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Discussion Starter #1
I'm working on sound deadening a 08 honda accord rear deck with dynamat extreme. The rear deck is a single metal layer with the back exposed in the trunk. The rear deck holds the factory rears (which I still plan to use) and a 8" sub-woofer that I don't plan to use.

Two questions:
1) Does the back side of the rear deck need to be sound deadened?

2) Should I fill the 8" woofer hole with some flashing and deaden over it? Or leave the unused woofer in? Or leave the hole empty?

Thanks in advance for the tips\help!
- Ben
 

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I'm working on sound deadening a 08 honda accord rear deck with dynamat extreme. The rear deck is a single metal layer with the back exposed in the trunk. The rear deck holds the factory rears (which I still plan to use) and a 8" sub-woofer that I don't plan to use.

Two questions:
1) Does the back side of the rear deck need to be sound deadened?

2) Should I fill the 8" woofer hole with some flashing and deaden over it? Or leave the unused woofer in? Or leave the hole empty?

Thanks in advance for the tips\help!
- Ben
I would just leave the factory sub in place. If you want to close it up with flashing and deaden over it go for it but remember when you want to sell the car? Definitely deaden the rear deck! also take out the spare temporarily then deaden the entire tire well and most metal you can get to. This will make a huge improvement in your bass response. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did the rear deck (front side) already and plan to do the trunk completely tomorrow.

But what I'm wanting to know is if there is any reason to do the back side of the rear shelf? I'm guessing not as the vibration should be dampened with a single side deadened???
 

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Knock on the metal with your knuckles or a screwdriver handle. If it doesn't make a dull thud then try putting on more dynamat in a test area and try the rap test again. My guess is doing the top side will be adequate.
 

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I would just cut some wood the same shape as the sub and mount it in it's place.... then do ib :)
 

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It really depends what problem you are trying to solve and where your sub is. Rattles, either between the steel shelf and trim panel or trim panel and rear window are going to need a decoupler more than a vibration damper, or at least in addition to. If your sub is IB, you'll need to seal it up, one way or another.

There are at least 5 or 6 other scenarios I can imagine. Each would require a different rear deck treatment.

Tapping before you apply vibration damper is a good way to identify resonant areas. Tapping AS you install will always lead you to install too much. Mechanically exciting an object isn't the same as what it will experience in normal use.
 
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