In a nutshell, I find that you get excellent results when you use extremely small sealed boxes. It's the same thing that a lot of us do with our subs - we get a ten or a twelve and put it in a box that's barely big enough to contain the basket. You can do the same thing with your midbasses.I'm pretty curious about making enclosures in the door (or well I guess just the idea of enclosures for mids in general).
#1 What is a good general size for the enclosure? I imagine that (obviously) it's going to vary from speaker to speaker, but are we talking like .3 - .5 being the range or upwards of a cube?
#2 I know that the benefit of putting them in an enclosure is mid bass, but is this at a cost of volume? I know with our board each speaker is in its own enclosure that if I had to take a guess I'd say is around .3 or so (totally guessing here). The mid bass response is good, but the woofer is moving so far that they can't really get cranked up super loud.
I could keep elaborating on my questions, but I think if you can answer the question then you already get the question. Thanks!!!!
The reason why it's so effective is that it's trivial to make bass in a car due to cabin gain, but it's hell trying to generate good midbass.
Basically, you get some serious "bang for the buck" when you seal up those midbasses, because it's in the midbass where we need all the help that we can get.
As for enclosure size, I could write a whole article on that, and I think I will. I'll need some time to put it together. Basically you have to follow a different criteria when you're selecting a sealed midbass, focusing on power handling and small enclosure size. A lot of car audio midbasses won't work very well because the QTS is too high.
But if you choose your drivers carefully, you'll enjoy a big bump in midbass power handling, and you'll get much deeper bass (because those damn doors leak too much.)