Skar 12 inch sub

2498 Views 84 Replies 10 Participants Last post by kemichael74, 13 d ago

kemichael74

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

I purchased an SDR 12 D4 a few weeks ago along with the prefabbed box that Skar sells. The sub requirements looked to be a perfect match with the box specs. I'm using the RP1200.1D and sub is wired for 2 ohms. Should be 800 watts from amp to the sub according to the amp specs. the Sub may be overpowered a little but i rarely max out my volume.

I was slightly disappointed when i first tuned everything and set gains. The low end I was looking for just doesn't seem to be there and quite frankly some songs just sound like @#it!!! I listen to everything, literally! I can do country today and tomorrow i'm thumping to some hip hop or rap. I love all music and loud. Subsonic is set for around 27hz and low pass is at 80hz. head unit crossovers are all off and i'm using amp crossover. I have a kenwood DPX505BT. It's only 2v preout. Sub volume is up all the way and EQ flat lined. I set all gains with EQ flat lined so I don't mess with it too much and the bass is there trust me. Sub volume is all I need. It gets loud dont get me wrong! But it's higher bass. the box says it's tuned to 32hz but i'm having a hard time believing that. Not sure why they would lie but anyways.

I had a Skar 10 inch tube running off an MTX 500.1D. Was sending 300 watts to this tube and the low end was WAY better than this SDR 12 in the prefabbed box. The tube also uses a port with flared ends and was designed to the sub that's in it. This current box has a slotted vent. Not sure how the two would affect low end. I will say this though. All the systems i've had in the past all had sub boxes that i built according to sub specs and i always used ports. this is the first box that i ever bought prefab as well as the slotted vent.

I am well aware that you get what you pay for and i also know that a lot of pro's and really serious audio enthusiasts HATE skar. What they have suits my needs and is hands down way better than the factory stereo.

So, what i'd like to know is this. Would custom building a box to the sub specs make the sub sound better even though the prefabbed "says" the specs i need for the sub? How about a port vs. slotted vent? I do know i definitely want ported. I don't feel i have enough power for sealed and I don't want to max the amp. I can play pretty damn loud and my headlights don't dim. I drive a chevy hhr so the box is not in a trunk but more like an suv/van enclosure.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

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kemichael74

Discussion Starter · #21 · 2 mo ago

Thomasluke7899 said:
My measurements yield an enclosure size much different than that of the manufacturer's for a more neutral response. The manufacturer's recommendation yield a peaky midbass response. Which is probably just fine with the people who are shopping for this.

From the link I just posted

what internal volume are you coming up with? Should it be more than the 1.75 - 2.00 that the manufacturer suggests?

kemichael74

Discussion Starter · #22 · 2 mo ago

ItsonlyaHONDA said:
You said your Head unit has crossovers? Why not use exact crossovers instead of the ones on the amp?

Took your advice. Using all crossover on head unit and set sub amp crossover all the way up. I went with 100hz for LP because of rock and country. I also think my subsonic was set too high. I turned that down a little. Turned box to fire upwards. Big difference. BUT still not the deep bass i'm after.

Do I waste the money to TRY building a better box or buy a better sub and keep the prefab?

ItsonlyaHONDA

· #23 · 2 mo ago

kemichael74 said:
Took your advice. Using all crossover on head unit and set sub amp crossover all the way up. I went with 100hz for LP because of rock and country. I also think my subsonic was set too high. I turned that down a little. Turned box to fire upwards. Big difference. BUT still not the deep bass i'm after.

Do I waste the money to TRY building a better box or buy a better sub and keep the prefab?

You won't want to hear what I have to say about that 🫨

I would get a better sub and a better box. I know it's not what you want to hear. But the box is no good for the low lows and the sub isn't either. The only thing that I would ever use made by skar is the VFX in a ported box tuned to a true 32hz.

But for the price of that sub there is better options.

Reactions: 1

Thomasluke7899

· #24 · 2 mo ago

kemichael74 said:
what internal volume are you coming up with? Should it be more than the 1.75 - 2.00 that the manufacturer suggests?

Thats a quote from Erin. A guy that reviews stuff. Most awesome guy.
Honda just said what I was about to say.
If you are within the return window. Do that.
Then grab you literally any other decent subwoofer.
Thats suitable to the power you got. Then build the box that sub wants to be in.
At this point in time there is no best subwoofer or box.
Im looking at a jl audio w7 8.....thinking I may have made another mistake buying what I want.
Instead of what would actually suit the little kia soul better.

Reactions: 1

Grinder

· #25 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

According to the specs on the Skar website, both of the 12" single-driver ported boxes are tuned to 36 Hz.

A flared port (tube or slot) will allow higher port velocity before the onset of port noise / chuffing versus non-flared counterpart. Generally speaking, apart from slot port area height-to-width ratio beyond 10:1 or so, there is little or no inherent difference in terms of sound or performance between slot port and tube port of equal area and length.

I am partial to modular flared tube port kits like this though, for minimal port area (and length) and relative ease of trying different lengths to see what sounds best:

www.parts-express.com

Home

Precision Port 4" Flared Speaker Cabinet Port Tube KitThe unique flared-end construction of the Precision Port™ system enables it to outperform any standard port tube on the market. Conventional tubes suffer from nasty turbulence at the entrance and exit of the port, producing unwanted noise and...

www.parts-express.com

WinISD modeling results:

EBP = 56.1 (leans slightly in favor of ported)
WinISD default box specs: 3.595 ft^3 net volume at 25.05 Hz tuning frequency = 21.89 Hz F3 (frequency at which response rolls off -3dB).

Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Pattern

Excursion at 600 W:

Rectangle Slope Line Font Plot

Vent velocity at 600 W with 4" x 12" tube port (25.05 Hz tuning frequency):

Rectangle Slope Line Font Plot

2.0 ft^3 net volume at 36 Hz tuning frequency = 30.27 Hz F3:

Rectangle Font Slope Parallel Pattern

Not sure I trust Skar T/S parameters, though...

Still, if you've got the space for it, modeling results suggest it might be well worth your while to build the 3.595 ft^3 net volume at 25.05 Hz box and see how it goes.

However, if you can return the Skar sub and box, and if you have it in your budget to buy a better sub (Dayton, for example) and build your own box, I'd go ahead and do that.

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kemichael74

Discussion Starter · #26 · 2 mo ago

Grinder said:
According to the specs on the Skar website, both of the 12" single-driver ported boxes are tuned to 36 Hz.

A flared port (tube or slot) will allow higher port velocity before onset of port noise / chuffing versus non-flared counterpart. Generally speaking, apart from slot port area height-to-width ratio beyond 10:1 or so, there is little or no inherent difference in terms of sound or performance between slot port and tube port of equal area and length.

WinISD modeling results:

EBP = 56.1 (leans slightly in favor of ported)
WinISD default box specs: 3.595 ft^3 net volume at 25.05 Hz tuning frequency = 21.89 Hz F3 (frequency at which response rolls off -3dB).
View attachment 374027

Excursion at 600 W:
View attachment 374029

Vent velocity at 600 W with 4" x 12" tube port (25.05 Hz tuning frequency):
View attachment 374030

2.0 ft^3 net volume at 36 Hz tuning frequency = 30.27 Hz F3:
View attachment 374031

Not sure I trust Skar T/S parameters, though...

Still, if you've got the space for it, modeling results suggest it might be well worth your while to build the 3.595 ft^3 net volume at 25.05 Hz box and see how it goes.

However, if you can return the sub and box, and if you have it in your budget to buy a better sub (Dayton, for example) and build your own box, I'd go ahead and do that.

oh it's way out of return period. Probably a good 2-3 months past. Someone will buy it if I put it on Market place for like $50 with the box. I need some direction as to what i should actually be looking for in a sub to get what i'm expecting. Used to be good at this stuff back in the 90's but their were only a handful of decent subs back then. Now there are tons. I knew better not to buy that prefab box but tried to save some time.

I really can't spend more than $150 on a subwoofer. If anyone can recommend a good 12 inch dual 4 ohm, or a single 2 ohm reply back

Grinder

· #27 · 2 mo ago

kemichael74 said:
oh it's way out of return period. Probably a good 2-3 months past. Someone will buy it if I put it on Market place for like $50 with the box. I need some direction as to what i should actually be looking for in a sub to get what i'm expecting. Used to be good at this stuff back in the 90's but their were only a handful of decent subs back then. Now there are tons. I knew better not to buy that prefab box but tried to save some time.

I really can't spend more than $150 on a subwoofer. If anyone can recommend a good 12 inch dual 4 ohm, or a single 2 ohm reply back

In that case, why not go ahead and build the 3.595 ft^3 net volume at 25.05 Hz box and see how it goes? That modeled frequency response looks very nice. You can always get another sub for that box later if you're not happy.

ItsonlyaHONDA

· #28 · 2 mo ago

kemichael74 said:
oh it's way out of return period. Probably a good 2-3 months past. Someone will buy it if I put it on Market place for like $50 with the box. I need some direction as to what i should actually be looking for in a sub to get what i'm expecting. Used to be good at this stuff back in the 90's but their were only a handful of decent subs back then. Now there are tons. I knew better not to buy that prefab box but tried to save some time.

I really can't spend more than $150 on a subwoofer. If anyone can recommend a good 12 inch dual 4 ohm, or a single 2 ohm reply back

I've seared for a sub that I could recommend that meet your requirements..... I couldn't find one 😞. 150$ is not enough. At least not a D4 there's some good daytons around that price range but the are D2s. Maybe you could start a WTB thread and ask if any one would part with a D4 sub for 150$.

Reactions: 1

Grinder

· #29 · 2 mo ago

ItsonlyaHONDA said:
I've seared for a sub that I could recommend that meet your requirements..... I couldn't find one 😞. 150$ is not enough. At least not a D4 there's some good daytons around that price range but the are D2s. Maybe you could start a WTB thread and ask if any one would part with a D4 sub for 150$.

Same here. Lots of great options in the $200 - $250 ish range, and nearly all of those those are D2 or S4.

This is an awesome SQ sub, and one of the very few D4s, and it's on sale right now for $220:

www.parts-express.com

Home

Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference Series HO DVC SubwooferThe Dayton Audio Reference Series subwoofers take the quality and performance of the much acclaimed RS line into the subwoofer realm. As with the rest of the Reference Series, the main focus of these subwoofers is...

www.parts-express.com

Reactions: 1

ItsonlyaHONDA

· #30 · 2 mo ago

Grinder said:
Same here. Lots of great options in the $200 - $250 ish range, and nearly all of those those are D2 or S4.

This is an awesome SQ sub, and one of the very few D4s, and it's on sale right now for $220:

Home

Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference Series HO DVC SubwooferThe Dayton Audio Reference Series subwoofers take the quality and performance of the much acclaimed RS line into the subwoofer realm. As with the rest of the Reference Series, the main focus of these subwoofers is...

www.parts-express.com

You found one!!! That will be perfect if he willing to add a few more bucks to his budget.

Reactions: 1

Grinder

· #31 · 2 mo ago

Here's that Dayton HO-44 in 1.5 ft^3 at 25 Hz = 24.5 Hz F3 (excursion at 700 W):

Rectangle Font Slope Parallel Pattern

Rectangle Slope Line Font Parallel

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2

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Grinder

· #32 · 2 mo ago

ItsonlyaHONDA said:
You found one!!! That will be perfect if he willing to add a few more bucks to his budget.

Yes, and I have first-hand experience with it. Only trouble is it's a small-box sub, so for the above alignment it needs a long slot port (for example, at minimum port area,1.25" x 10" x 33"):

Rectangle Slope Line Plot Font

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ItsonlyaHONDA

· #33 · 2 mo ago

Grinder said:
Yes, and I have first-hand experience with it. Only trouble is it's a small-box sub, so for the above alignment it needs a long slot port (for example, at minimum port area,1.25" x 10" x 33"):
View attachment 374043

Kinda like the SQL 😒. But the real question is Do It Bump Doe!?!? 😃

Reactions: 2

Grinder

· #34 · 2 mo ago

I still say, assuming OP has room for the 3.5 cube box, go ahead and build that box for the Skar and see how it goes. Based on the modeling results, it seems well worth a shot.

I Bet It Do Bump Doe!

Reactions: 1

kemichael74

Discussion Starter · #35 · 2 mo ago

Wow, you guys really get to it when someone needs help, lol! I do appreciate it! It doesn't have to be a D4 but that's how i'll get max power with a single sub for the amp i have. I can do the D2 but that'll drop me to 1ohm and 1200W and she's gonna really draw for power and i don't really want to run the amp like that. Plus i think i'll start drowning my speakers. they are only 125x4 6.5's components with tweeters paralleled to each driver. I put them in the back for my kid, lol! I can wire the D2 to 4ohms or an S4 but then i'm at 500 watts. If i keep it at 2ohms i'll get 800 watts.

I'm definitely writing these sub brands down so i remember. If the wife sees another sub she's gonna be pissed. She said i shouldn't be acting like a teenager at 48 yrs old! It's hilarious when we are in her Equinox and she cranks up her radio. My daughter just looks at me and rolls her eyes and point blank tells her mom how much her radio sucks! I spoiled my 13 year old, even with the lousy sub.

I still can't complain. The thing still hits but the last 3 months i've been like, man all my other cars you could hear me 2 blocks away. I have no interest in being the loudest bass in the neihborhood, but i do want it to sound good. I want deep, rich bass.

Well, i will get on subbox.pro and see what kind of dimensions we are looking at for the specs Grinder gave.

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Reactions: 3

davidsaunders1988

· #36 · 2 mo ago

I was going through the same with my sdr 10
Build a right rear slotted box 20% larger than recommended. Also if your using the bass knob un plug it from the amp and see what happens. I had a weird issue with mine. Keep trying different things you’ll get there I was in the same position when I got the 10 but in satisfied with it now

Mcocell

· #37 · 2 mo ago

ItsonlyaHONDA said:
Kinda like the SQL 😒. But the real question is Do It Bump Doe!?!? 😃

It’s always a fun day when you post, lol!

Reactions: 1

kemichael74

Discussion Starter · #38 · 2 mo ago

davidsaunders1988 said:
I was going through the same with my sdr 10
Build a right rear slotted box 20% larger than recommended. Also if your using the bass knob un plug it from the amp and see what happens. I had a weird issue with mine. Keep trying different things you’ll get there I was in the same position when I got the 10 but in satisfied with it now

yeah, i was using that bass knob and i think it sucks! unhooked it. before i got this skar amp i had an MTX thunder 550.1D with a bass knob and it worked way better! Should have just kept that amp and the tube i had because it did sound good. Was running front and rear Kicker CS series coax 6.5's off the HU and it really was a good decent setup for not having to spend big bucks. but no, I wanted MORE.

I'm remembering now why i phased out of this hobby. I'm never happy too long with what i have, lol!

Thomasluke7899

· #39 · 2 mo ago

kemichael74 said:
yeah, i was using that bass knob and i think it sucks! unhooked it. before i got this skar amp i had an MTX thunder 550.1D with a bass knob and it worked way better! Should have just kept that amp and the tube i had because it did sound good. Was running front and rear Kicker CS series coax 6.5's off the HU and it really was a good decent setup for not having to spend big bucks. but no, I wanted MORE.

I'm remembering now why i phased out of this hobby. I'm never happy too long with what i have, lol!

So just stop now. Stop buying stuff. Do more research on your own.
Like go to crutchfeild look at the subs.
Compare size, xmax and the fs to price.
Generally speaking the more money you spend will get you more xmax and a lower fs for a given woofer size.
Look a jl audio 12 w6. The specs. All of them. Maybe right them down.
Then try and find the cheapest woofer that emulates those specs and is also from reputable company.
Honestly....
I've been eye balling these

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: CT Sounds MESO-8-D4 1600 Watts Max 8 Inch Car Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm

Amazon.com: CT Sounds MESO-8-D4 1600 Watts Max 8 Inch Car Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm

www.amazon.com

davidsaunders1988

· #40 · 2 mo ago

kemichael74 said:
Took your advice. Using all crossover on head unit and set sub amp crossover all the way up. I went with 100hz for LP because of rock and country. I also think my subsonic was set too high. I turned that down a little. Turned box to fire upwards. Big difference. BUT still not the deep bass i'm after.

Do I waste the money to TRY building a better box or buy a better sub and keep the prefab?

Are u using the bass knob? if so unplug from amp!! I had an issue with mine. also might wanna get the skar eq it have 10v preamp outputs or a loc with gain ajustment my 10 was dissapointing till i did that and built a right rear slot encloser tuned at 36 total volume 1.87
good luck

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