DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Morel speakers have a smaller negative terminal than the positive. I have the correct size female ends for the positive but none for the negative. I certainly can go to a local shop and see if they have them but would it be better/ok to just solder the wire to the terminal?
I guess I could also try to put the larger female ends on them and try to crimp them. Just seems like I did that once years ago and I was concerned about breaking the actual terminal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
I also believe you put the voice coil in danger when you solder. If you apply too much heat for too long, the heat will travel up and ruin it. Doesn't mean you can't solder. You just need to know what you doing and get in and out quick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Fair enough. I'll check the local shop.

One issue is the old connectors (that came with the morels) seem to be for a smaller gauge wire. My concern is that if I can find one of the smaller sized female connectors it won't allow my new 14 gauge wire to fit.

Ugh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Ronin. I know what gauge I am using. The new wire I just ran for all of my speakers is 14 gauge. The original wire adapter I got from crutchfiled when I got the morels is a smaller gauge. And Morel supplied the female connectors IIRC.

BUt I will bring the adapter at least. This local shop just doesn't really seem helpful when you go in there and spend big $. BUt I'll go by there tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,405 Posts
Thanks Ronin. I know what gauge I am using. The new wire I just ran for all of my speakers is 14 gauge. The original wire adapter I got from crutchfiled when I got the morels is a smaller gauge. And Morel supplied the female connectors IIRC.



BUt I will bring the adapter at least. This local shop just doesn't really seem helpful when you go in there and spend big $. BUt I'll go by there tomorrow.


Xt60 connectors from hobby shops only thing to use. Won't use anything else ever again. Solder wires on to the speaker with heat shrink and never worry about it. Make your pigtails a bit longer than these in the pic for easier install.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,179 Posts
My Morel speakers have a smaller negative terminal than the positive. I have the correct size female ends for the positive but none for the negative. I certainly can go to a local shop and see if they have them but would it be better/ok to just solder the wire to the terminal?

I guess I could also try to put the larger female ends on them and try to crimp them. Just seems like I did that once years ago and I was concerned about breaking the actual terminal.
Autozone sells 3 different sizes of gold plated female disconnect terminals, 0.110", 0.250" and one slightly smaller than 0.250". Just head down to your local store and pick some up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,179 Posts
0.187" is the middle size.
 

·
Blue Collar Audiophile
Joined
·
10,287 Posts
Just put in an order for Parts Express for a few different sizes. You'll have enough to never need to buy connecters again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Soldering terminals can be tricky as noted in the first few posts.

There are some AF speakers where Andy has said they should not be soldered because it can pull the solder off the internal ohm switch hardware and cause a malfunction. Nothing wrong with any of the designs in either camp, that require a push pin or a have a set screw terminal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,532 Posts
I've heard it all now. soldering wire to the speaker terminal can damage the VC, thats absurd unless you really have zero idea how to solder. do it right with slide on connectors, silly as hell, solder is your very best connection, period, unless you have no idea how to solder
 
  • Like
Reactions: dumdum

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,272 Posts
I also believe you put the voice coil in danger when you solder. If you apply too much heat for too long, the heat will travel up and ruin it. Doesn't mean you can't solder. You just need to know what you doing and get in and out quick.
If you need to apply heat for that long, you really need to reevaluate your soldering techniques. Also, the tinsel lead would desolder from the terminal before the coil even felt anything. Also, coils see some pretty high temps. They can handle it (even if the heat somehow made it's way that far up).

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: dumdum

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Autozone sells 3 different sizes of gold plated female disconnect terminals, 0.110", 0.250" and one slightly smaller than 0.250". Just head down to your local store and pick some up.
Thanks. I will try them first. I actually did look at their site but couldn't find any so I'll just stop by.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Autozone sells 3 different sizes of gold plated female disconnect terminals, 0.110", 0.250" and one slightly smaller than 0.250". Just head down to your local store and pick some up.
This.

I've done this for my last couple installs. I hate paying for shipping when it costs more than the part I'm buying.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
In general, the blue insulated connectors accept 14-16 awg, the red 18-22 awg and the yellow 10-12 awg.

Car speakers seem to be all over the place but the "standard" terminal size on musical instrument speakers is a .187 female. I (and many others) use a .205 male to connect to the .187 female. It's a snug but not insanely tight fit as the .187 would be. I can solder like a champ but I never solder to speaker terminals. I just don't find it necessary but it certainly can be done. I have replaced speaker terminal boards and had to de-solder and then re-solder the tinsel leads. Using a heat sink on the tinsel lead is the safest way to do it and that's what I do. May or may not be possible with some 6.5" and smaller drivers, depending on the basket and the size/type of heatsink.

I'd just find the right size crimp connectors. Just my 2 cents.
 

·
Blue Collar Audiophile
Joined
·
10,287 Posts
While I do agree soldering direct to the speaker terminals is your BEST connection I've found speakers are a lot harder to sell without practically giving them away when you're done with them if you have pigtails dangling off of the terminals. This is strictly my experience. The terminals on most speakers are made for female slide connectors and that's what I use now. Takes a bit of patience to get just the right fit but worth it in my opinion. Also, I HATE set screws on speakers and subs. Never fully trusted them. I wish Andy would completely do away with set screws on the Audiofrog drivers. Would also like to run an RE SEX sub again since I loved my old RE SE subs I owned but the set screws...and not sure if they sound the same as the ones made in Vegas years ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
While I do agree soldering direct to the speaker terminals is your BEST connection I've found speakers are a lot harder to sell without practically giving them away when you're done with them if you have pigtails dangling off of the terminals. This is strictly my experience. The terminals on most speakers are made for female slide connectors and that's what I use now. Takes a bit of patience to get just the right fit but worth it in my opinion. Also, I HATE set screws on speakers and subs. Never fully trusted them. I wish Andy would completely do away with set screws on the Audiofrog drivers. Would also like to run an RE SEX sub again since I loved my old RE SE subs I owned but the set screws...and not sure if they sound the same as the ones made in Vegas years ago.
Soldering really isn't my forte, but I think if you were to heat it back up, apply some desoldering wick, and give her a wipe they might be a bit more presentable.

The screw terminals have been something I've given a bit of thought about recently as well. Having one rattle loose is concerning. Loctite on the set screw could electrically isolate it, and though it would probably still work it wouldn't be ideal. However I think that adding a dab of adhesive after they've already been torqued down might keep them in place without consequence. A drop of CA would be invisible, but the residue. Perhaps a smidge of silicone, high temp rtv, shoe goo, etc instead as it could be removed more easily and cleanly? I'm unsure, but it's something I've given thought to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
If you need to apply heat for that long, you really need to reevaluate your soldering techniques. Also, the tinsel lead would desolder from the terminal before the coil even felt anything. Also, coils see some pretty high temps. They can handle it (even if the heat somehow made it's way that far up).

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
That was my misconception. I remembered reading some form of damage could occur. It was the tinsel. But not only could you de-solder it, you could also stiffen it, causing it to break over time. Most people do not know how to solder correctly and will use an entry level iron with too small of a tip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,272 Posts
That was my misconception. I remembered reading some form of damage could occur. It was the tinsel. But not only could you de-solder it, you could also stiffen it, causing it to break over time. Most people do not know how to solder correctly and will use an entry level iron with too small of a tip.
it could stiffen if the pre-existing solder wicked up it more. but again, if someone is taking that long to solder to a terminal, their soldering is the issue. that said, there are speakers you shouldnt solder to. Audiofrog GS for example. Reason being the terminals are held in by plastic.
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top