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Aight, but don't get underwhelmed with how they look on the outside...

Two of the driver's side during building and one of the passenger's side finished.

As you can see...they are completely stealth and the car looks factory from the inside.
Are the magnets basically stuck right to the a-pillar or...?
 

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Well here are my pods... Im 20 and broke all the time... The tweets in the pic have long since been replaced with Dayton ND20 Surface Mount tweets.

Mids are TB 802SC drivers wired in parralell for 4 ohm load...

This was my first attempt at putting mids on the dash, and learned much about this... One, 2 drivers laying horizontally makes for mad directionality issues. 2cnd the idea of 2 mids is just bad imo, comb filtering issues and such.

But i used what i had on hand I can also provide a new up to date pic with the new tweets if people are interested.

Vehicle is a 90 Accord LX. All in all, for 10$ in tweets and 20$ in the mids, PE tent sale... I dnt think they sound too bad :D
Sideways arrays work great, no need to knock 'em :D

There's one catch though - you want the crossover at one half to one quarter wavelength of the center to center spacing.

That means two things.



First, it's going to have to be an MTM, that's the only way the spacing will be in the ballpark.
Second, you have to use a beefy tweeter and extraordinarily small midranges. For instance, the JBL Control Now array uses a center-to-center spacing of 4", so that sets the crossover at about 1700hz. 850hz would be even better, but you wouldn't be able to get the tweeter to go that low, even though it's waveguide loaded.

I'm listening to these right now, and they're great. $60 at Costco. Great speakers.

 

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dunno, but it works for me. It does start to roll off a bit early, around 16k but a little boost on the eq sorts that out. the pods were a compromise for practicality, I drive the car every day and didn't want it to affect vision too much. plus it was good enough for me to win Australian National Champion for Advanced 1 class for MEASQ last year.

although I must admit I do plan to rebuild them some time in the future to try and get the speakers more on axis, I have a few ideas in my head on how to achieve this while still retaining the practicality part of my car. but that is a little way off yet

What's your crossover point?

Because your midranges are so small, you can move the crossover point up, and that will reduce the audibility of aiming the drivers.

For instance, your woofer and your tweeter's directionality is fairly well matched at 6,750hz. So you could bump the xover up to that point, and then use EQ to flatten the off axis response. So basically it would be a little hot on-axis, but you're not listening on-axis so it's not a big deal.

Nothing wrong with listening off axis, in fact there are a lot of advantages to doing it in the car. You just have to tweak the xover and the off-axis frequency response.

And it sure beats trashing such a good looking piece of custom work!

 

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What's your crossover point?

Because your midranges are so small, you can move the crossover point up, and that will reduce the audibility of aiming the drivers.

For instance, your woofer and your tweeter's directionality is fairly well matched at 6,750hz. So you could bump the xover up to that point, and then use EQ to flatten the off axis response. So basically it would be a little hot on-axis, but you're not listening on-axis so it's not a big deal.

Nothing wrong with listening off axis, in fact there are a lot of advantages to doing it in the car. You just have to tweak the xover and the off-axis frequency response.

And it sure beats trashing such a good looking piece of custom work!

Thanks Patrick, at the moment they are crossed over at about 4.5k 24dB
however I am using the crossovers on my amp Diamond Audio D7104 and therefore am limited to a max of 5k

however I do have a miniDSP that will be going in some time in the near future, so I will give that a go when I can

at the moment my priority is finishing my door enclosures for my CSS Trio8 :)
 

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I cross mine at 200hz to 10Khz
 

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cant believe all of these people can fiberglass. makes me feel stupid and not talented.
 

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Looks nice. Can I ask you how you like the driverside tweeter on-axis being so close to you?
Yes, you can ask. ;)
In matters of tonality / tonal accuracy it's very good. I don't like the drop-off in the upper highs when tweeters are angled too much off-axis. In matters of sound stage respectively imaging there are some deficits. Because of this I'm currently rebuildung the a-pillars.

What are those wrapped with?
This is a synthetic suede from Alcantara. I think, it's called microsuede or ultrasuede in English. Very nice stuff. It's a little bit fluffy. This can even be a benefit for the tweeter's sound.

Cheers
Konni
 

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Yes, you can ask. ;)
In matters of tonality / tonal accuracy it's very good. I don't like the drop-off in the upper highs when tweeters are angled too much off-axis. In matters of sound stage respectively imaging there are some deficits. Because of this I'm currently rebuildung the a-pillars.
Cheers
Konni

Due to the imaging issues what do you have in your plans for the pillars this time around?

What tweeters are those?
 

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Sweet thread! What's a typical cost for a shop to mold a tweeter into the a-pillars?
bout 400-600, i recently got quoted 200$ at a local shop, than got a call back telling me for the work they quoted me 400$ they would want 800$, double their quote...
 
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