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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so I have a 92 civic, stock alternator(like 60 amps or something)

I have a Kinetik Hc1400 under the hood, 1/0 upgrade under the hood, 1/0 ran to my belle.

My sub gets 700w sealed, and im running my frontstage active, so lets say at most 200w for the front. thats 900w/14.4= 62.50amps

Should I really be seeing dimming? I dont see it all of the time, usually when the system has been bumpin a while, and im at a red light....

But here is the weirdest thing. Seriously...The 880's voltage meter in the Hu will; say like 12.5ish, and I pop it into neutral(auto tranny) and it shoots back up to 14.2-14.3. WEIRD
 

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Re: SHould I be seeing dimming??

If you cranked your gains up you'll see more dimming. If you put your tranny into neutral your RPM's raise and your alternator generates more power. Your doing pretty good to only see dimming at red lights if you ask me. Also, your sub isn't getting the full 700watts. Put in a 50hz 0db test tone and measure the voltage coming out of the amp on your sub output, take that voltage and divide by the resistance of the sub, that will give you the amount of current consumption of the sub, then take that number and multiply by the voltage output of the amps sub channel again. That will give you the actuall watts your subs getting. But that's just at 50hz on 0db's. On actual music you'll be getting lower.

Example : JL 500/1 and a dual 4ohm sub.

1.500/1 is putting out 32 volts to a dual 4ohm sub
2. 32v/2(total resistance of sub) = 16amp
3. 16amps * 32volts = 512 watts
 

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Re: SHould I be seeing dimming??

The transmission places a load on the engine.


Think about it, your alternator is making 60 amps (and probably not at idle)...

So the stereo is relying on the battery to provide amperage, and the battery is probably 12.5v not 14 like the alternator is making.
 

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Re: SHould I be seeing dimming??

If your alt puts out 60A, thats prolly at 2000 rpm or higher, under the best conditions. Now if your system pulls ~60A of that, what is left to run your car? Whatever the alt cannot provide will come from your battery, and if the alt cant keep up with the demand, it will lead to a dead battery. Time for a bigger/higher output alternator.

In your present circumstances, you are doing VERY well to have minimal dimming.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: SHould I be seeing dimming??

If your alt puts out 60A, thats prolly at 2000 rpm or higher, under the best conditions. Now if your system pulls ~60A of that, what is left to run your car? Whatever the alt cannot provide will come from your battery, and if the alt cant keep up with the demand, it will lead to a dead battery. Time for a bigger/higher output alternator.

In your present circumstances, you are doing VERY well to have minimal dimming.
Probably because I have a high amperage battery, and 1/0 all around.

I briefly read all of your guys comments, but I have to get dinner now so I will be back to read....
 

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Have you bypassed the ELD circuit yet ;)

Phearable.net - Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Solutions - Hondata, Neptune, Crome, Uberdata, Ectune, AEM, Honda Tuning, Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, Turbos, LS/VTEC, ECU Chipping, Chipped Ecus, P28

Can I get a witness ...

Location: Somewhere on Earth :)
Vehicle: 93 Civic with a B16 setup for SCCA autocross competition in the club's Street Modified class.
Testimonial / Comments: When my teammate and I completed the engine swap and moved to the new class, we were in need of a chip that would allow our SOHC-VTEC ecu to think it was a DOHC-VTEC unit. We tried a few other chips from other tuners, and while they worked, they only gave improvements in one area (waaay up high in the rev range) and dramatically hurt the low and mid range driveability; which is very important in autocross competition. I actually stumbled upon John Vega's website while looking for a solution on Honda-Tech. Phearable.net allows the buyer to specify exactly what is done to the car both present and future. He looks to see what is being done with the car; and John tailors each application to suit those needs. In the end he suggested that a mildly modified OEM P30 program would best suit our competition needs... And it has! I trust John, and I'll never look elsewhere again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you bypassed the ELD circuit yet ;)

Phearable.net - Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Solutions - Hondata, Neptune, Crome, Uberdata, Ectune, AEM, Honda Tuning, Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, Turbos, LS/VTEC, ECU Chipping, Chipped Ecus, P28

Can I get a witness ...

Location: Somewhere on Earth :)
Vehicle: 93 Civic with a B16 setup for SCCA autocross competition in the club's Street Modified class.
Testimonial / Comments: When my teammate and I completed the engine swap and moved to the new class, we were in need of a chip that would allow our SOHC-VTEC ecu to think it was a DOHC-VTEC unit. We tried a few other chips from other tuners, and while they worked, they only gave improvements in one area (waaay up high in the rev range) and dramatically hurt the low and mid range driveability; which is very important in autocross competition. I actually stumbled upon John Vega's website while looking for a solution on Honda-Tech. Phearable.net allows the buyer to specify exactly what is done to the car both present and future. He looks to see what is being done with the car; and John tailors each application to suit those needs. In the end he suggested that a mildly modified OEM P30 program would best suit our competition needs... And it has! I trust John, and I'll never look elsewhere again.
Dude... I dont see how that has anything to do with my situation, it probably does but I am a dumbass and dont understand that ****.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Damn I guess im border line need a new alternator. As said I only get it when at red lights and the **** is really bumping....so its not TOO bad. I mean worst case scenario my stock alternator dies(big deal) and my battery gets F'ed up.(Was like $100).

I just dont want to spend $300-500 on a H.O alternator. I bought a "H.O" for my other civic 2 years ago on ebay and that **** has given me problems. Still works but eh....
 

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Damn I guess im border line need a new alternator. As said I only get it when at red lights and the **** is really bumping....so its not TOO bad. I mean worst case scenario my stock alternator dies(big deal) and my battery gets F'ed up.(Was like $100).

I just dont want to spend $300-500 on a H.O alternator. I bought a "H.O" for my other civic 2 years ago on ebay and that **** has given me problems. Still works but eh....

When your alternator does go out, go get one from O'Reily's. Lifetime warranty so when it goes out again they'll give you a new one for free. Same thing goes for their battery's. Been doing it for 10 years now =)
 

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The official Honda definition for the P1298 error code is "High voltage ELD Circuit". This means that you are getting high input in the Electronic Load Detector. The Electronic Load Detector basically monitors how much current the charging system is using so it knows how much to charge the battery. Be sure to check for blown fuses first though, as it could be caused by a blown fuse from the wiring harness shorted on the underside of the intake manifold.

Here...

Question:
again what does the ELD do, I have an extra wire on the harness I just made for the weird swap I'm doing. And I'm just curious what the ELD does. From it's description, I'm guessing it causes the car to idle higher under electrical load, so the alternator puts out more juice...
Answer:
yah kicks the alternator up and add's more power where needed, ie spark plugs and other systems, makes it so ur lights dont change with the beat to ur music

If you can't understand this then just keep it the way it is :surprised:
 

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You pound the hell out of your **** at stoplights?

I'm done offering advice.

/help
One man's pounding is another man's just barely audible (almost). With enough barrier installed, it's possible to be very loud in the car without disturbing others (again almost). If he is disturbing other people, I'm with you, but that really can't be assumed. I doubt he's generating any seismic activity with a stock civic electrical system :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The official Honda definition for the P1298 error code is "High voltage ELD Circuit". This means that you are getting high input in the Electronic Load Detector. The Electronic Load Detector basically monitors how much current the charging system is using so it knows how much to charge the battery. Be sure to check for blown fuses first though, as it could be caused by a blown fuse from the wiring harness shorted on the underside of the intake manifold.

Here...

Question:
again what does the ELD do, I have an extra wire on the harness I just made for the weird swap I'm doing. And I'm just curious what the ELD does. From it's description, I'm guessing it causes the car to idle higher under electrical load, so the alternator puts out more juice...
Answer:
yah kicks the alternator up and add's more power where needed, ie spark plugs and other systems, makes it so ur lights dont change with the beat to ur music

If you can't understand this then just keep it the way it is :surprised:
I understand that....but I have never heard of anything like that. How hard is it to do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You pound the hell out of your **** at stoplights?

I'm done offering advice.

/help
Well Im not sure what you classify as pounding...I will be listening to music full blast on the highway and then get off the highway and drive the 2 miles home... and I will get stopped at a red light... and its already blastin so I dont change it...

I mean im running a 15 inch sealed sub, really isnt that loud.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One man's pounding is another man's just barely audible (almost). With enough barrier installed, it's possible to be very loud in the car without disturbing others (again almost). If he is disturbing other people, I'm with you, but that really can't be assumed. I doubt he's generating any seismic activity with a stock civic electrical system :)
lol exactly. I dont even think im in the 130's or anything, I have never been metered though. The sub I have is really perfect for me IMO. It gives great response, especially the lows... and it gets loud enough to where its not TOO loud for me... but also not too quiet either..

This sub came after a Kicker l7 in 5 cubes, sounded like ass and made my ears bleed. not for me..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Damn that is some good info, Im gonna have to read it over and over...
 

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IMO - if the dimming isn't severe it's just what high demand amps do to stock charging systems. If your car is turning over like usual every morning your alt is doing its job.
 
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