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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Building my new system i've decided on the subs and narrowed the box's down to 2 decisions (unless you have other recommendations)

SUBS: Hertz HX300D http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/doc/pdf_hx300d.pdf

BOXES:

$150 99-06 GM Extended Cab Ultra Deep Dual 10/12 Downfire Box
OR
$250 99-06 GM Extended Cab Ultra Deep MAXX Dual 10/12 Downfire Box


Will the extra cu.ft make make a difference? how much of an impact? I dont mind spending the money if its whats in my best interest but would rather not spend the extra $100 if i dont have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im going to say no to the stealthboxes because Ive already got my HX300D's ordered.

Doesnt anyone have some advice or recommendations? If I dont recieve a response soon im just going to buy the bigger of the 2. at least then I know i can always make it smaller if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Supposedly these enclosures are built pretty tight and sturdy. Went with the light tan carpet to match my interior. I'd like to keep everything as clean looking as possible. I'm really anxious to hear these subs I'm moving up from dual Polk mm1040'S so these better blow them out of the water, knock my teeth out, and rip out my hair all while being accurate :p. Would 300-400 wants to these subs hurt them? It would be a temporary situation until I get my second amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sweet! I just bought a Zed dreadnought so for now I'm going to run my front stage off of 2 channels then bridge the other 2 for 800w between the 2 subs. I plan on getting a Zed minotaur for 1300w to split between the 2 and possibly run my front stage active. Ive never ran active before and can understand the advantages but Idk if I am "in the know" enough on setting crossovers and gains to really take advantage of running active. Got any thoughts or opinions on this? I'm running Hertz 165Xl's.
 

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I actually had the ultra deep box in my last truck.(Still have the box). I will say that the box itself was made very well, and it sounded good. The only issue I had was the amount of clearance between the subs and the floor. Granted, the subs I used had very thick surrounds but they were basically touching the floor. I just used a block of 1/2 mdf under the middle to raise the front of the box off the floor and slid it out if I wanted the back seat to lock into place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That was my concern too as my last box had the same issue (non sub thump) and to fix I just added some MDF like you said. The MAXX box says it will fit W6's in its advertising as a selling point and (I think) those have more excursion than the 300Ds. I will definetly be doing some measuring when I get the box in just to make sure and if I do need some added clearance I'll raise the seat a bit to compensate. How/where did you mount your amp(s)? I planned on building an amp rack behind the seat out of some fiberboard and using an excessive amount of industrial Velcro to stick it to the back wall.
 

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I mounted the amps behind the rear seat. The only problem in doing so was that I had no access to them without removing the rear seat. I believe there is a modification that allows the back seat to fold down, but I never did it. It was 02 Silverado extended cab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will absolutely be doing the seat mod. I can't imagine not being able to tweak my amps after an initial setting. It takes me months to get everything right.... Maybe I'm just anal..... Or retarded lol. Any who how did you mount your amps to the rear wall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ya thats the easy and permanent way. Im attempting to accomplish this so it can be removed years from now when its time to sell the vehicle. Im sure my velcro idea will work very well the only concern i have is how the wide temperature ranges in montana will effect the tape. guess we will find out! If anything ill use some of that super double sided 3m sticky tape. a little more permanent but should be fine once i get everything i want mounted and in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Take a look at my build log

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...-phoenix-gold-outlaw-bandit-eclipse-jl-5.html

I did the back seat mod and I added threaded inserts to the back wall of the cab to let me screw the amp rack to the back wall. Skip to page 5 if you want to see the back seat mod.
I was extremely skeptical using those nutserts because I would have to drill holes trough my cab wall but i didnt realize how clean they look! That is a very very nice looking amp rack.

Questions:

1:Is that the stock carpet underneath the amp rack on the back wall? or could i use the stock carpet?

2:Why so little dynamat?

3: say I wanted to return the pickup to stock for sale in years to come. possible to just grind the nutserts semi flush so as to not leave a hole but stay hidden under the carpet?

4: How did you install the nutserts? did you have to remove the pickup box?

Thank you very much for this post. I will be saving this and using your work as a template for mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ya just realized that you would put the certs through from the inside and just have them sticking outside the cab towards the box. yes you could put bolts back in or plug them but then you got those ugly things sticking out the back of your cab. maybe im looking too deep into this. Im sure people wouldnt even notice or care. im probably just being a little too anal.
 
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