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Yeah the other problem with noico is it falls flat in any sort of thermal testing and will melt quickly.
Something is absolutely better than nothing!
Would suggest giving it a try at some point though The difference between resonix and other brands is stark. Your doors will be able to take much more power before giving up the ghost and rattling to death.
totally agree brother. in my mind talking with different peeps it all comes down to cost for the most part now if you are going to have a **** ton of money in your system then you will want the best. one i am building now equipment wise is about 4 to 5 k and no wwhen i get my new truck probably gonna be using the resonix
 

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Weird how sound deadening topics get turned into an echo chamber for a specific product.


Also weird how everyone acts like the only important part of sound treatment is CLD.

I've treated the Stereo Integrity Audi with Second Skin products and the results creep people out when they're in the car.

Here's the door video. I showed in that video how you can hear a difference in ringing of the panel with SDS tiles vs 100% coverage with Damplifier Pro. Even with 100% coverage I could identify areas on the door skin where I physically couldn't apply CLD. I used another material in those areas and achieved what people say doesn't work.

No matter what product I applied to that door, the results would've been the same. I'd still be able to ID untreated areas of the door.


And here's a video that goes over all of the changes in the car. The mic pics up the massive difference between talking outside of the car vs inside. It's like an anechoic chamber inside. People are actually freaked out by how quiet it is. They hear their tinnitus, their heartbeat. Even with no sub in the car and a massive hole in the floor, it's crazy quiet inside.


This one shows just how quiet it is - even with the hatch open - when playing with the door closed vs the door open.


There's much more to sound treatment than just CLD/deadening. Not sure why people seem to get hung up on the CLD aspect of what is a much larger process.


And for whatever reason, it always turns into a fuggin' brand battle, but fact is that Second Skin has the single best product line out there.
 

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Weird how sound deadening topics get turned into an echo chamber for a specific product.


Also weird how everyone acts like the only important part of sound treatment is CLD.

I've treated the Stereo Integrity Audi with Second Skin products and the results creep people out when they're in the car.

Here's the door card video. I showed in that video how you can hear a difference in ringing of the panel with SDS tiles vs 100% coverage with Damplifier Pro. Even with 100% coverage I could identify areas on the door skin where I physically couldn't apply CLD. I used another material in those areas and achieved what people say doesn't work.

No matter what product I applied to that door, the results would've been the same. I'd still be able to ID untreated areas of the door.


And here's a video that goes over all of the changes in the car. The mic pics up the massive difference between talking outside of the car vs inside. It's like an anechoic chamber inside. People are actually freaked out by how quiet it is. They hear their tinnitus, their heartbeat. Even with no sub in the car and a massive hole in the floor, it's crazy quiet inside.


This one shows just how quiet it is - even with the hatch open - when playing with the door closed vs the door open.


There's much more to sound treatment than just CLD/deadening. Not sure why people seem to get hung up on that aspect of what is a much larger process.


And for whatever reason, it always turns into a fuggin' brand battle, but fact is that Second Skin has the single best product line out there.
Second Skin is phenomenal, as I am have used a bunch of it and love it. You seem to be pretty unbiased and logical. Do you know if they make their products in house? They are made in USA which leads me to believe they are in house.

A prominent member here claimed no brand rolls their stuff in house. Just curious.
 

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Second Skin is phenomenal, as I am have used a bunch of it and love it. You seem to be pretty unbiased and logical. Do you know if they make their products in house? They are made in USA which leads me to believe they are in house.

A prominent member here claimed no brand rolls their stuff in house. Just curious.
I screwed up that post you quoted. Posted the same video twice. Fixed it. Should be three different videos now.

I DO know that they've been contacted by another CLD manufacturer and have been asked to make stuff for that other company. Weird.

I also know that a different CLD company has ordered their product. If I had to guess I'd say that was for testing/research.

It's funny that there's so much talk about only CLD and not the bigger process as a whole.

I don't know about "in house", but it's American made. You can look at the product pages on the website and see that.

The exception I do know of is their Mega Zorbe and Mega Zorbe Pro melamine foam. It's made in Germany and gets the hydrophobic treatment here in the US.

I've also seen prominent members make statements that are false, only to be presented with facts that they ignore and would rather believe whatever alternate story/reality they're looking for in an attempt to disparage another company.

Three topics sure to start an argument? Religion, politics, and CLD. 😂


What's funny is that I was at a shop two days ago getting them set up to do higher end work than what they're doing currently. Tools, product, equipment, and so on.

I was on the phone with a rep placing an order for product and while doing so someone else at the shop was filling out account info to get the shop set up as a Second Skin dealer. I went in to make changes at the shop and that day was particularly busy making sure dealer accounts were not only set up, but submitted/received before placing orders.

Anyway, the other person asked me for some info on the dealer form and I gave it to them.

I apologized to the rep on the phone for the distraction and all of a sudden the discussion turned to why we're using Second Skin vs Brand X.

Told him because I have experience with Brand X. Installed a bunch of it in a GTR when Brand X hit the market and Brand X melted. Told him "You can imagine how that went"

Anyway, he gave me what was essentially a Brand X sales pitch. Told him Second Skin has the single best product line on the market so that's what we're using.

I received a call from Brand X a short time later. As a matter of fact I received THREE calls from Brand X. One of them was the owner. He also gave the pitch and I had the same conversation with him about melting product and overall product line-up. He's sending free product in an attempt to get us to jump ship.

Not happening.
 

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It’s pretty easy to deal with when it gets on your nice pants…you toss them. Never ever will I skimp again though I didn’t think I was skimping many, many years ago when I bought Raamat. I live in TN and every summer it would leak out of my old car until I finally got rid of it.
dgage and I live about two hours away. I've had Resonix installed since Skizer started shipping and I have no failures.
 

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dgage and I live about two hours away. I've had Resonix installed since Skizer started shipping and I have no failures.
I think our biggest customer install testament (that I'm aware of) to the heat resistance of ResoNix is of a member of this form. He purchased the product when I first opened preorders and got it in the first batch of shipments I ever did. How did he use it? On the exhaust shield of his side by side. To make it even better.. he's located in Phoenix Arizona.

He messages me occasionally and let's me know that it's still staying put without any sign of giving up. He also recently sent me some other brands products in his vehicle melting though..
 

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Well to some extent I will serve as a test case for the Soundshield 2.0 to see if the product is susceptible to melting. I live in a northern state, Michigan; however, it does reach 90+ consecutive days and my vehicle is black. The soundskin that I left on my car is on the inner door skin of driver’s door.

My drivers doors was fully covered with Soundskin and I had started the inside portion of the passenger door. After reading the debate on Soundskin melting and seeing a photo of one particular case, I decided to remove the Soundskin from my vehicle and replace it with Dynamat Extreme.

I pulled the few pieces of Soundskin off the inner door panel on passenger side that I started, what an absolute nightmare that was! After forming a blister on my finger and scraping the crap out of my hands from reaching inside the door panel (should've wore gloves but didn't) I started over with Dynamat Extreme.

When it came to the driver’s door that was fully covered, I could only muster up the strength and endurance to remove everything off the outside of the door skin and the door trim panel; therefore, I still have Soundskin located on the inside of my driver’s door so that will be the test case.

For the record, I liked working with/installing the Dynamat Extreme way better.

Full Soundskin Door

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Bumper Automotive exterior


Soundskin Door Panel

Automotive tire Audio equipment Computer hardware Electronic component Engineering


Removed all but inner portion of Soundskin

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Steering part Gas Auto part


Passenger door with complete Dynamat Extreme

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design
 

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Weird how sound deadening topics get turned into an echo chamber for a specific product.
I had no idea you were batdoggarage. Love your videos. Theyre very informative. Watched the sound treatment ones multiple times and never knew about rockwool until watching the ones you used it in for the doors/floor braces.
 

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I have a feeling the melting issues for any brand may be cases of bad batches of product or faulty installation prep as apposed to an inherently poor product. I have Raammat installed on the roof of a desert truck that has sat uncovered for its entire life in southern California. It sees outdoor temps over 90 degrees regularly and over 100 several times a year. The windows are shut and it hasn't been driven in a couple years and I've had zero issues with melting. It's been installed for nearly 15 years now, so if it was going to fail, it most certainly would by now.
 

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i have only used Dmat extreme. I dont know if it was the best then or now, but was super consistent. When I purchased, the shop I purchased from told me they have never ever had an issue with it. They could not say this with other products they brought it. They also cut me a good deal. They sold me a box of all the scraps left from previous installs. It was enough to do the front doors and held up until I sold the car so 6/7 years later.
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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Would anyone here like to chime in on my post here? It's about deadening my roof - mostly whether I should try to remove the rudimentary factory CLD in place or Resonix over it. I removed the easy stuff, but the "CLD" is stuck on hard.

Roof deadening questions
 

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I'm learning, I done my 1st install and slapped the speakers into the doors and finding it's not the sound I want to end up with, lol. I then I started to add the nvx baffles but found out after a couple of doors that my speakers are out of phase and needing to fix that. This means I took apart a couple of doors twice and will take those apart for the 3rd time. CRAZY.
Now I have a feeling some type of door deadning should have been done the 1st time around when I replaced the speakers. I thought just changing the spearker would be satisficial for my ears but it wasn't. My neighbors must be thinking I'm nuts, OCD or something.

If something or partial application is better than noth'n? Can I get away just covering up the big hole with sound deadner? this looks like a big job. I assume its easier to work with smaller squares vs. long strips?

I just might live without it or I may get the feeling I'd need more of something to get where I want it(hardware), there could be no end, no satisfaction
Having just finished all four doors in my jeep, I would say using smaller pieces was much easier than squeezing large pieces through the door openings and trying to manipulate them during the install. I started off using as large of pieces I could, then decided to start using smaller pieces.

I think it's easier to get the smaller pieces to mold and adhere than using very big pieces.

It's definitely better to do some sound deadening than none! I would install some Dynamat Extreme around the speaker opening on the door along with some right behind the speaker opening on the inner door skin. From there, just installing some 6" x 6" square pieces in a few areas on the inner door skin will make a big difference on vibrations and resonance.
 

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Would anyone here like to chime in on my post here? It's about deadening my roof - mostly whether I should try to remove the rudimentary factory CLD in place or Resonix over it. I removed the easy stuff, but the "CLD" is stuck on hard.

Roof deadening questions
id say dont fight it, just go around it ,cant believe this post got ****ed like it did, but than again,im not surprised, let us know how it all works out for you,
 

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2006 Hyundai Sonata V6
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id say dont fight it, just go around it ,cant believe this post got ****ed like it did, but than again,im not surprised, let us know how it all works out for you,
Thanks. I went over the top of it. Should be all good.
 
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