... But all at -24dB alope...
A tweeter having extreme low fs of <2000Hz does not means it will sound good if you cross them at 4000Hz...
I was previously playing with crossing the tweeters at 4k and 5k. At high volume, voices and others sounded harsh.

Being that my tweets are mounted at ear level pointed directly at the driver, does this make sense? Ive read that tweeters mounted high work better with a high crossover fq.
 

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It depends to type of tweeter you use... Dome tweeters are not that direction dependent... Sometimes is just too much of variables...
BTW, there's another way for you to tame the tweeter's harshness, which is using a low powered 2 channel amp, say 18-22W a channel...
Last time I place my tweeters facing me and now I placed them facing the windscreen, using the reflections and it do sounded differently... I won't say it is the best for my tweeters, but it is better than last time...
 

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I also have the HAT L1R2 tweets pretty much on-axis, and to kinda add on to what Kyheng is saying -I'm only giving mine 25w each and HP'ing them @5khz/-6db slope. This helps to bring the stage up without any harshness from the tweets.
 

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I tried the auto EQ with my 3" widebanders in the pillars & 10" midbass in the doors. IIRC, the crossover point between the two was like 1.6k... not impressed.
 

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Don't even bother with Auto EQ/TA of the P99RS. Set your crossover for all your speakers and do a Custom EQ/TA. Once that is done, it give you a baseline of TA. Use the auto TA and adjust it manually from there.
Also, disable Auto EQ or any other sound enhancement craps. It give too much emphasize on the bass/midbass which kind of distort the entire image of the sound.
If you got TA, crossover, level and gain setting dialed in correctly, it should sound much better than Auto TA/EQ. You shouldn't need much EQ manual adjustment.
Have fun tuning, it will going to take a while before you can get crossover, TA, level and gain setting dialed in correctly. GL :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Don't even bother with Auto EQ/TA of the P99RS. Set your crossover for all your speakers and do a Custom EQ/TA. Once that is done, it give you a baseline of TA. Use the auto TA and adjust it manually from there.
Also, disable Auto EQ or any other sound enhancement craps. It give too much emphasize on the bass/midbass which kind of distort the entire image of the sound.
If you got TA, crossover, level and gain setting dialed in correctly, it should sound much better than Auto TA/EQ. You shouldn't need much EQ manual adjustment.
Have fun tuning, it will going to take a while before you can get crossover, TA, level and gain setting dialed in correctly. GL :)
I tried turning off Auto EQ just to see the difference, but it sounded extremely hollow and subdued.
 

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I also have the HAT L1R2 tweets pretty much on-axis, and to kinda add on to what Kyheng is saying -I'm only giving mine 25w each and HP'ing them @5khz/-6db slope. This helps to bring the stage up without any harshness from the tweets.
How about the level? I only putting 18W and still need to tune down the level from HU.... Crossing the tweeters lower do able to bring up the sound stage higher, but too much power will bring harshness also...

I tried the auto EQ with my 3" widebanders in the pillars & 10" midbass in the doors. IIRC, the crossover point between the two was like 1.6k... not impressed.
Well, are you expecting your 10" to sing? This means the auto tuning features do know what it is doing, just sometimes we don't like it...
Sometimes using auto tuning can give us a baseline....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I may also add that I know my tweeters arent getting crap for power, kind of seems like a waste of a 140x4 amp. I agree that my tweeters are probably only getting 15w or so, makes me want to bridge my HRU.4 to the mids and run a seperate low power tweeter amp.
 

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Well, are you expecting your 10" to sing? This means the auto tuning features do know what it is doing, just sometimes we don't like it...
Sometimes using auto tuning can give us a baseline....
No, not at all... the opposite actually. While I wasn't expecting a low crossover point of 250hz (like I have), I figured somewhere in the ballpark of 500-800hz.

The only baseline I got that was remotely close was T/A, and that turned out to be off somewhat on a couple drivers.
 

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I see... Anyway, what the Pioneer engineers did behind we won't know.... We can only guess what is what...
What the Japs thinks won't be the same as what we think.... They believe amp's watt means nothing while we think bigger watts are better...
For all these years in audio, 2-way + sub's settings are more or less the same while 3-way front + sub there's just too many possibilities we can have....
 

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I see... Anyway, what the Pioneer engineers did behind we won't know.... We can only guess what is what...
What the Japs thinks won't be the same as what we think.... They believe amp's watt means nothing while we think bigger watts are better...
For all these years in audio, 2-way + sub's settings are more or less the same while 3-way front + sub there's just too many possibilities we can have....

Another thing that baffled me was I don't have anything connected to the High output, just Mid, Low, & Sub. I figured the processor would be "smart" enough to auto-adjust accordingly via connected outputs.
 
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