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Discussion Starter #1
My 2011 ford fusion has pretty sealed up doors. I'm wondering what options I have to kill backwave reverberations. I tapped on my speaker just now with the door cards off and it sounds like a racket ball Court. Really tinny, kind of an echo. Heres a pic. I was to stupid to take my own so I screen shotted this of a youtube video. My problem is I can't get my arm in there even enough to Clean let alone trying to use cld inside there. The whole aluminum panel is riveted to the door so the only way is is to drill it and add new rivots or nuts and bolts. I'm worried if I open it I'll screw something up with my window motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
open it up and have at it
Your right. I just watched a video on replacing the window regator. I'm good with electronics and Mechanical, I guess I'm just being a sissy.

Once it's open I can clean it and put cld over the whole thing. Do you recommend me putting anything else in there while I have it apart?
 

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Your right. I just watched a video on replacing the window regator. I'm good with electronics and Mechanical, I guess I'm just being a sissy.

Once it's open I can clean it and put cld over the whole thing. Do you recommend me putting anything else in there while I have it apart?
depends on budget and goals and what your installing in the door.

Bare minimum that i recommend is CLD out the outer skin, spot treat CLD on the inner skin, CCF on the inner skin, and spot treat the door panel with CLD.
 

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I had to paint that aluminum with primer cause cld would not stick at all on the inner door skin. I spot treated it cause it's pretty bumpy and not a lot of area to get in good size pieces. My door cards have cld and ccf. I wanna do it once so I wanna do it right.
 

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I had to paint that aluminum with primer cause cld would not stick at all on the inner door skin. I spot treated it cause it's pretty bumpy and not a lot of area to get in good size pieces. My door cards have cld and ccf. I wanna do it once so I wanna do it right.
Read through this then. Also check out our vehicle database. We havent done that car yet, but may have done something similar

https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/reference-information/
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had to paint that aluminum with primer cause cld would not stick at all on the inner door skin. I spot treated it cause it's pretty bumpy and not a lot of area to get in good size pieces. My door cards have cld and ccf. I wanna do it once so I wanna do it right.
Read through this then. Also check out our vehicle database. We havent done that car yet, but may have done something similar

https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/reference-information/
Sweet. I'll check it out. I've been on your site before but didn't retain any information.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All done. I guess all I needed was a little motivation. I was able to cover 90% with cld. I wasn't able to get mlv but I had some closed cell foam eggcrate style foam and I covered most the inside. Hopefully it doesn't hold water. I'm in San Diego and don't see rain as much as the rest.
 

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All done. I guess all I needed was a little motivation. I was able to cover 90% with cld. I wasn't able to get mlv but I had some closed cell foam eggcrate style foam and I covered most the inside. Hopefully it doesn't hold water. I'm in San Diego and don't see rain as much as the rest.
egg crate foam is usually open cell. I hope you didnt put that inside of the door cavity
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did. I'm pretty sure it's closed cell. I grabbed it from my work awhile back and don't know where it came from. It feels like it's made out of have rubber. My boss said it was closed cell. Maybe I'll find out what it is and pull it if it's no bueno
 

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well, putting closed cell inside of the door cavity (between the outer and inner skin and no in between the inner door skin and door panel) is useless. It should go between the inner skin and door panel to prevent the two from rattling against each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well, putting closed cell inside of the door cavity (between the outer and inner skin and no in between the inner door skin and door panel) is useless. It should go between the inner skin and door panel to prevent the two from rattling against each other.
I do have thinner closed cell foam between the door card and door. It was easier to attach to the card so I went that route. I got it from parts express. It's not really thick but my door is already pretty tight to get on with that in there. Here it is.

https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-ab-4-sound-insulation-absorbing-sheets-315-x-1968-4-pcs--268-048
 

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CCF only stops vibration between surfaces. It doesn't absorb sound frequency's! So putting it inside the inner skin was a waste. The only product I'd use that's foam based is hydrophobic melamine foam inside a door cavity for sound frequency absorption.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
CCF only stops vibration between surfaces. It doesn't absorb sound frequency's! So putting it inside the inner skin was a waste. The only product I'd use that's foam based is hydrophobic melamine foam inside a door cavity for sound frequency absorption.
I read that yesterday somewhere. I'm gonna pull it out and get some mlv.
 

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CCF only stops vibration between surfaces. It doesn't absorb sound frequency's! So putting it inside the inner skin was a waste. The only product I'd use that's foam based is hydrophobic melamine foam inside a door cavity for sound frequency absorption.
The hydrophobic layer on melamine falls off very quickly. I wouldn't put that in there as well.

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