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This is something i've been curious about for a while. Now that it's getting colder outside, when I get up in the morning my amps are cold..obviously due to the fact that it's cold outside and they haven't been used for at least 10-12 hours (the day before). With my cars over the years I've never pushed the engine too hard until it gets a chance to warm up...just as a precaution and the fact that the engine runs much better when it warms up then it does right when you start it up.

I do the same thing with my system. I usually only have it at 1/4 volume output (from my headunit) for 10-15 minutes until the amps warm up some.
So I have been really curious if it's similar with amps. Meaning, is there any benefit or could any damage be done if you just turn your system on FULL BLAST or even 3/4 blast right from start up? Logically, i'm thinking that it wouldn't make a difference either way,....but I'm not completely sure which is why I had to ask. :D
 

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I've never heard of cold issues with amps. However, there have been some instances of issues with surrounds on subs getting hard at near freezing temperatures restricting cone movement and thus overheating the coils of the sub
 

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there have been cold issues in amps, but that's pretty much in real cold temps, like sub-zero, and also where high levels of condensation is concerned, but i don't think you'll have a problem in cali, lol. and, don't forget that the stiff surrounds rip in the real cold temps, because thaey are also brittle, and flex more at the weakest point a few min is good practice, but i don't think it's near necessary there. your engine needs to fully expand all the metals and get the viscocities of all fluids to operating range to run best and at proper tollerances....
 

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I've never heard of cold issues with amps. However, there have been some instances of issues with surrounds on subs getting hard at near freezing temperatures restricting cone movement and thus overheating the coils of the sub
I cant see that being true at all. if they are near frozen, just means it will take longer to heat up. the inductance shouldnt be any different (at least not enough to matter) no matter what temp it is. once a speakers warms up it will change properties a bit, but power handling is not one of em.


for the OP, this is not a car. if it comes on and works you can use it however you like. I doubt will get a piece cold enough to actually effect the electronics (most are rated well below 0° F)
 

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I only recently learned about the surrounds on subs getting stiff.
This is the first year that I have had my subs mounted in the trunk while living in an area that gets below freezing so i am going to make sure to use low volume for a few mins before getting loud.
I do not think that the amps need any concern, however.
 

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depends on the sub too. ones with bytle rubber surrounds and the like are less susceptible.
 

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I only recently learned about the surrounds on subs getting stiff.
This is the first year that I have had my subs mounted in the trunk while living in an area that gets below freezing so i am going to make sure to use low volume for a few mins before getting loud.
I do not think that the amps need any concern, however.
I've lived in Illinois my entire life where it at times gets below 0F... I get in the car, let the engine warm up till I can tolerate the fact that humans have to endure said temps, and bang on it... Never lost a sub, sound different but have not come across damage.
 

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I've lived in Illinois my entire life where it at times gets below 0F... I get in the car, let the engine warm up till I can tolerate the fact that humans have to endure said temps, and bang on it... Never lost a sub, sound different but have not come across damage.
Well I have the Skar VVX's and they have a very thick rubber surround that gets pretty stiff when cold.

Now most of the subs I have owned in the past were JL Audio and those have a much more pliable surround plus they were installed in a SUV which gets the subs in a warmer environment much quicker than sitting in an unheated trunk.

These Skars that I have, while I love the performance for the price point (ie very loud sub for the money) they have a very poor cold weather design - IMO
 

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minibari, you are dead wrong on both aspects. doesn't get much colder than i live and work in...... first, the bytil/rubber surrounds are the worst for cold seizure. over a decade ago, i had my wife cranking 1k to a pg x-max 15 and i had my head against it to make sure it was even on. worked fine once the trunk warmed up a bit. 2nd, no movement= no cooling, and even though the problem is that the sub is cold, the coil can heat real quick, and is actually possible to cook it before you can even feel it on the dustcap. this is real cold, though, not your southern overnight chill. the butyl rubber surrounds are what i perfer over foam, and most i have run in the last 8 or so years have been just that, and not split apart like foam, and pretty much, if it's a problem that it needs to warm up, it tends sound a little funny or quiet, so you'll know to turn it down for a bit...
 

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minibari, you are dead wrong on both aspects. doesn't get much colder than i live and work in...... first, the bytil/rubber surrounds are the worst for cold seizure. over a decade ago, i had my wife cranking 1k to a pg x-max 15 and i had my head against it to make sure it was even on. worked fine once the trunk warmed up a bit. 2nd, no movement= no cooling, and even though the problem is that the sub is cold, the coil can heat real quick, and is actually possible to cook it before you can even feel it on the dustcap. this is real cold, though, not your southern overnight chill. the butyl rubber surrounds are what i perfer over foam, and most i have run in the last 8 or so years have been just that, and not split apart like foam, and pretty much, if it's a problem that it needs to warm up, it tends sound a little funny or quiet, so you'll know to turn it down for a bit...
There is no flippin way butyl rubber is holding back a kilowatt of power, Anchorage is cold but not cold enough to stop 1KW from moving a driver. Methinks something else is oddly wrong.....

time to dig out a driver and make room in the deep-freeze.
 

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I would let it warm up.... just like a engine

Many home audiophiles leave their home amps on 24/7 so they sound the best & are at optimal temp, seems like a waiste to me though.

Mostly I would worry about pushing a voicecoil to hard when it's cold, letting it have a minute or so to warm up just like the engine is cheap insurance to me
 

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I always found less sub output at cold temps so it does not sound right. I always play it at a lower volume for a bit and it seems to normalize, though air temp in the car may cause some of the issue as I don't think trunks warm that much or that fast. But if stiff that will cause friction and heat so it will warm itself, I'd guess.

I always try to minimize moisture in the car, keep the floor mats dumped out and use mats that don't let the carpet get soaked. Otherwise it blows moisture when the heat is on. Always fix any water leaks in the car. Otherwise when at freezing or less there is no moisture and electronics themselves love low temps.
 

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I think it's the cabin that needs to warm up, not the sub. You would get better perception of the bass when the air is less dense. Heck, this was the only thing left unsaid :).
 

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over a decade ago, i had my wife cranking 1k to a pg x-max 15 and i had my head against it to make sure it was even on. worked fine once the trunk warmed up a bit.
Hmmm, I spent some time in Barrow, AK and one of the Base Ops guys had a thumping stereo. It'd play fine, albeit, a little different, after sitting for a couple of hours. I don't know what kind of subs he had running but he never had a problem with them not moving at all.


2nd, no movement= no cooling
Yes, very true. I had a buddy that packed his car with a bunch a donation clothes for goodwill several years ago. He really didn't think the closthes would have an impact by laying on his 1 12" sub. The problem was, it was enough weight to keep the cone somewhat still. Boy, I am sure those clothes stank as the smell of a burnt up VC is bad....
 

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Hey guys, i myself always allow a warm up time just because it feels like the right thing to do, and the bass always seemed to sound different when it is very cold. However i know that computer guys freeze the CPU's...but with an amp i gues if we froze them with freon say and KEPT it cold it'd be one story...but we heat them up...and the question is will a rapid (full power) heat up crack things, wear out tolerances faster, like of the solid state devices that get very hot like the transistors and such. However one distinct experience i couldn't explain was from my MMATS D100 i had (the smaller than HC sinked [email protected] class D monoblocks). I had it running a pair of MMATS pro 12's around the year 1999. That winter, i was in my senior year of highschool and we were renting a place with no garage as my parents were building. Anyways i had a themometer (radio shack digital with remote probe) with the probe mounted to the amp with tape and the thermometer display on dash. (it was from to my previous amp...Soundstream Reference Class A 3.0 hahaa, biggg temp diff...about 200 degrees dif LOL). Anyways, when it was in the teens Farenheit, the amp would power up and squeel! Not from the speakers either!!! A very weird squeaking pulsing and squeeling similar to a charging capacitor in a camera photoflash but much lower and also the sound of dragging chalk on the chalkboard....untill it warmed at closer to 30F!!! Maybe the first 5 min of easy jamming. It would come out of the power supply side vents into which i could see a torroid transf next too. It would always function fine though but boy was it weird! Fall and Spring time all gone!:)
 

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I once had a high school history teacher try to tell our class that warming up a vehicle was useless and wasteful because it wasn't human and couldn't feel cold.
Me and the one motor head in the class both did simultaneous face palms.
 

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well, it was in fairbanks, actually, i don't remember if it was -20, or -40 that morn, but somewhere in that range. what i remember tha most was having to drive a couple hours @ -22f 2 nights before with no heat until i reached the next gas station and got coolant. so get it cold, and make sure you have anice cone and thisck surround if you wanna try. the pgx-max had one of the first full cf cones, and i'm supprised it did not blow apart
 
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