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Discussion Starter #1
Upon my recent purchase I've decided I'd be cheating myself if I didn't deaden my doors. I've read a few tutorials, including npdang's, on different ways of deadening. It kinda confused me because there are so many different ways to do it. What I'm looking for is a cheap and effective way, it doesn't have to be 100% world class deadening if you know what I mean. I've never deadeneddeded a door, or car, before. What is a nice and easy way of sealing a door? I plan to dynamat, seal, and add some kind of deadening behind the driver, not sure what though, maybe dynamat's little thinga-ma-jig that they have, and also a foam baffle(like XTC). But as far as the clay and all that stuff goes, that seems to much for what I'm lookin for but maybe I'm wrong. Am I off to the right direction?
 

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Here is what I did in my vehicle:

1. Inside of outer door shell: 2 layers of Butyl Mat and 2 layers of Ensolite foam
2. Outside of inner door shell: 1 layer of Butyl Mat everywhere I could reach
3. Inside of inner door shell: Covered opening with thick aluminum flashing, covered door with minimum of 2 layers of Butyl Mat, covered entire door with Ensolite.
4. Built ¾ inch MDF Baffle (covered in resin), used weather stripping between baffle/door, and baffle/speaker. Used non hardening clay to mass load around baffle and speaker.

I purchased my products from RAAMaudio used RAAMmat and Ensolite. I have used Rick in the past and will continue to use his products he is simply a joy to work with. You could also take a look at Second Skin products to.

On the RAAMaudio website there is a great How-To section that is worth checking out.

Hope this helps
 

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

What he said...
 

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I ended up going with Raamat. I generally go with a better quality customer service than a better quality product. I chose Raamat for several reasons: 1) Many people say Rick is a stand-up guy. Even when he was in the process of transitioning from SoCal to his current digs, he was still answering Emails and questions, following up with people.....the personal touch helps.
2) Raamat may not be the "best of the best", but it does what it says it does at a price slightly better (figuring in shipping) than buying other stuff like Dynamat. 3) You're actually dealing with a real person, rather than a big box company like BestBuy/Fry/etc. Rick sells 1 product and bases his business around it. If he makes $, it's because his product works.
 

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Sealing the door is a critical step - for driver performance if you have one in the door and for noise blocking even if you don't. Flashing works well, but you can use plexi, any kind of sheet metal, fiberglass or even MDF if you waterproof it first.

IMO it is worth the effort to make the access hole covers removable since you will almost certainly need to get inside your doors at some point in the future. Sucks to have to hack your way through sound deadening materials to get in there.
 

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Sealing the door is a critical step - for driver performance if you have one in the door and for noise blocking even if you don't. Flashing works well, but you can use plexi, any kind of sheet metal, fiberglass or even MDF if you waterproof it first.

IMO it is worth the effort to make the access hole covers removable since you will almost certainly need to get inside your doors at some point in the future. Sucks to have to hack your way through sound deadening materials to get in there.
this is probably a pretty dumb question, but how do them make them accessible? I've been thinking about the same problem for my first deadening project.
 

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this is probably a pretty dumb question, but how do them make them accessible? I've been thinking about the same problem for my first deadening project.
Use self tapping screws or something similar to hold the covers in place. Seal them with a non-permanent adhesive like silicone. If you put deadener on the covers, do it separately.
 

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Sealing the door is a critical step - for driver performance if you have one in the door and for noise blocking even if you don't. Flashing works well, but you can use plexi, any kind of sheet metal, fiberglass or even MDF if you waterproof it first.

IMO it is worth the effort to make the access hole covers removable since you will almost certainly need to get inside your doors at some point in the future. Sucks to have to hack your way through sound deadening materials to get in there.
I second that. I put one layer on the door skin (2 behind the 6.5" driver). Then I sealed up all the holes with aluminum flashing and liquid nails, and then raammatted over them. Now I've seen several people recommend putting two layers on the door skin, but I'm dreading pulling off all that raammat and flashing. If I had screwed them in and raammatted the aluminum covers separately, I'd be much more willing to take the time to go back in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I second that. I put one layer on the door skin (2 behind the 6.5" driver). Then I sealed up all the holes with aluminum flashing and liquid nails, and then raammatted over them. Now I've seen several people recommend putting two layers on the door skin, but I'm dreading pulling off all that raammat and flashing. If I had screwed them in and raammatted the aluminum covers separately, I'd be much more willing to take the time to go back in there.
This aluminum flashing...... is this just a roll of flexable aluminum?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
They sell it in rolls at Home Depot in the roofing department - about $10.00 for more than you need.

Huh..... well that's pretty damn nifty.
 
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